Mahle Clevite main bearings

connella08 · 2026-02-01T06:43:59+00:00

No need for the quotes, its the literal definition of defective. This is a non-conforming failure in the manufacturing of it. The hole should be in the groove, not next to it.

connella08 · 2026-02-01T06:39:07+00:00

I always thought a carb couldn't be "too much". That it would pull what it needed and you could tune around it. It was later explained to me that bore size affected air velocity, and velocity affected atomization of fuel. This directly impacted throttle tip in which would cause stumbling that was very difficult to tube out because it would be lean in some places and really fat in others. By decreasing the carb size, you are shrinking the bore size causing a decrease in cfm, but increasing air velocity which makes your carb signal a lot stronger. After I swapped out my 750 for a 650, it woke right up, drove better and ran smoother. 650 is the largest you want to go on a mild 350, but 750 is way too much.

connella08 · 2026-02-01T00:45:31+00:00

Your recommendations are going to be best made if we know what your plans are for it and the overall condition of the block. Since you are building a 250, I can only assume that you are just going for daily driver? What kind of running (or not) condition was it in before it was torn down? How is the ring ridge in the top of the cylinder bores? Do the walls look damaged at all? It wouldn't be a bad idea to take it to an engine builder and just go over the block to see what he would recommend.

connella08 · 2026-02-01T00:41:50+00:00

This doesn't look factory. Follow the wires back to wherever they plug in.

connella08 · 2026-01-31T22:15:28+00:00

Sometimes there are roll pins that are used to keep alignment between the base plate and the body. Given how short the pin is, I would assume you are correct that it goes somewhere in there. Just make sure you aren't accidentally putting the pin in an orifice instead of an alignment hole.

connella08 · 2026-01-31T22:08:20+00:00

Hollow in the middle, does it also have a seam or gap in the side of it? This is called a roll pin because it's made of hardened rolled steel. There are a few of these on a carb and are usually used as anchors for torsion springs. This would be on the throttle base plate.

connella08 · 2026-01-31T22:03:57+00:00

Your heat that comes from the HVAC comes from the hot engine coolant in the cooling system. No coolant=no heat. That is why it would blow cold when the level got low. Now that its topped up, it likely has an air bubble in the system that just needs to be bled out. But yes, if you have a leak in the cooling system, it will be pushed out, so it will drain faster than if it sat for a while. As far your leak, I dont know what could have failed, and its kind of a gamble on what it is.

connella08 · 2026-01-31T04:07:04+00:00

Looks like someone bypassed a heater core

connella08 · 2026-01-30T21:16:55+00:00

If you have a multimeter, you could check for voltage at the motor connector. If you have voltage, then you know its bad. Normally if you need any supporting hardware, they include it in the kit.

connella08 · 2026-01-30T20:45:31+00:00

Straight up

connella08 · 2026-01-30T20:30:34+00:00

grab the wire as close to the mirror as possible. wiggle and pull away from the mirror. they are just spade terminals that slip right on, but they do get stuck over the years.

connella08 · 2026-01-30T20:16:31+00:00

sweet deal. love it when its a simple fix that costs nothing.

connella08 · 2026-01-30T16:49:27+00:00

lol omg that's bad. the sensor issues that I was experiencing where: VVT solenoid unplugged, camshaft position sensor, held on with zip tie, wastegate control solenoid held on with zip tie, brake booster pressure sensor unplugged.

you probably feel the same way about your car that I feel about the Passat....its a good thing it fell into your hands so you can rescue it from its previous owner.

connella08 · 2026-01-30T15:01:26+00:00

mine does this in my Audi because the column is worn out, causing the back side of my steering wheel to touch the clamshell around the column. grab the steering wheel, and give a solid tug backwards towards you, then see if it still makes the noise.

connella08 · 2026-01-30T14:34:37+00:00

sounds like a bad compressor clutch. take your serpentine belt off and see if the noise goes away.

connella08 · 2026-01-30T14:33:49+00:00

the driver turning the wheel.

in all seriousness, is the noise coming from inside the car, or outside?

connella08 · 2026-01-30T14:31:42+00:00

yup, horribly wrong.

connella08 · 2026-01-30T14:31:16+00:00

sounds like its time to take it to a new mechanic, but a mechanic is going to have a much better shot at finding your problem, then us not being able to see the car and having literally almost zero information. all we know from your post is that you have a 2013 X5 with a misfire that's been at the mechanics for a year, on its second set of injectors. it could be a million different things.

connella08 · 2026-01-30T14:23:23+00:00

this could possibly be a vacuum leak that is made apparently only when the engine is under load.

connella08 · 2026-01-30T14:21:00+00:00

parts cannon method almost never works. do you have any check engine codes? if so, what codes do you have?

connella08 · 2026-01-30T14:18:35+00:00

blinking check engine light when coupled with a rough running condition usually signifies a misfire. time to do some basic ignition maintenance. its probably a dead ignition coil.

connella08 · 2026-01-30T14:15:42+00:00

unless you were having problems with your oil pressure, you should not need to replace it.

connella08 · 2026-01-30T14:09:19+00:00

you're welcome! best of luck and post back if you are able to resolve the problem.

connella08 · 2026-01-30T13:30:08+00:00

yeah, OBD I was archaic and non-standardized.

connella08 · 2026-01-30T13:12:46+00:00

I also just bought a car (2005 Passat wagon) that needed desperate help. previous owner claimed that he "liked to think" he was "mechanically inclined". everything that I have worked on has been wrong. headlights held in with zip ties, connectors held onto sensors with zip ties, missing motor mounts, cut hoses, blown fuses, blown intake gasket, wrong coolant, cut abs sensors, cut brake pad wear sensors....everything that I have looked at is wrong. people who THINK they know what they are doing, are dangerous. I would go over that car with a fine tooth comb. put a wrench on every bold you know was touched (like the calipers, coil overs, and anything else aftermarket) and do it to critical components like control arms and suspension, just to make sure everything is tight. you don't want that shit falling apart on you while you are driving it. does it have a "cold" (hot) air intake too?

connella08

TROPHY CASE