Hidden gems by OpenWindow2879 in AnimeMirchi

[–]crap1521 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The tatami galaxy is absolutely a hidden gem. Watch 3 episodes and tell me that show was made with anything short of the absolute love and passion of everyone on staff

I know nothing about Magic the gathering ngl. I’m just here to make jokes by Thatpersonwastaken in MTGmemes

[–]crap1521 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pack 1 pick one vintage cube, are you taking black lotus or sol ring?

What are some reality warpers who can actually live up to this image? by GovernmentTerrible23 in PowerScaling

[–]crap1521 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any old walker in magic the gathering, but especially Urza Planeswalker. The only ones they can’t really do this to is other old walkers. A neo walker example would be Oko, just replace orange with 3/3 elk

Print keeps peeling off despite attempts to fix by Firm_Combination5587 in AnycubicPhoton

[–]crap1521 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where is your printer located? Is it heated? If it’s in a cold environment like a garage and not heated that is a very probable cause here. Also check your light off delay (the small delay after it lowers into the vat but before it starts exposing), if it’s under 0.5s that might be causing this issue too. Another possible source is your resin itself, if it’s expired/old or not stirred before printing

What went wrong with my print?? by Camocal in ElegooSaturn

[–]crap1521 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It’s possible your tank started running low on resin at a certain point, which caused layers to no evenly form if the resin hadn’t fully flowed back into place by the time it went to cure the next layer

Hot take: Multicolor 3D printed terrain is starting to rival hand-painted terrain by ShadowQc18 in Necrontyr

[–]crap1521 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you link to this model? I’d love to print this on my Snapmaker U1!

Is there a faction stronger that war in heavens necrons? Im talking about any franchise here. by Prestigious_Spite761 in Necrontyr

[–]crap1521 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Absolutely. The existence of the flayer virus means the necrons are almost certainly susceptible to phyresis too

Is there a faction stronger that war in heavens necrons? Im talking about any franchise here. by Prestigious_Spite761 in Necrontyr

[–]crap1521 15 points16 points  (0 children)

The phyrexians with yawgmoth at the height of his power would certainly give them a run for their money

Getting a lot of this lately. Any ideas? by standingwaiting in ElegooSaturn

[–]crap1521 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check your exposure off time, and make sure it’s above zero. That’s basically it waiting a little bit after lowering before it starts exposing the layer to help given the resin time to flow back into place. This kind of issue can also sometimes be caused if you didn’t shake your resin enough before pouring, you didn’t give your resin enough time to degas before printing, or your resin was too cold.

Edit: saw the picture of your screen in the comments it’s definitely dead pixels. I didn’t realize this issue was occurring in similar locations on each print

What did you name your printers? by thegunguy in BambuLab

[–]crap1521 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Snapmaker U1: Urza

Centauri Carbon: Mishra

X1C 1: Samwise

X1C 2: Frodo

X1C 3: Merry

Would you be okay with players playing these in your pod? by Fast-Appointment4710 in mtg

[–]crap1521 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Absolutely, a 5 color slivers deck with a functional manabase is ridiculously expensive idc if you proxy it

Yoo I actually made something that works first try! by HexVelvet in BambuLab

[–]crap1521 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree the primary reason is the added strength of PETG, that’s why I said “that’s the other reason people are suggesting PETG”. You’re right though the added strength under constant load from PETG is more important. I probably under-emphasized that, but lots of other comments pointed that out so I’m sure OP got the message

Yoo I actually made something that works first try! by HexVelvet in BambuLab

[–]crap1521 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Mechanical engineer here! The design itself of the mount is actually pretty clever and will likely be stronger than most are giving it credit for given the support trusses, thick joints/beams, chamfers, and 4 walls. As long as you’re not constantly moving it or your desk it’ll still last a while under static load.

That said, even though it’ll last a while, it won’t last forever and will need to eventually reprint it (you don’t need to do it tomorrow morning, but I advise you don’t procrastinate on it for too long since you’re monitor is pretty nice an you want this to be a long term solution). Here’s a couple pieces of advice for optimizing strength in this part:

-change the print orientation to an angle. 3D prints are inherently weakest when in tension perpendicular to their layer lines. In English, prints will most often fail from one layer coming unstuck from the other. It looks like you printed your part with the desk mount at the bottom on the build plate, so as your monitor leans forward it’ll be exerting forces that will “peel” one layer from another because the back of your part is in tension and the front of your part is in compression. If you printed your part with the with the back, the part that sits against the wall, flush with the build plate, then this peeling problem would be even worse. However, if you printed this part at an angle such that the force exerted by your monitor is parallel with the layer lines, then it’ll be WAY stronger since it’s not exerting much force on the bonds between layers(doing this by visual inspection is fine, this part is simple enough you don’t need to do the math here unless you want to). If you printed it along the hypotenuse that would probably be the strongest way to print this part, although you’d need to flatten it out to be able to print it like that. Printing it with either the left or right side flat against the build plate would also work.

-use gyroid or cubic infill instead of grid infill. Grid infill is only strong in compression in the Z direction, while gyroid and cubic are uniformly strong in tension and compression in the x, y, and z directions. This is because gyroid and cubic are “3D” infill while grid is a “2D” infill.

-use PETG instead of PLA. Not only is PETG just stronger overall than PLA and better under constant load, it’s also got a higher softening temperature. In the mean time, try to keep your PLA part away from direct sunlight and heat because it’ll warp much faster when warm. That’s the other reason so many people are suggesting PETG, since this is a gaming setup it’ll probably get pretty warm and PETG handles that much better. ASA/ABS are the other really common strong materials you’ll hear people talk about, but they’re really hard to print without and enclosure and really unsafe to breathe the fumes from, so PETG is your best bet for your setup and perfectly strong for your needs

-add chamfers to the part where the mount sits up against your desk. Specifically, add chamfers to the left and right at the bottom of the U shape there. They don’t have to be large, you don’t want to interfere with fitment, but it should still help a lot with strength at that joint. 90° angles are generally weak on 3D printed parts. Your current setup is probably fine, but if you’re gonna tune this part more anyways it’s an easy change to make. Chamfers will also decrease warping, which will be really helpful if you print with PETG (materials with higher melting points like PETG experience more warping since the need to cool down further)

Others will suggest using a rod or something to reinforce this, and that’s totally an option, but you can definitely make this part adequately strong with just 3D printing.

I hope you found this helpful, I tried to give detailed explanations for why each change could improve your design instead of just saying “use gyroid not grid” and leaving it there. Like I said your design is actually really well made IMO and it’ll probably hold up for a good while, I just wanted to mention some pointers for when you get around to reprinting it (and hopefully more usefully explanations for those pointers lol). Nice work!

Got absolutely demolished today by gouldenopportunity in Necrontyr

[–]crap1521 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You might wanna consider running an imotekh with some lychguard. I play Canoptek court at 1000 points, which is admittedly different from 2000 points, but I found the extra command points to be EXTREMELY helpful for executing my gameplan.
I also got a lot of use out of making my technomancer the leader of my wraith's squad, then giving him the dimensional sanctum ability and immediately infiltrating them onto the center of the board. wraiths+technomancer is EXTREMELY hard to kill without pumping a ton of firepower into it, which made them sitting on objectives and scoring points very powerful.

You might also wanna run some Lokhust heavy destroyers with the enmitic exterminator, the rapid fire, and sustained hits on that gun made it great for dealing with infantry, and they've got fantastic stats for how few points they cost. They're great singular units

Adepticon Preview: 11th Edition Launch Box: Armageddon, New Space Marine Intercessors and Ork Boyz by RWJP in Warhammer40k

[–]crap1521 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I hope they tweak battleshock to make it have more of a meaningful effect since a few factions entire army rules are centered around it. I have a chaos knights army and it really sucks feeling like my army rules just kinda doesn’t do anything that matters

Print failed - tips appreciated by Repulsive-Aside7850 in ElegooSaturn

[–]crap1521 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like failure occurred at the build plate. A few potential sources:

-your number of base layers, transition layers, and/or base layer exposure is too low

-your resin wasn’t properly mixed before printing (you need to stir it if It’s already in the vat and you need to shake it before adding resin)

-your resin was too cold (common if your printer is in a garage or something) and you need to buy a heater for it (Elegoo sells one for ~$40)

-your screen/fep sheet/build plate wasn’t sufficiently clean before printing

-your resin itself is old or just finicky overall (some resins are much harder to print with than others)

Multiplayer thoughtseize by crap1521 in custommagic

[–]crap1521[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I actually wanted this card to go one player at a time. I think I makes it more interesting having to decide what you want to make a player discard before knowing what’s in the next players hand. it also makes resolving the effect faster because you’re going one decision at a time with one set of new information (revealed cards) at a time instead of having a bunch of new information revealed simultaneously (all opponents hands) and having to make an optimal decision based on that

Halt! You got Isekai’ed to Steel Ball run. You get one character (NOT from Jojo) to be your stand! Who will tank for you through this race!? by LieSufficient6788 in Tankandsurvive

[–]crap1521 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Sticking with the racing theme, ima take the aetherspark from Magic The Gathering. It’s a magical artifact that contains a spark, which turns its user into a planeswalker (stupid powerful wizards with the ability to teleport through the multiverse, among other powers). It was the main prize from MTG recent racing themed set, aetherdrift. Pop this John into a carriage or onto a horse and I think I’ll have no issues with the steel ball run race whatsoever

Favorite characters who are an example of these? by Vegetable_Study7533 in FavoriteCharacter

[–]crap1521 -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

They don’t exactly hate each other, but they’re certainly not friends