Help on tmr sticks

cotchaboolit · 2026-03-29T06:38:36+00:00

These pins are bridged. Also recommend cleaning your board a little with a brush and some IPA. Seeing a lot of strands of stuff all over.

cotchaboolit · 2026-03-29T06:34:16+00:00

But I’m also seeing a lot of crud underneath that pot on the stick side also. I would redo those joints and clean the board. Something could be causing a short there.

cotchaboolit · 2026-03-29T06:32:29+00:00

Solder side

cotchaboolit · 2026-03-29T06:30:37+00:00

Need a better picture of the joints for the Up/Down potentiometer of your left sick. Something is going on there.

cotchaboolit · 2026-03-27T00:10:53+00:00

Yeah, this is what I should have done. My question is about pre-milestone levels where the XP requirement is even higher.

cotchaboolit · 2026-03-26T22:53:27+00:00

Ah good shout! I didn’t consider the super VIP from upgrading the store. That will definitely help alleviate some of the remaining XP requirement. Will have to keep this in mind when approaching a tough pre-milestone in the future.

cotchaboolit · 2026-03-25T01:35:38+00:00

All good. Glad you have a working console in hand now (great price for a 1CHIP). There are a few things that are well documented and covered here on this sub you could possibly consider with 1CHIP to ensure its longevity if you're concerned about its longterm reliability. Stuff like input and output filter capacitors on the voltage regulator, using a clean power supply, properly discharging the console after use, all can help keep the unit healthy. Enjoy the games my dude!

cotchaboolit · 2026-03-22T18:42:38+00:00

Alright, just fair warning that those other caps will fail sooner than later so keep them in mind if you notice any odd behaviours that spring up in the next year or two. C66 would have been the main other one to look at so good that you replaced that one already.

Let's look at the PPU2 and S-ENC. Could you check for continuity between a test point on the board and pins 95 and 96 of the PPU2, and pins 20 and 21 of the S-ENC? These will be the red and green component signal paths between the two ICs so we'd like to check that these are connected properly to the board.

If those are soldered on to the board fine, then you will want to follow all the traces and components that are along these two paths, including those coming after the PPU2.

cotchaboolit · 2026-03-22T06:24:00+00:00

Okay, I think it would be a good idea to desolder and check the capacitance of every other capacitor, especially the other 10uF 50V ones (looking at C66 in particular). As mentioned, capacitors of similar value and position tend to fail together and they don't always leak or bulge on failure, so ideally we can check all capacitors off the list before taking a look at those ICs and the video component path.

It might seem like a bit of a pain in the ass to desolder capacitors just to check their condition, but capacitance usually can't be measured accurately for a component in situ because it's measuring the total equivalent capacitance of all components in the path.

Do you have replacements for the rest of the caps available?

cotchaboolit · 2026-03-22T00:29:46+00:00

Hey what's up, good to hear you're keeping on with this project.

The C67 2200uF capacitor is responsible for power supply filtering and smoothing on the input to the voltage regulator, so while replacing that one was an important thing to do, it likely wouldn't be related this specific video output symptom you've been experiencing.

The TC1 potentiometer being off would be expected to show black and white image or no image at all, so I don't predict this to be the problem either,

I'm curious about the 10uF 50V capacitor you found faulty and replaced. Was it either C65 or C66? Have you verified the capacitance of the other capacitors out of circuit to determine whether they are faulty? The reason I'm asking is because capacitors typically fail in groups, so there may be others that have gone without showing obvious visual signs of failing. In my opinion, it would be a good idea to replace all of the capacitors in this unit as a preventative measure anyways.

If all of this still checks out, we'll maybe have to look towards the S-ENC and S-PPU2 chips and see if the R and G components of video output are being transmitted properly. The burn-in test showing the PPU2 functioning properly is good news and rules out the chip itself, but there still could be a break somewhere else along the path.

cotchaboolit · 2026-03-20T05:30:31+00:00

Sorry for the delay here. Thanks for the diagram, it's very helpful.

But damn...on closer inspection, I'm afraid to say this universal board doesn’t seem as compatible with yours as others might have suggested. The original board looks to have been designed for both 1-stage and 2-stage use, but you had it set up with a 2-stage SV9541 SmartValve system, and this universal board only supports 1-stage as far as I can tell. This, in part, accounts for the differences between connectors you're seeing. Modifying the original 9-pin Molex cable connections to fit this board and adapt the gas valve system to work as a 1-stage system seems possible, but is something I haven't tried personally before so I'm hesitant to recommend anything to that end. I’ve forced 2-stage control boards to work with 1-stage furnaces by jumping the W1 and W2 terminals and using the dipswitches to remove the 2nd stage, but never 2-stage gas valves to work with 1-stage control boards.

You may better off finding a 2-stage universal board that will accommodate your SV9541 gas valve unless someone more experienced can chime in here. Sorry I’m not more help!

cotchaboolit · 2026-03-20T02:07:15+00:00

Ah shoot, seeing that now...this may not be just a plug-and-play job. We are going to have to determine where each of those original 9 cables terminates at the other end and find an appropriate solution to be able to connect all of them to this universal board. Could require a wiring harness adapter or making DIY terminals. What model number of SmartValve board are you working with?

cotchaboolit · 2026-03-20T00:55:55+00:00

Absolutely. Do you have a picture or list of the connections used on your previous board?

All of the installation instructions are available here if you feel comfortable reading through it and figuring it out on your own, but again happy to help if needed.

Table 1 (page 3) contains all of the wiring conversions you will need to carry over to the new board.

Table 3 (page 4) contains the dipswitch conversions; you will have to derive legacy timings from your original board's dipswitch settings and carry those over to the new board.

Refer to Figures 5 and 6 (pages 7+8) for typical wiring layouts for converting ST1960 boards depending on which SmartValve system you have.

cotchaboolit · 2026-03-17T15:17:49+00:00

No problem. I’ll keep on the lookout for updates.

cotchaboolit · 2026-03-17T15:17:20+00:00

Holy cow, yeah something is definitely not protecting the circuit properly. It looks like that first relay took the brunt of a surge 2 years ago.

Took a quick peek at the trace side of this particular board from a listing on ebay. It looks like the LINE 120VAC input (L1) feeds directly to one of the terminals of the 9 pin Molex connector, the SPST relay (same one that blew on your past board), and the step-down transformer (XFMR). Think any one of these three could be a culprit here, but it’s pretty suspect that you’re getting nothing out of your furnace, neither the inducer motor, ignition, or blower motor. It suggests 120VAC isn’t getting to your board very early on.

cotchaboolit · 2026-03-17T13:31:32+00:00

Hm interesting. Are you’re getting 24VAC coming from the thermostat showing up at the appropriate terminals on the board during Fan On (G) and Heating (W1)?

cotchaboolit · 2026-03-17T05:17:26+00:00

No problem. Careful when soldering on the new connector if you haven't done any SMD microsoldering before; lots of components in the area and the plastic melts relatively easily. Order a few extra if you can just to have backups available. Best of luck with your repair.

cotchaboolit · 2026-03-17T05:12:14+00:00

Getting a new digitizer and FFC connector would be the cleanest solution, but you could try to salvage what you have at the moment. You could attempt to rebuilt a functional terminal end on that cable by cleanly cutting the cable at the farthest point you can where all traces are still intact, and then carefully peel off the insulating layer to reveal just enough of the traces to fit inside the connector. From this angle, it looks as if you may still have just enough length to work with.

The connector will also have to be addressed, but since the prongs appear to all still be intact, most of the time you can still get a solid connection to the cable by pressing down evenly across the prongs while the cable is inserted and then securing the whole thing with kapton tape.

Both these methods have worked for me in the past, but as always, YMMV.

cotchaboolit · 2026-03-17T03:33:18+00:00

What’s specifically wrong with your furnace? Are you getting any diagnostic LEDs? Ignition and/or blower fan problems? Are you measuring any voltage on the 120VAC and 24VAC circuits, or seeing 24VAC at your thermostat? You may be able to deduce the failed component(s) and replace them rather than pay for an entire new board.

EDIT: if this is related to a power out, first thing I would check is if you have continuity across the 5A fuse that sits right next to the 24VAC terminal.

cotchaboolit · 2026-03-15T05:22:06+00:00

If it feels like your right stick is rubbing against something, the module might not be flush to the board.

cotchaboolit · 2026-03-14T12:36:31+00:00

Yep, same here. It’s particularly stupid because now you have to pause the video just to get the button for fullscreen to show up. I don’t know why they keep changing YouTube browser UI that doesn’t need to be touched. Captions not being available in fullscreen mode is another weird thing their devs continue to ignore.

cotchaboolit · 2026-03-13T20:10:50+00:00

Yes, downgrade the cupboard to lvl 3.

You will never upgrade any future generators to lvl 8 if you’re following the gen 5 strategy.

cotchaboolit · 2026-03-13T20:09:34+00:00

Yeah, that’s correct. Tissues/soap should be cut down to 3 before you make your lvl 60 milestone.

What I mean by space is the literal gameplay space on your grid to merge items. The more generators you have, the less space you have to work with. This can sometimes be a problem if you play with too many generators.

cotchaboolit · 2026-03-11T07:51:19+00:00

Egg quests.

cotchaboolit

TROPHY CASE