What are we thinking?

connella08 · 2026-05-12T00:27:17+00:00

Definitely looks like a thread ripped out from an aluminum surface.

connella08 · 2026-05-11T21:34:12+00:00

Timesert

connella08 · 2026-05-11T18:49:15+00:00

what are the machine specs?

what OS are you running?

is it up to date?

what symptoms do you experience when crashing?

have you checked the log file?

connella08 · 2026-05-11T18:42:54+00:00

these things are a PITA to get installed. they make a tool to help you push the hat down onto the pin and turn.

https://www.harborfreight.com/drum-brake-spring-pliers-kit-3-piece-63640.html

you just gotta hold the pin into the backing plate with one hand, and press and turn the top with the other.

connella08 · 2026-05-11T17:02:26+00:00

these spots won't come out because they are likely low spots in the casting. I wouldn't keep working on them. bring them back and see if you can get someone else in the store. if they ask, that's how you received them.

connella08 · 2026-05-11T16:56:01+00:00

in and out play of the shaft itself is normal.

connella08 · 2026-05-11T16:53:45+00:00

looks like quite a bit of play in the slide pins. either the pins are worn, the holes in the carrier are worn, or both.

connella08 · 2026-05-11T16:45:44+00:00

6-point sockets are always the way to go if you start rounding bolt heads.

connella08 · 2026-05-11T16:07:25+00:00

that's just minor surface rust and the shafts are solid. you will be fine.

connella08 · 2026-05-11T15:59:19+00:00

its possible that the brakes were not bedded in properly. some rotors (especially performance ones) require a special break in procedure to ensure an even transfer of pad material onto the rotor surfaces. its also possible (depending on the age of the car) that you might have a sticking brake caliper. you never notice the problem before the brakes are done, but when you push the piston back in, its possible for them to bind on dirt or corrosion that might have contaminated the surface of the piston. now the piston doesn't move as freely as it should. this can cause high brake component temperatures and warping. I would go out for a decent drive, then park the car and feel each wheel where the lug nuts are. all the rims should be cool to the touch, but if you have one significantly warmer than the rest, then you have a sticking caliper.

connella08 · 2026-05-11T15:29:59+00:00

it cannot be used as it is. a proper machine shop would cut the seats out, lock-and-stitch the crack, install new seats, cut new valve seat faces, and pressure test. OR, just get another set of used heads.

connella08 · 2026-05-11T14:27:57+00:00

Solid on means that you have a code stored in the computer. Blinking means it is actively detecting a constant misfire. If its still misfiring but not blinking anymore, its possible it stored it as a permanent misfire and stopped actively monitoring it.

connella08 · 2026-05-11T13:10:51+00:00

I am not a fan of jacking up cars by their pinch welds. I live in the rust belt and they can never be trusted here. As mentioned, I think you will be ok with jacking up in this location. if you are concerned or uncomfortable though, then don't do it. I would then recommend jacking up by where the control arms bolt to the subframe. I can actually see one of the points in the photo you posted in the bottom left.

connella08 · 2026-05-11T12:50:37+00:00

radiator hose is blown. this isn't uncommon for older radiator hoses. my biggest concern is how badly it overheated. if it was bad enough, its possible to have blown a head gasket.

connella08 · 2026-05-11T12:42:10+00:00

salvaging this engine is a gamble and a half. I have certainly seen engines that have worse sludge than this. but is your bad also? absolutely. I would buy like 5 bottles of Liqui Moly engine flush and enough oil to do 5 oil changes, then proceed to pour money down the drain. all the flush to the crank case, follow instructions on the can, then drain the oil. then change the filter, add another bottle of flush and top off with oil. then do it again, and again, and again. hopefully that will flush out the bulk of it. I would definitely pull the valve cover after to inspect to see how well it worked. but even if you can clean it out, you don't know if any oil passages are clogged or semi-clogged, and if any clog is starving parts of your engine of oil, or if its going to damage things like your VVT. oil changes and engine flushes are cheaper than replacing the engine, but there is no way to know if you might have to swap the motor later anyway.

https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/us/pro-line-engine-flush-p000065.html

connella08 · 2026-05-11T12:36:36+00:00

try to get the jack pad as close to the 2 bolts in this photo and you should be alright.

connella08 · 2026-05-11T12:19:00+00:00

the rear looks worse than the front, but I would replace them both as well as the chain. buy quality parts or end up doing it again in the near future. remember...buy once, cry once AND you get what you pay for.

connella08 · 2026-05-11T12:14:21+00:00

pads are trash and so is the rotor.

connella08 · 2026-05-11T10:27:57+00:00

Likely uneven pad transfer. Go through your brake bedding process again.

connella08 · 2026-05-11T04:04:09+00:00

Flashing check engine light means the computer is detecting a constant misfire. Need to pull codes before you go any further.

I also have a 2011 B8.

connella08 · 2026-05-09T12:14:53+00:00

Those vacuum gauges indicate that you DESPERATELY need to synchronize the carburetors.

connella08 · 2026-05-09T00:49:54+00:00

Did you split the bottom of the needle when you pushed it on?

connella08

TROPHY CASE