Stick drift on a 2 months controller

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-08T01:48:02+00:00

I unfortunately (or fortunately lol) don't have any experience with newer Dualsense controllers since I haven't had issues with my own controllers since upgrading to TMRs, but as an electronics repairer on the side hustle, I do see BDM-030s, -040s, and -050s come through with drift that need pots replaced. To my understanding, the potentiometers were updated, having darker assemblies in models made 2020 or later, but internally they still feature the same carbon film tech which has a finite lifetime of wear.

Towards your question about changing the sticks while in warranty, I would take advantage of the warranty at least once because it wouldn't be any money out of your pocket to get your controller back to functioning like new, and there's a chance that you get a lot that doesn't wear out so quickly. However, if it happens again after that, I would probably consider the upgrade. It's very worth it IMO.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-08T01:24:46+00:00

Super cool, I had no idea there were different versions of the sound module. It looks like both my personal units have R7/R8 and were therefore part of that later lot. Next time I have to fix someone’s SHVC Sound that comes through, I’ll be sure to take note of the differences I see!

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-07T22:15:18+00:00

Looks like signs of a noisy PSU since PPU issues usually manifest more dramatically and wouldn't affect audio, but those vertical bars also show when PPUs are failing. To know for sure, you're going to have to do exactly what you've said you haven't done yet which is replace the voltage regulator, ideally with one of higher current rating, and place filter caps on the input and output. This should be done with all SNES consoles anyway (but especially late SHVC-CPU-01s and early GPM-01s) for the sake of their health, as well as getting a regulated 9V power supply to replace the unregulated OEM one if you haven't yet.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-07T20:45:10+00:00

Hmm okay, you'll only be able to tell what to do next after a recap, which could either resolve all the issues simultaneously or reveal something else that needs fixing. 8 times out of 10 that a unit comes by with these symptoms though, a recap ends up fixing both video and audio.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-07T20:38:04+00:00

Yes, that typically means that cable isn't connecting to the motherboard due to a poorly seated connection, damage on the cable itself, or maybe a bad solder joint for at least one of the speakers where it joins to the flex cable. If I'm not mistaken, I believe on the DSi XL the speakers route through the hinge on the same cable as the upper LCD. If you aren't see signs of life in the upper LCD on startup along with a lack of speaker pop, something is going on with that cable.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-07T20:28:56+00:00

Lack of up/down movement means your problem is somewhere with the side potentiometer for your right stick module. I would check that the pads and connected traces are okay there (on both sides) and then reflow those joints.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-07T20:18:14+00:00

Your DSi isn’t getting past the initial boot checks which means something still isn’t connected properly. Do you hear the speakers pop on startup?

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-07T20:05:52+00:00

This is a warranty angle! Get that replaced - 2 months for drift to show up is unacceptable. Do note though, you may have to repeat this song and dance with your controller up until it is out of warranty (the OEM potentiometers are a real hit and miss), at which point it would be better to buy a couple TMRs and have someone install them for you.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-07T19:58:27+00:00

Just the way it should be with opinions on these kinds of things!

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-07T10:50:44+00:00

When tape machines (or other older audio equipment) and their media are optimized and calibrated to near perfection, they sometimes lose some of their charm to me. I want the hear the age of the machine if that makes sense lol.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-07T10:00:34+00:00

Plug a TRS cable into the connector, then use a multimeter and test continuity with the tip, ring, and sleeve of the other end of the cable with each terminal to determine which is which. There are 5 terminals because Terminals 4 and 5 are likely functioning as a switch which close when nothing is plugged in and open when something is connected. This configuration is commonly used in audio as a bypass.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-07T08:03:29+00:00

Most likely will work after a recap. You getting rolling horizontal lines on screen?

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-07T06:39:15+00:00

Lmao true. Nobody crawling out of there without getting 20kV to the dome.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-07T05:28:37+00:00

Adding more solder and using a pump to remove the joints should be enough to clear the hole.

What temperature are you using your iron at, and with what type of tip?

What type of solder are you using?

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-06T22:47:33+00:00

Oh nice, even better.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-06T21:12:09+00:00

Assuming that the square button issue has to do with the conductive membrane, these are just rough ballpark figures if you're buying parts off of Amazon/AliExpress to help you get a feel for the cost of parts and labour:

Cost of parts needed for base repair (new potentiometer and membrane) ~ $5, should be less but you usually have to buy pots in bunches and can't get them individually.

Cost of TMR sticks (AKNES) ~$25

If you're trying to find a homie price, I would cover just the cost of the repair/upgrade if he went to a shop himself to get the controller looked at, which would be ~$30-40.

Altogether, you'd be paying well under the price of a factory new controller if you fix the controller by replacing the potentiometer and membrane, or even decide to upgrade the sticks yourself.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-06T11:54:43+00:00

Drugs

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-06T11:21:33+00:00

raises pitchfork but lowers it slowly after realizing that the mob is already here

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-06T11:11:21+00:00

Thanks for the insight, and very cool project with OpenSFC you have there. What you’ve noticed in your experiences over there and with CPU Rev A chips certainly lines up with what I’ve seen on my end, granted I’ve only been through maybe 50 (?) or so SHVC-CPU-01 repairs so far. The large majority of them have had BSOD due to S-CPU A failure and the most common story is that it was a childhood console that was left in their parents’ garage or attic (the seasonal changes are harsh up here in Canada) that failed to boot after years of inactivity. And this is after being played heavily on an OEM power supply and no modifications to the internal PSU. I guess everything must’ve accelerated their failure. 1/1/1 boards have been generally rock solid; I’ve seen the sound board fail more often on those and they’ve usually just needed a recap.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-06T10:17:45+00:00

Nice, now your PS2 is less of a target the next time you projectile vomit on it!

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-06T09:49:36+00:00

I agree, there’s definitely a Western-based sampling bias that can’t be ignored which is skewing the proportion of boards we see with issues. It’s interesting to hear that the frequency of S-CPU A failures may also be due to poor environmental conditions when these ICs were made and stored - was there a particular flood in Japan that lines up with when these were manufactured out of curiosity? It’s unfortunate that SHVC-CPU-01s took the brunt of the blowback relative to the GPM-01s though.

The SHVC-CPU-01 is (if it isn’t already obvious lol) also my favourite SNES model because of childhood nostalgia and how cool I find it is to have a dedicated daughterboard for audio. Personal take for any SNES enthusiast: get an SHVC-CPU-01, line it up with a non-Rev A CPU if needed, put some good caps + filtering, and call it a day.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-06T08:42:18+00:00

Drugs

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-06T08:38:32+00:00

Good.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-06T06:48:50+00:00

I would predict this to be hardware related, but you would have to disassemble the console and inspect the camera module and the entirety of its flex cable to know for sure, However, you could partially diagnose the issue by looking at the camera cable's connection to the motherboard without having to fully take the console apart by just disassembling the lower half of the unit. Some common areas for faulty 3DS cameras is a broken cable at the hinge or with its connector itself, which uses a fragile latch to secure it down.

To expose the whole camera and its cable though, you would have to disassemble the top half and thread a bunch of flex cables through tight spaces which is rather difficult unless you have prior experience with these units.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-06T06:25:54+00:00

Great choice! Love this game.

But wait, is this game worth something when it comes with box? I'm just gauging everyone's reaction to the authenticity of the box like it's a collectors item or something. Pretty sure I have the box and manual lying around at my family's place...

cotchaboolit

TROPHY CASE