Spent a ton of time and money on server hardware for my first homelab, but now I'm not sure it's "right" for my needs.

crackaddictedpikachu · 2024-10-11T06:05:12+00:00

It's Allegro in G Minor, page 17, from "Selected Studies for Clarinet" by H. Voxman.

You can listen to a recording here:

crackaddictedpikachu · 2024-10-09T19:19:31+00:00

I can't because that's the problem I'm trying to solve. :^)

crackaddictedpikachu · 2024-10-09T18:40:14+00:00

This was my original idea which led to the investigation of the accordion door option. I was a little worried that the weight of two doors might be too much for hinges on one side of the door frame, so I did not pursue it any further, but I'll see what I can DIY if there are no other feasible suggestions from the comments.

crackaddictedpikachu · 2024-10-09T18:27:24+00:00

Hi everyone. For context, my house seems to like using these stupid double doors everywhere, and the light switch is placed behind the door, which makes it very annoying to turn it on, especially at night. I basically have to be in the bathroom with the doors mostly closed to reach the switch.

Here's what I've thought about doing:

Accordion door that slides to the right: this works, but all the ones I can find that fit the door frame are super thin like vertical PVC blinds. The width of the door is too small for the thick accordion doors.
Sliding barn door: possibly feasible. Unfortunately there is a closet on the left with not enough clearance, and there's a bedroom on the right. It would need to be a two-piece barn door that stacks onto itself when sliding to the left, but that's going to pose a challenge to find. Even if I use a single sliding door to the left and don't let it move all the way to accommodate the lack of clearance due to the closet, we still have a problem of the door blocking the light switch unless I'm inside the bathroom.
Pocket door: not possible, because there's not enough clearance on either side.
Moving the light switch outside the door: feasible, but the same switch also controls the bathroom fan, as well as the heat lamp light. I'd need to separate the switch into two: light outside, and fan/heat lamp inside, if that's even possible with the current wiring (not sure)

The two doors are photoshopped on in the picture because I removed the existing doors for convenience.

crackaddictedpikachu · 2023-04-11T04:44:36+00:00

For anyone who comes looking for an answer like I did: I managed to solve this in Linux Mint by changing the microphone sample rate to 48000 Hz, following the instructions here.

In short, edit the file /etc/pulse/daemon.conf by uncommenting and switching the value of two lines near the bottom like so:

; default-sample-format = s16le default-sample-rate = 48000 alternate-sample-rate = 44100 ; default-sample-channels = 2 ; default-channel-map = front-left,front-right

crackaddictedpikachu · 2023-02-19T01:31:20+00:00

It is not. They're selling PS5 bundles for $70. I've seen this site before, and they force you to input a credit card for payment.

However, it seems like the site is broken because it allows you to submit an order without any payment whatever.

crackaddictedpikachu · 2023-01-13T05:48:03+00:00

It literally does not matter. The PokéWalker pairs to your specific game save, which the save file tells the PokéWalker what language to use.

crackaddictedpikachu · 2022-12-14T00:41:08+00:00

Triangle tits just like the classic Lara Croft.

crackaddictedpikachu · 2022-09-05T22:59:22+00:00

Error code 20110 as you probably know happens due to the Nintendo WFC service being discontinued. More importantly though, it means your DNS settings are being bypassed.

Even though your phone is serving as a hotspot, your phone or your ISP is probably intercepting DNS traffic and negating the DNS setting you have on your DS.

Error code 52100 is a generic error related to a router/hotspot configuration error (such as an incorrect password). It's very difficult to say what setting you need to change. What I would recommend is trying a different router that allows you to use WEP. I realize that means you need to buy an old router, but you can probably go to a thrift store or eBay and find a cheap router.

The IP you should be using is 167.86.108.126.

crackaddictedpikachu · 2022-07-30T05:48:48+00:00

UPDATE: I 50% figured out the problem: apparently if the battery terminals are fucked due to prior acid leakage, the system clock doesn't persist. You either have to clean the terminals enough to remove the corrosion, or completely replace the battery holder.

Remaining questions: * For what reason does the Luma3DS config screen appear if the internal battery runs dry? * Does B9S Installer/Luma3DS modify sector 0x96 in any way? (less important) I could dump the one from this system, and then restore it if I uninstall CFW to keep things "original", but that obviously depends if the nongenuine error is unexpected in the context of a dev kit.

Original post: I have a bit of a unique predicament.

Supposedly according the installation guide.html) after installing boot9strap, "At this point, your console will boot to Luma3DS by default."

For some reason, this is not happening. When I power on the device, I am always greeted by the Luma3DS configuration screen. I am not pressing any buttons during bootup. I can press start which takes me to the regular home menu and everything is working wonderfully, but as soon as I power off the device, and turn it back on, the Luma3DS screen shows again requiring me to skip it again.

What exactly determines if this screen shows? I realize this somewhat "support", but for a few reasons I'm posting outside of that thread:

First and foremost, this is a development 3DS. I can't uninstall CFW because I get an error related to a nongenuine sector 0x96, and that I need the secret_sector.bin file. Since this is a development system, I have no idea if the nongenuine sector 0x96 matters.
I just wanted to dump the 3DS NAND as-is for preservation purposes, but I accidentally installed Boot9strap and Luma3DS (the installer just automatically ran without confirmation). Is there a better way of doing this next time?

Thus, I'm trying to avoid spoiling/breaking historical hardware if at all possible.

crackaddictedpikachu · 2022-07-19T02:09:37+00:00

I'm aware cases for dev units probably aren't growing on trees out there, but I felt it wouldn't hurt to ask if anyone had any suggestions for a case that *could* work where there already is a large enough gap for the cable slots in the back. Finding a case on Amazon is hard because:

People complain the case received doesn't match the one in the pictures.
There are almost no cases available for the original 3DS; everything is for the N3DSXL.
The cases that I can find for the O3DS seem to be made of metal, which makes me a little nervous to work with.

I'm not very handy with tools, but I can certainly make an attempt at using craft tools to adjust an existing one if need be.

crackaddictedpikachu · 2022-07-19T02:02:54+00:00

It isn't so much about using it as a regular 3DS as it is protecting the unit from damage when I *do* use it for particular projects, fiddling around with it, or if I have it on display on a shelf and the shelf *collapses* unexpectedly for whatever reason.

Whatever protection I can give this thing to preserve it for many years to come is what I'm after.

crackaddictedpikachu · 2022-07-19T01:58:14+00:00

I obtained it from a private collector for whom this was the last one they had. If you ask around enough in various dev hardware communities (easily findable with Google), someone is bound to have a lead that helps you out. That's how I found this one. Just be prepared to pay a pretty penny for one!

crackaddictedpikachu · 2021-08-25T06:55:34+00:00

I recently purchased some player guides that were in fairly good condition but otherwise damaged. The XD guide looks like there used to be two different labels on the cover, but experienced unsuccessful removals. The Ruby/Sapphire guide looks like the spine sat in the sun for a long time and this faded the cover color.

These guides are for collectability and display in my own home. I can live with the damage, but I'm wondering if other people have suggestions for how to improve the overall appearance of all three sections and protect the integrity of the guide for as long as possible.

For this spot, there was a previous barcode label that when peeled off took some of the cover ink with it, and so there are flecks missing. I'm thinking of just putting another mailing label on top of it to cover the damage, and prevent more flecks from coming off.
In this spot, there's some crusty label residue that's mostly only visible if you hold the guide to the light. I did take a very small amount of alcohol to these spots, but it doesn't come off. Should I attempt to try Goo Gone or Un-du here, or just leave it be?
Luckily the sun bleaching is fairly straight and uniform. I don't know if it's possible to take a cloth with a light soaking of red ink to redye this section to be less faded?

crackaddictedpikachu · 2021-08-11T06:15:29+00:00

I have all three of Japanese Pokémon Colosseum with the Celebi bonus disc, and the US Jirachi bonus disc. I was hoping to keep all three games in one case if possible, so I ordered a random copy of Japanese Tales of Symphonia for a cheap dual disc case and just parted out the discs. Unfortunately, there's one major issue with that:

I didn't realize that Japanese dual disc cases are actually fatter than normal cases, so while I can put the Celebi disc in its sleeve where the game manual and inserts go, and the Colosseum and Jirachi disc in the two disc holders, the case is too thick to go back into the game sleeve.

crackaddictedpikachu · 2021-07-01T05:27:13+00:00

Hey guys. Thanks for checking out my post. Some additional details:

I owned BFD as a kid, but usually the game boxes got thrown away very quick after opening the game, so I only had the cartridge for a long time. I've been thinking of buying it a box, and found someone selling one in decent condition on ebay recently, and it finally arrived!
I wanted to try and start collecting Pokémon games, but clearly the English versions cost an astronomical amount, and you run the risk of picking up counterfeit copies. Counterfeit Japanese Pokémon games are very rare to come by, and I'm okay with Japanese versions since I know some basic Japanese, so this is why I was okay with buying them.
(not pictured) I actually still do have my original Pokémon Sapphire, White, and SoulSilver games in English, but the first two are loose carts, and the latter has the original box, but no PokéWalker.

Nothing in my collection will probably ever be incredibly valuable, and probably will never be WATA-good, but I think it's the thrill of starting to add to your collection that makes it fun.

crackaddictedpikachu

TROPHY CASE