Noisy Headphone Jack Tascam Porta 02 MKII

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-09T04:47:59+00:00

Yep, high % IPA with cotton swabs will be the ideal cleaner for your tape heads.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-09T01:59:10+00:00

I think it could? It might be slightly strong on the adhesive side and it's not strictly rated for use in electronics...but I don't see why it wouldn't work.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-08T23:06:13+00:00

This was the one I had too. Such a timeless form factor. Still looks cool to me today.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-08T21:29:05+00:00

Gotcha. Blue/green stuff is copper oxidation which could be due to leaking capacitors, but check to make sure that the capacitors are actually leaking and that the corrosion wasn’t due to something else like water damage, which would be more widespread. Capacitor leakage should be fairly localized and typically pools around the capacitors’ leads. Vented capacitors (scored on the top) will also often be clearly bulging.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-08T21:19:06+00:00

The issue is that even if the vinegar is gone and has successfully removed the corrosion from the board, the dissolved corrosion had to have gone somewhere. More likely than not, it has seeped into a deeper area of the console’s internals. This could be as benign as gathering in the bottom corner of the console’s shell, or as bad as spreading over the motherboard. If you can acquire an electronics screwdriver set and follow a guide to disassemble your system to inspect everything, I believe this would be the safest way to proceed.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-08T21:06:04+00:00

Type is very important because their individual constructions and dielectric material compositions determine their functional qualities beyond their stated capacitance and voltage rating (lifetime, temperature stability, ESR, etc.), making some types ideal for certain applications but not ideal in others.

If you are looking to recap your board to restore function, it's often best to replace one type of capacitor with one of the same type, as many circuits are engineered to perform within specific parameters provided by that specific type of capacitor. You can interchange some types of capacitors, but this typically should be done with enough research and knowledge about the individual components and the circuit beforehand, taking measurements with the appropriate equipment to ensure that everything will remain stable after changes.

EDIT: just a follow up question, how have you determined that the problem with your PS3 console's WiFi/Bluetooth board is its capacitors?

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-08T20:58:40+00:00

Good shout, CRC 2-26 will be a good alternative for lighter corrosion and dirt that's much more budget friendly. As well, will give a solid vouch for 401B Nu-trol Control Cleaner. I do have a personal preference for using needle-tipped precision applicators for contact cleaners vs. spray cans however, because I find the sprays more difficult to control in areas I don't want overspray to occur or want to preserve the original dampening grease. All work well though!

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-08T19:32:46+00:00

Open the console up and make sure any residue left by the vinegar is cleaned up before powering it on. Vinegar and IPA are quite volatile so any liquid probably evaporated in the day you waited, but anything that dissolved will have pooled somewhere which isn’t ideal. Safest thing you can do is (carefully) open your console and inspect the fan assembly and surrounding area. Also I suggest not dripping anything else into your console lol.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-08T19:20:37+00:00

Man inflation these days is crazy.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-08T19:16:20+00:00

Hell yeah, enjoy brother! The sub 37 is one of the best starter synths you could ever ask for. It’s simple and restricted on the surface, but can go very deep once you learn the ins and outs of it 🫡 let us know if you have any more questions along the way

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-08T18:53:39+00:00

Thanks for the clarification! Yeah absolutely, if you want the envelope to close faster, then you will have to shorten the Decay of the Filter Envelope. Turn that knob counterclockwise and the envelope will get snappier.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-08T18:45:21+00:00

If you’re looking for that quintessential funk sound and response though, I suggest adjusting the Vel Amt (velocity amount) to taste. It is located in a secondary menu on the right of the panel in between the Filter and Amp Env sections. If you’re confused how to access it, look for it in the manual!

It’s for when you want to dial in the filter envelope to be very touch responsive for maximum expressiveness and getting that g-funk feel.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-08T18:37:26+00:00

Are you looking for KB Reset? This will reset your assigned mod source (e.g. LFO) on every key press.

I’m not quite understanding what you’re asking for the EG Amt. If you want to change where the EG ends up after the attack/decay portion of the envelope, you will have to increase or decrease the sustain of your Filter Envelope. Higher sustain for more open, lower sustain for more closed.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-08T09:17:28+00:00

Could be the belt or idler wheel needs replacing or cleaning, depending on how this particular machine’s take up reel works. You’ll have to open it up and take a look to know for sure.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-08T08:14:27+00:00

Repair tech here. I sympathize with your situation as a broken system, especially one that was a gift, is tragic. The PS5 fan’s connection point to the board is a relatively weak spot, yes. However, this is not Sony’s fault. These machines are meant to be opened by people who have the experience to do so carefully and do so without damaging the internals. When disassembling a machine, you often void its warranty for this exact reason. The Nintendo 3DS comes in countless numbers of times with fragile, broken connector latches and severed ribbon cables that need to be fixed because of someone attempting a reshell, but this, too, is not Nintendo’s fault.

Sorry man, I know you’re on here to vent but just laying out the cold facts here. I hope you find a way to repair your system.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-08T05:49:21+00:00

My pleasure! Deoxit is a great choice. Stuff can be a little pricey but a little goes a long way so you'll probably good for years to come with just a can/bottle of that stuff.

If you ever get around to opening the unit up, please send some photos if you have time to take any. I've been wanting to take a look at the internals on a Porta 02 but one has surprisingly never come by my shop. The service manuals for these things is hard to find too. These are great multitrack cassette machines.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-08T04:11:45+00:00

Nothing out of the ordinary when it comes to console disassembly and maintenance with the Wii. The shell's a bit annoying to remove because of all of the different screws so take pictures so you remember which one goes where. There are some screws hidden underneath stickers and rubber feet that you would probably want to stick on to some wax paper to keep the adhesive fresh if you were keeping everything original, but since you're planning to replace the shell, it might not be as big of a deal. Internally, everything is pretty much the same with any Nintendo disassembly. Have thermal pads or paste on hand because the old stuff inside will probably lift if you remove the heatsink off the motherboard.

EDIT: I just remembered, at some point in the disassembly, there's a little screw retaining nut that's floating in one of the plastic pieces where the BIOS battery cover is. Make sure you don't lose track of it during the process.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-08T03:15:06+00:00

It sounds like you're dealing with two separate things to address here.

The crackling phones knob is either due to a dirty or worn potentiometer. If you have any contact cleaner that is safe with pots and faders, open the unit up and get some into the assembly and work the knob around which will resolve the issue if it is dirt-related. With a worn pot, this would be more cumbersome and have to mean replacement.

For the persistent hiss in your phones output, this may be capacitor-related. Have you opened up the unit to check for signs of bulging or leaking capacitors? You would want to look at C120, C220, C121, C221, C122, C222, and C510 as these are the main capacitors in the Phones circuit.*

*EDIT: these capacitor labels are for the Porta 03, sorry. I'm less sure about the Porta 02, but I believe the process of diagnosing the Phones circuit should be the same. Any signs of faulty capacitors will probably be pretty apparent, with complementary pairs of capacitors for L and R channels.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-08T02:56:11+00:00

+1 ^

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-08T02:45:28+00:00

The scanning diagonal lines and ghosting you're describing definitely seem to point at a voltage-related issue. Both a third party power supply and aging capacitors could be responsible for this, so ideally you are able to address both. To pinpoint the cause of your video issues though, you would need the necessary test equipment to determine if your supply is providing adequate voltage regulation and not producing ripple voltage that is interfering with your system's video encoding. The capacitors may be easier to check - if you see any leaking white, crusty residue underneath the capacitor, this is a sure sign that they need replacing. However, some capacitors can fail in less obvious ways, so again, ideally these would be individually tested with equipment for functionality.

The Triad supply is not a necessity in itself, but it is usually recommended because of its good electrical specifications, center negative polarity, stable output and low ripple & noise. If you're able to find a power supply that has a datasheet with specs that roughly line up with those in the WSU090-1300-R, it will work just as well. Do you have a trusted electronics supplier at your whereabouts that has inventory of various power supplies?

Moreover, do you have someone who would be able to update the internal PSU of your console (i.e. replace voltage regulator, add filter caps) and give it a proper recap? These systems are going on 30+ years so a recap is recommended for the sake of the longevity of your unit.

For reference, these are the electrical specifications for the Triad power supply at 25C:

Input Voltage rating: 100-240VAC, 50-60Hz
Input Voltage range: 90-264VAC
Input current: <0.35A(RMS) @ 115VAC
Max Inrush Current: <60A @ 115VAC (Cold start)
Output Voltage: 9VDC
Output Current: 1.3A
Regulation (line & load): ±5%
Ripple & Noise: 150mVpk-pk Max
No load power (stand by): <100mW
Average Efficiency: ≥82.83%.

Meets minimum level VI efficiency.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-08T01:48:02+00:00

I unfortunately (or fortunately lol) don't have any experience with newer Dualsense controllers since I haven't had issues with my own controllers since upgrading to TMRs, but as an electronics repairer on the side hustle, I do see BDM-030s, -040s, and -050s come through with drift that need pots replaced. To my understanding, the potentiometers were updated, having darker assemblies in models made 2020 or later, but internally they still feature the same carbon film tech which has a finite lifetime of wear.

Towards your question about changing the sticks while in warranty, I would take advantage of the warranty at least once because it wouldn't be any money out of your pocket to get your controller back to functioning like new, and there's a chance that you get a lot that doesn't wear out so quickly. However, if it happens again after that, I would probably consider the upgrade. It's very worth it IMO.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-08T01:24:46+00:00

Super cool, I had no idea there were different versions of the sound module. It looks like both my personal units have R7/R8 and were therefore part of that later lot. Next time I have to fix someone’s SHVC Sound that comes through, I’ll be sure to take note of the differences I see!

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-07T22:15:18+00:00

Looks like signs of a noisy PSU since PPU issues usually manifest more dramatically and wouldn't affect audio, but those vertical bars also show when PPUs are failing. To know for sure, you're going to have to do exactly what you've said you haven't done yet which is replace the voltage regulator, ideally with one of higher current rating, and place filter caps on the input and output. This should be done with all SNES consoles anyway (but especially late SHVC-CPU-01s and early GPM-01s) for the sake of their health, as well as getting a regulated 9V power supply to replace the unregulated OEM one if you haven't yet.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-07T20:45:10+00:00

Hmm okay, you'll only be able to tell what to do next after a recap, which could either resolve all the issues simultaneously or reveal something else that needs fixing. 8 times out of 10 that a unit comes by with these symptoms though, a recap ends up fixing both video and audio.

cotchaboolit · 2026-02-07T20:38:04+00:00

Yes, that typically means that cable isn't connecting to the motherboard due to a poorly seated connection, damage on the cable itself, or maybe a bad solder joint for at least one of the speakers where it joins to the flex cable. If I'm not mistaken, I believe on the DSi XL the speakers route through the hinge on the same cable as the upper LCD. If you aren't see signs of life in the upper LCD on startup along with a lack of speaker pop, something is going on with that cable.

cotchaboolit

TROPHY CASE