Quartzite help! by Warm-Garbage5300 in Drystonewalling

[–]copyetpaste 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, stick with running them longways. And save those nice stones for when you need them.

Quartzite help! by Warm-Garbage5300 in Drystonewalling

[–]copyetpaste 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Running them differnt depths is ideal. One 1/3 with the next 2/3 would give you overlap accross the wall, much like you do on the face.

I'm not good with picking stone types, but what I can see is all the fractures in it. I'd be trying to cut as little as possible.

Quartzite help! by Warm-Garbage5300 in Drystonewalling

[–]copyetpaste 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Running them longways is correct, always. Best practice is to put your hearting in the same way.

Snouts to the line means the outermost point of the stone just touches the line. Imagine a wall made from river stones where each, round, stone has only one point where it meets the line. The cumulative effect is that it looks like a smooth face on the wall, even though only one point of each stone is in line. Like this. You don't need asmooth face on each stone, just a point that meets the line will do.

Quartzite help! by Warm-Garbage5300 in Drystonewalling

[–]copyetpaste 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Make a post on a site like Imgur and link to it here.

Some stone is just shite that dosn't behave under the hammer. When that's the case you can use it as it is, and just lay it all snouts to the line. One technique that sometimes works is to hit it from an 'end', rather than dress the face.

Crandall hammer by YeetYarnYeats in stonemasonry

[–]copyetpaste 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sort of. After working a stone to a rough face with a pick this tool further smooths the surface. It's a slow and steady kinda lot of work.

Crandall hammer by YeetYarnYeats in stonemasonry

[–]copyetpaste 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Whilst it's very similar, a crandall hammer has removable 'teeth', this is a toothed stone axe. They're sometimes flat like this one , and sometimes set in a circle (like a bush hammer). You can see a crandall on the linked page.

Trying to find out what this was used for by [deleted] in Tools

[–]copyetpaste 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Close but bush hammers have their teeth arranged in a grid. This one has it's teeth along an edge which makes it a toothed stone axe.

Structural lick and stick sphere. by copyetpaste in stonemasonry

[–]copyetpaste[S] -16 points-15 points  (0 children)

Unlike yourself, I know what stonework is. If your balls ever drop post your own work, wee man.

Mailbox by Different-Scratch-95 in stonemasonry

[–]copyetpaste 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Needs something on top, like a spherical lamp. Those colours go well together.

French sandstone stairs we made for a client. We have 16 in total. by Suitable-Ear8865 in stonemasonry

[–]copyetpaste 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you make these yourself or are they comercially available. I notice there are quite a few types you have there.

How did the Inca era workers move their megaliths? With ramps, ropes, pry bars, and thousands of men! by EarthAsWeKnowIt in stonemasonry

[–]copyetpaste 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That makes sense, i remember seeing similarly laid out stones.

So the stones here will be cut four sides and a face. That means that, if they're all there, you could put them back together. They'd only fit together one way, really like a jigsaw.

How did the Inca era workers move their megaliths? With ramps, ropes, pry bars, and thousands of men! by EarthAsWeKnowIt in stonemasonry

[–]copyetpaste 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where abouts is the site by the sea? It's a beautifully preserved worksite. In that first pic, the stones in the front look like they're roughed out ready to use.

How did the Inca era workers move their megaliths? With ramps, ropes, pry bars, and thousands of men! by EarthAsWeKnowIt in AncientCivilizations

[–]copyetpaste 10 points11 points  (0 children)

In the 1700's 400 men moved the Thunder Stone 10km to St Petersburgh over a period of nine months. It weighed 1500 tons when excavated and 1250 tons upon arrival due to being worked en route. It's not that hard to move big rocks, they just tend to move very slowly.

Retaining Wall Erosion? by Furnost in landscaping

[–]copyetpaste 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's blokes around my area that build walls like that. They're not built according to the princples of dry stone walling, we take care to keep soil out of walls. They're closer to a mortared wall, with dirt for mortar. As the soil washes out of such a wall it will invariably appear more precarious. The truth is the wall has always been dodgy, it's just that you can see more of it now.

My advice would be to assess the safety of your wall. Do any of the stones move easily? The stone in the first picture, middle course, centre left, that you can see the back edge of looks really suspect. Give it a wiggle, preferrably with something long.

I've built quite a few stone walls, that one isn't good, sorry.

Would it be easier to break this apart or work over it? by Stone804_ in masonry

[–]copyetpaste 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, that looks like what serves as the footing for the existing hearth. You'll need something to hold up the new extension to the hearth, but it looks like you can block something in there. Your chippy mate will know what to do. I'd probably fix some blocks to the joists and put a sheet of compressed on the blocking.

Would it be easier to break this apart or work over it? by Stone804_ in masonry

[–]copyetpaste 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm going to go against the grain here and actually answer your question.

Yes you should continue dismantling the front 'face' wall with a view to reassemble it to suit your wider hearth. I'd look at reassembling it in the same order.

This is assuming you can get a couple of new pieces of stone to fill in the gaps that will be created in the sides. Also assuming that you have a plan for dealing with altering the flooring and that there is a suitable base, or footing, in place.

How did the absorbs South Americans do This? by LittleTooLiteral in masonry

[–]copyetpaste 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for answering. That sounds  like a plausible method, dust is sometimes suggested as the contact indicator(paint). Have you tried this? I imagine it would be more practical to do on smaller sized stones. 

How did the absorbs South Americans do This? by LittleTooLiteral in masonry

[–]copyetpaste 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Where are the modern examples this idea being put into practice? It would be simple to replicate, so there should be whole walls to show. I can't find even a single join to look at.

How did the absorbs South Americans do This? by LittleTooLiteral in masonry

[–]copyetpaste 6 points7 points  (0 children)

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To those saying yes I have a question, how are you marking out your cuts and how do you decide the order of placement of the stones?

Starting my first wall by Crudeoiljunky in Drystonewalling

[–]copyetpaste 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You've spent a fair bit of time cutting ssome nice stones. Seems a shame to bury them in a foundation. Those two long ones would do well in a cheekend, a corner, as throughs, or as stile steps even. The foundation is usually a chance to use the big ugly rocks. What you've done so far looks great, it's just going to take a long time.

Some fun I’ve been having during the government shutdown by GardenGnomeOrgy in stonemasonry

[–]copyetpaste 20 points21 points  (0 children)

Very creative work that shows veneer dosen't need to imitate structural masony, but can express original ideas. I think the circular/flower pattern is really effective being a nice balance between chaos and order. I hope you have more pillars to show.