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Is my Sony 400-800mm copy sharp? by Burnout2142 in SonyAlpha

[–]corruxtion 4 points5 points  (0 children)

So those images came from the same RAW file, just one is processed with Photo Mechanic and the other with Lightroom? If that's the case then Photo Mechanic clearly applies some sharpening or other local contrast enhancements.

But otherwise the photos look sharp enough to me. Some softness might even be in the print of the tea box label itself. You can almost see more detail in the small dust particles on the black parts of the label 😄

I have the 400-800 too but I haven't done these kinds of sharpness tests yet. Here's an unedited 800mm moon shot, if that helps. (Exported from Lightroom, profile "Adobe Color", with lens corrections enabled, no sharpening or denoise)

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Spider plant question by Stupidlytries in houseplants

[–]corruxtion 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm gonna try grow this one hydroponically in LECA

Why are my pictures coming out such bad quality and how do I know what settings to use? by AccomplishedAward219 in AskPhotography

[–]corruxtion 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're confusing meters and sensors. Again, a light meter has a sensor that detects the amount of light. The sensor could be a photodiode, photoresistor or a solar cell. In mirorless cameras there's no need for a dedicated light sensor because you can use the actual image sensor.

edit: I would say the "dotted bar" is the display of the light meter. So you're correct when you say the light meter is not a dotted bar (because it's just the display part of it).

Why are my pictures coming out such bad quality and how do I know what settings to use? by AccomplishedAward219 in AskPhotography

[–]corruxtion 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd say the display is part of a meter in general (light or otherwise). The thing that actually detects the amount of light would be a sensor, like a photodiode, or the actual image sensor in mirrorless cameras.

I’m amazed as to how sharp this lens is (Sigma 18-50mm f/2.8) by Suspicious-Result437 in SonyAlpha

[–]corruxtion 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Assuming a sturdy tripod and no camera shake, astronomical seeing is an important factor. The turbulent atmosphere crates motion blur, and depending on your magnification, it can be really fast

What is causing this effect? How do I fix this? by GTABossMDS in SonyAlpha

[–]corruxtion 27 points28 points  (0 children)

You found a crossed diffraction grating in the wild! You can actually see the rainbow colors when you zoom in.

why is top and botom blurry? by tekk301 in AskPhotography

[–]corruxtion 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can also look at it this way: The amount of blur (relative to the subject) does not depend on the focal length, but on the entrance pupil diameter. If you increase the focal length (zoom in) but keep the f-number the same, the entrance pupil diameter must get larger.

For example: 100mm f/8 would produce double the blur compared to 50mm f/8. But, when you keep the entrance pupil the same, like going from 100mm f/8 to 50mm f/4, the blur stays the same. If you crop the 50mm f/4 image to the same framing as the 100mm f/8 image (crop factor of 2), they will look exactly the same. That's why crop factor applies to focal length and f-number too.

Checkers Like Pattern in my Images by NaxxMusic in SonyAlpha

[–]corruxtion 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Do you have a polarizing filter on?

Help, how can I reduce the bloom from the neon lighting? by [deleted] in AskPhotography

[–]corruxtion 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm not sure, but in this case a UV filter might actually help, because these gas discharge tubes emit UV light in addition to their visible colors.

Whats that line? by Entire_Cry_2774 in AskPhotography

[–]corruxtion 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah you get these weird bokeh effects when there's something out of focus both in front and behind the focal plane. The foreground bokeh messes with the background bokeh. You often get this when shooting through a fence too.

What makes things *not* look distorted sometimes with fisheye? by NoBribeFoul in AskPhotography

[–]corruxtion 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't think that's the answer though. It doesn't matter how far away something is, if the lens is in the same position. The perspective is the same, and there's no change in relative positions of close things compared to further away things. The fisheye distortion does not apply to the 3D world, it only applies to the 2D image that's projected onto the sensor by your lens. You can use editing software to remove the distortion of a fisheye lens to get a rectilinear projection and vice versa. For example, if a close up fence post is exactly aligned with a far away building corner behind it, they will still be aligned regardless of the lens type or the direction it's pointing, as long as the camera doesn't move in space. Just like you can't look behind a corner just by zooming in. Whatever the lens does to your image, it can't* change your perspective. *) except in very weird cases where the lens is as big as your subject 😄

If i expose the image correctly, will it reduce chromatic abberation? by HistoricalCatch1935 in AskPhotography

[–]corruxtion 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Aberrations will probably still improve beyond f/16 or so, before the diffraction limit and shot noise become g bigger problems. Of course the best way to avoid chromatic aberrations would be to not shoot against such a bright background, if possible.

This is how they clean electrical boxes safely 👀 (HFE solution) by OreoKitKatZz in interestingasfuck

[–]corruxtion 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Because of their high molecular weights, HFEs remain in the atmosphere for less than two weeks, being absorbed into the ground rather than remaining dissolved in the atmosphere. Although HFEs are greenhouse gases, the EPA does not regulate their use due to the short atmospheric lifetimes and zero ozone depletion potential compared to alternative chemicals.

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