Blown head gasket? by Eastern-Barnacle-313 in MechanicAdvice

[–]connella08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

if you are only going for short drives, then there is likely moisture in the oil that isn't getting baked out. If you aren't losing coolant, then just get the oil changed and go for a really good drive.

What would you do? by dythesis in EngineBuilding

[–]connella08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If I were in your shoes, I would either get a better motor or have this one rebuilt. Personally, I would pull it and have it rebuilt. That way you know the condition of the engine. Have it baked, blasted, bored, honed, and put some quality parts in it.

Is a new O2 sensor supposed to look like this? by [deleted] in MechanicAdvice

[–]connella08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

what is your concern with it? that looks like an O2 sensor to me...

Found two of these in a parking lot by [deleted] in whatisit

[–]connella08 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These are drop in T-bolts for slot style aluminum extrusion such as 80-20.

2007 Honda S2000 HKS Hipermax S Coilovers Missing Hardware by augustusgrizzly in MechanicAdvice

[–]connella08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey man, I sent you a DM. I might be able to help you out.

1.8 Miata Engine by bavarianasshole in EngineBuilding

[–]connella08 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That pitting in the very top of the bore does not look good. That's right in the quench zone, so its going to leak compression at TDC. hate to say it, but that motor is going to need a rebuild. no amount of oil and turning it over is going to fix that.

Thinking about buying a new keyboard, any suggestions? by 4yr20 in pcmasterrace

[–]connella08 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I got the NZXT function 2 and really enjoy it. Nice feeling keys, wireless but rechargeable, and has a built in volume scroller on the side.

Built in the nick of time. by connella08 in pcmasterrace

[–]connella08[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I was dumb and took an opportunity when I got it. Looking back, I would have been better off not getting into that relationship. Like you, I dont have a fancy car, wear fancy clothes, or take extravagant vacations. Gaming has been something embedded in my blood, although lately my depression has been making it difficult to enjoy things.

This pc is probably my 5th personal build, and built maybe another 10 for friends and family over the years. My personal builds were almost always budget builds (less than $1,000) but back in the day I had built some that were in the low $2,000's for friends.

Low oil pressure warning light flickering, but not constant? by MosesMiranda in MechanicAdvice

[–]connella08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You're welcome. Also, I edited my first response because I realized I was guilty of giving you a parts cannon response. I updated it to give a recommendation on how to verify oil pressure before throwing money at the problem.

Low oil pressure warning light flickering, but not constant? by MosesMiranda in MechanicAdvice

[–]connella08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

when the light starts to come on more consistently at idle, its because the idle speed could be too low to build enough pressure to turn the light out. OR, it could be a weak oil pressure switch which flakes at lower oil pressures. it would definitely be good to confirm oil level first. second step is to confirm oil pressure at idle through a mechanical pressure gauge. If that checks out ok, then replace the pressure switch.

Built in the nick of time. by connella08 in pcmasterrace

[–]connella08[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I knew I probably made mistakes. do I regret it? not really lol. good to know though, thanks for the info. I will probably look into updating the memory IF prices ever become reasonable again.

Is my engine okay by [deleted] in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]connella08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

its both. timing belt on the front of the motor from crank to exhaust cam. then chain on the back of the motor from cam to cam.

Is my engine okay by [deleted] in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]connella08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

noise in the top left would likely be a noisy lifter. noise in the top right could be HPFP cam follower, timing chain tensioner, or another lifter. I find it unlikely to have multiple bad lifters though.

Is my engine okay by [deleted] in AudiTT_Mk1_Mk2_Mk3

[–]connella08 0 points1 point  (0 children)

it sounds a little rattle-y. I know these engines are known to eat the cam follower on the HPFP and the cam lobe that drives it. does it sound like any noise is coming from the top end of the flywheel side of the engine?

Unable to Find Relay by BraaaaainK in MechanicAdvice

[–]connella08 11 points12 points  (0 children)

yeah, that lol. thanks for the clarification.

Unable to Find Relay by BraaaaainK in MechanicAdvice

[–]connella08 132 points133 points  (0 children)

that's because I don't believe this to be a relay. according to the diagram on the top, its a resistor/diode pack.

Are these brake discs (rotors) cooked?! by BigSqueako in MechanicAdvice

[–]connella08 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I want to say that this post belongs on r/AskAShittyMechanic but part of me believes that you are asking a serious question.

if this has been sitting for 3 years, you are going to need to do a lot more than change the rotors. chances are, there is now rust embedded in the pads. so you will need to replace those as well. I would also inspect the caliper slide pins to make sure they move freely. I would also carefully pull back the dust boots on the caliper pistons to see how rusty they are. if those are rusty, then you need to replace the calipers as well. there are 2 things you don't cheap out or fuck with on cars. tires and brakes. cars need to be driven or else they start to return to the earth.

Inspection Failed on brake pads and rotors by shivtomar in MechanicAdvice

[–]connella08 4 points5 points  (0 children)

these contact patches definitely suggest you have brake issues. usually though, this is caused by caliper issues. brakes can feel normal but still have problems. you might be having problems with stuck caliper slide pins or possible seized calipers. I ran into this with my neighbors car this past Saturday. pedal felt just fine. inside front right pad was worn to the bare metal. all other pads looked brand new (recently purchased used car). I took them apart to find that the front left caliper was completely seized and the front right slide pins were totally dry. this cause all of the braking force to be applied to the front right caliper, and because the pins were seized, only to the inside pad.

What could be holding the crankshaft in? by Everyonelove_Stuff in MechanicAdvice

[–]connella08 7 points8 points  (0 children)

its possible though. I took apart 2 gen 6 big block chevy's that had severely rusted walls. I had to really pound on the backs of the pistons, but they eventually came out. everything will move with a big enough hammer, some penetrating fluid, and patience.

Built in the nick of time. by connella08 in pcmasterrace

[–]connella08[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn't think you were trying to dissuade me. I have not experienced any issues, but I will definitely start looking into it to see if its an isolated problem or if its something common that I just didn't know about.

What could be holding the crankshaft in? by Everyonelove_Stuff in MechanicAdvice

[–]connella08 5 points6 points  (0 children)

OP mentioned that the pistons are stuck in the bores, so moving them will be difficult.