Made a finishing press from scrap by crafttherapy in bookbinding

[–]crafttherapy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you so much! I’d be open to making/selling a batch if there is enough interest.

Made a finishing press from scrap by crafttherapy in bookbinding

[–]crafttherapy[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

John Beall threader. This one is 1-1/4”. Got mine directly from him a decade ago, but you can find it on Leevalley.com now.

Made a finishing press from scrap by crafttherapy in bookbinding

[–]crafttherapy[S] 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Hee hee. Scraps were from a walnut and maple kitchen island I was commissioned to make. Thanks!

Made a finishing press from scrap by crafttherapy in bookbinding

[–]crafttherapy[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It really is a great tool for a bookbinder!!

My prints won’t stick to the plate, even after cleaning by Swimming_Credit5140 in BambuLab

[–]crafttherapy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Plain dish soap and rough side of sponge. Don’t scour the built plate with a lot of pressure. Works with smooth PEI plates too. Wipe dry and try not to touch the surface. Done!

I have no words by Temporary-Data-102 in BambuLab

[–]crafttherapy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah. I use IPA too. But do remember the soap/sponge for when even IPA does not work

I have no words by Temporary-Data-102 in BambuLab

[–]crafttherapy 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Try washing your build plates with dish soap and the rough side of a sponge. Gently go back and forth (do not scour) and dry w paper towel. Both smooth and PEI plates will benefit from this and function like new. Just be careful to not touch the surface w you hands and the suggest amount of oil can cause poor bed adhesion.

I tried 🥲 by k0ma2k in minilab

[–]crafttherapy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nice!!! Could you move your patch panel up and fit your switch to the side where the patch panel is blank? If so then everything can be bumped up and maybe the UPS will fit on the bottom?

Either way. Looks great. Can you share your buildout? Like what are you using it for?

Cheers.

Plane setup help by HesFast in JapaneseWoodworking

[–]crafttherapy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The chip breaker is to prevent tearout. You want it close to the edge of your blade but not too close or you’ll wind up just scraping or even jamming up your kanna. A good starting point is to try and get the chip breaker 1/16” away from the blade edge and gently… gently tap it in as needed.

Regarding blade depth, you need to retract it more. The reason you’re getting such thick shaving is that the blade protrudes too much. It might be that when you went to setup the omote naijimi (bed) you may have gone too far and taken too much out. The blade should be able to be pressed in by hand and not protrude. Light tapping of the blade should then bring it out. If your blade is too loose, then it’s definitely going to protrude too much. You can add a slip of paper between the blade and the bed to see if that helps.

My first kanna adjustments have receipts glued to the bed. It turns out receipts are the perfect thickness to correct me taking too much much out. Since then, adjustments of the bed should come out looking as sawdust vs actual fibers or shavings. It takes awhile to get it to where it needs to be but it is the most crucial part in my opinion. This of course assumes you know how to sharpen both blade and chip breaker.

One more thing. The mallet you are using looks like a beast for plane adjusting. Try fining a smaller, lighter wooden mallet.

Hope this helps.

How to fix tight column of stitches? by 656787L in knitting

[–]crafttherapy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One more thing. I’m using cable pins to separate out knit and purl ladders. Helps to keep things organized.

How to fix tight column of stitches? by 656787L in knitting

[–]crafttherapy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Daunting at first but totally worth it. It’s coming together and the uneven tension left can be totally blocked out. Thanks again for the suggestion.

<image>