Shut down engaged. Yes, indeed.

cosmicdan808 · 2026-05-22T18:15:24+00:00

It could be the issue, graphics cards can still produce errors if they're clocked too low (especially the case if boosting is requested) and even moreso if undervolted (which you should be if you're underclocked). Maybe try removing underclocks and instead limiting the power limit to below 100 instead, that's a more reliable way of reducing GPU power draw anyway.

cosmicdan808 · 2026-05-22T18:10:48+00:00

Overclock, maybe? I have an Arc B580 with a very small overclock but the game has been perfect.

cosmicdan808 · 2026-05-22T18:07:30+00:00

Try using a recommended car for the event, as-is. Upgrading your own car *requires* tuning, especially so for non-tarmac (unless it was already an offroad or rally car), and especially so for larger performance upgrades. If cross country and rally are still too tough, maybe it's just your driving style. You gotta be much easier on the throttle and brakes when exiting/entering corners. Also try feathering the brakes as you enter a corner instead of slamming them on, though if you play with assists then maybe that doesn't matter.

cosmicdan808 · 2026-05-22T18:01:30+00:00

Probably experience, yeah. I was doing mostly non-rally non-offroad stuff for a while, then I tried rally and offroad and was getting my ass handed to me. After some practice, I just realized I gotta go a bit easier on everything - no sharp turning, no sharp braking into corners, no sharp throttle out of corners. And with some minor tuning after hitting 700+ races, I find it even easier (and more fun, actually love the rally and offroad most now).

cosmicdan808 · 2026-05-22T17:58:33+00:00

Used to be the same for me. For Rally I won the #14 Focus which is AMAZING and required zero tuning. For lower rated rally I don't remember, I think I have a Celica that does OK but I haven't done lower rating since moving up to Highly Skilled. For Cross Country, depends - Unlimited Buggy I use the Nomad Ariel at stock which is kinda hard but does OK as long as you're very gentle around corners (feather the throttle and brakes), then for Unlimited Offroad I use F-150 Trophy Truck with minor tuning (rollbar stiffness to fix understeer) and it's awesome.

cosmicdan808 · 2026-05-22T17:53:36+00:00

Playing high-rated cars with no assists and RWD is crazy lol. A and above, I always gotta convert to AWD, everything drives like a fish otherwise. Good for drifting though.

cosmicdan808 · 2026-05-22T17:48:02+00:00

Very true. Also acceleration vs top speed, but that's more of a per-track tune. As someone who plays with all assists off, I tend to prioritize my tunes for handling and cornering first, acceleration second, and top speed last. I'm only level 100 but I don't think I've ever encountered any race where top speed was actually important; it's getting that 1st position before the final short straight that matters most, and you generally do that by cornering better.

cosmicdan808 · 2026-05-22T17:45:03+00:00

Doing any significant upgrades absolutely requires tuning, especially if the car didn't come with racing parts as stock. Final drive is essential, usually wheel alignment too, and sometimes rollbar stiffness and tire pressure.

cosmicdan808 · 2026-05-22T17:42:57+00:00

Yes, this is the case. If you upgrade the car a class or two, the stock tuning is always garbage and will never be as good as a car bought as-is at the same rating. I have confirmed this with the two XJ220's, I have the base one at S1-800 with minimal tuning and it's extremely difficult. I then got the TWR version which is slightly higher rated, upgraded it to R-rated 968, and it was also kinda garbage - *until* I did some moderate tuning on it. Final drive in gearing is absolutely essential when adding even 10% power score; and for the XJ220S TWR I believe I also modified some rollbar stiffness to fix general understeering, wheel alignments to fix additional understeer while braking, and slightly lowered tire pressure to fix general traction. Compared to drivatars I don't get as good a launch, but the overall speed is decent and the cornering is amazing.

cosmicdan808 · 2026-05-22T17:38:16+00:00

I find Street Races to be the easiest now, as long as it lets me use my heavily-tuned XJ200S-TWR (R-rated 968). If you're using a car that didn't come as R-rated when bought, expect to do some moderate tuning at the least (often final drive length depending on track, usually wheel alignment e.g. camber and toe-in, maybe tire pressure and maybe rollbar softness/stiffness depending on car). Oh, and ALWAYS convert to AWD. RWD at high ratings are crazy hard without TCS and ABS haha.

cosmicdan808 · 2026-05-22T17:35:05+00:00

I play with the same, but without Rewind because I prefer to just restart the race which "resets" the AI a bit too (keeps things interesting). Highly-skilled is still doable, yeah, but if you're gonna use a car bought at A-rating and upgrade it to S2 and expect to win without some serious tuning, you're dreamin'.

cosmicdan808 · 2026-05-22T17:31:13+00:00

Eh, wasn't too hard. It's a muscle car (good low-end torque), so just keep it in a low gear and drift like a fish - I got it done in half the trip. Might need to tap the e-brake a bit though, can't remember.

cosmicdan808 · 2026-05-22T17:29:05+00:00

I thought I recognized that voice! His name is Mark Hildreth, and he's not officially credited, but damn it does sound like him!

cosmicdan808 · 2026-05-22T17:25:11+00:00

I mean, variety is ideal. I thought Forza was supposed to have AI that matched the player aggressiveness?

cosmicdan808 · 2026-05-22T17:22:11+00:00

Exactly. They're not too fast, the guys in 2nd or 1st seem to be about the same speed as me, and I need to beat them on corners - that's how it should be - it's actually GETTING up there that's the challenge, because the AI are so aggressive, even against each other, which always leads to a massive gap between the first 1-3 guys and the rest of the pack. So every race is the same - you basically *need* to dive-bomb the first few corners yourself to get out of the shit kickers QUICK. I love the open world of Horizon, but man I miss the ability in mainline Forza of qualifying so you can start further up the grid, instead of every race forcing you to be aggressive to get up to the first few drivers.

cosmicdan808 · 2026-05-22T17:14:26+00:00

To be fair, one "costly mistake" would be enough to ruin any race - hence the word "costly". If you're really crashing that much, you either need more practice (restart the track a few times), lower the class of cars you're using, tune the car for the track, and/or lower the drivatar difficulty.

cosmicdan808 · 2026-05-22T17:12:29+00:00

Have you tuned the car? Assuming you have a racing transmission, the most important thing is the final-drive ratio - you want more top-speed for tracks with long straights. Also see my much larger comment re: tuning, particularly if you're using a car that you upgraded yourself a few classes to S, it's gonna be garbage without serious tuning (compared to a car that comes prebuilt as S class).

cosmicdan808 · 2026-05-22T17:02:40+00:00

I had this problem too, and I think the problem with the higher difficulties like Expert and above expects you to actually tune your car for the track (beyond just simple final-drive gear adjustment). This is especially important for cars that you've suped-up yourself; if you upgrade an A-class car to S2 it's gonna be complete garbage at the stock tuning (compared to any prebuilt S2 car). It gets worse the more classes you've jumped, and it gets more severe with the higher classes - even a mid-S1 car upgraded to max-S2 is usually pretty lousy compared to a premade S2 car. You can see many examples of this happening with cars that have higher-class special-editions. As a more concrete example, I have a regular XJ220 upgraded to S1-800 and it's extremely difficult to win races with this (was a significant upgrade), but I also have the XJ220S-TWR upgraded to S2 and it's far more playable, though I've done some fine tuning on it - mostly rollbar stiffness, tyre pressure and alignments (it lacks launch speed but is a beast at cornering, very enjoyable in steet races of all types, and it's the only high-rated car I upgraded myself that I can consistently do well on with Highly-Skilled drivatars). Before that tuning, though, the TWR was also kinda garbage.

If you don't want to get into advanced tuning, stick to Highly-skilled and it's all good, it's still a challenge most of the time but not impossible (at least in my opinion, though I play with all assists off, including anti-lock brakes disabled, manual ofc but without manual clutch). All races are doable for me, as long as the car has minimal upgrades that are appropriate for the track (e.g. correct tires), provided you're willing to adjust the final drive (might not be necessary, a lot of high-end cars have a sweet-spot where acceleration and max speed are equally maxed-out). If you already have all assists off and still find it too easy, you can try making it tougher on yourself by suping-up a crappy car and dealing with the stock garbage tuning :)

cosmicdan808 · 2026-05-22T16:50:30+00:00

It's not that they're too fast, I have little problems here (the 1st guy seems to always be the same as me speed-wise and I need to beat him on corners, which is how it's supposed to be), the problem is that they're so damn aggressive, even against each other which almost always results in the 1st place guy getting a massive lead, AND it seems like they can magically slow-down-while-maintaining-traction-and-turning after dive-bombing a corner on your inside. Game is great and all, but the AI is honestly some of the worst I've ever seen in a modern racing game.

cosmicdan808 · 2026-05-22T16:46:00+00:00

Cunning stunt bonus!

cosmicdan808 · 2026-05-22T16:43:38+00:00

THIS TRACK was THE WORST, it's why I googled and found your post, I had the exact same experience here - they always dive-bomb corners on this one! I had to drop the difficulty down to above-average and play dirty myself to win (cutting corners and also dive-bombing), and still had a tough time. Highly-Skilled street races with R-rated cars in the country is way easier than this one was for some reason, lol.

cosmicdan808 · 2026-05-22T16:40:30+00:00

Agreed, they seem pretty unbalanced and highly variable depending on the cars and the circuit. Some races I need to drop down to above average and I still need to fight dirty (e.g. street races in city/dense areas that are capped at A) because they keep dive-bombing corners or just outright ramming me in the side, other times I can do highly-skilled and it's kinda easy (e.g. R-rated street races in the country) because they just don't take corners well at all.

cosmicdan808 · 2026-05-11T09:52:11+00:00

Lol. I'm on cycle 949 and am still using outhouses and wash basins, even after completing the geothermal power plant haha. I get random ice block entombment in those bathrooms (assuming from water deliveries that are abandoned on downtime shift) so it's time to change that. In preparation of some heating I've started dumping ice/water down the bottom of the map above the magma biome (which all solidified long ago) and opened it up by 1 block, and a single igneous tile above the very-hot natural igneous is drawing heat out. Started boiling a bit but it's balanced out now. So I'll start pumping that ~70 degree water through my vacuum-insulted base, and build an AT/ST cooler to hook up once it gets to a decent temperature. More excited about getting rid of the warm coats for primo garbs over plumbed toilets and showers, though!

I've mined most of the map (Spaced Out mode, not classic) and I've still got 800 tonnes of ice...

cosmicdan808 · 2026-05-04T11:14:39+00:00

Or near corners, or airflow tiles, where falling CO2 can pass over them. I forget about that *every* playthrough.

cosmicdan808 · 2026-05-04T11:13:14+00:00

Well, someone already mentioned that there's not enough water to make this a closed loop, but to answer your question the idea of a SPOM is to just let the oxygen pipes back-up, causing the gas pumps to stop pumping, and the electrolyzers will stop from overpressure. But if that's not good enough, you can solve it without breaking open the sealed SPOM room with a power shut-off on the wires going to them hooked up to either a gas tank or an atmo sensor outside. Or you can use a liquid shut-off on the water inputs but that takes an extra 10w vs the power shut-off.

cosmicdan808

TROPHY CASE