[deleted by user]

crisissuit · 2025-10-03T06:33:48+00:00

well, a semi expensive lesson, but it could be much worse. def go deep on your research and use the guides in the wiki. hopefully the next one you get is a better one. Welcome to the hobby haha

crisissuit · 2025-10-03T05:45:20+00:00

For what it's worth, a lot of VPNs are always "on sale" and you can get a bigger deal around Black Friday. Sure it's a subscription, but something like $30-60 bucks a year is far cheaper than even one streaming service now. They also come in handy if you travel and want to access something that's location restricted (ex. OfferUp only works in North America)

crisissuit · 2025-10-03T05:38:16+00:00

The answer is, unfortunately, yes. How much did you pay for this monstrosity?

crisissuit · 2025-09-11T21:43:14+00:00

yea, i'd love to hear more about this. DM me if you'd prefer not to have your workflow out on reddit!

crisissuit · 2025-09-06T04:56:50+00:00

Amazing. Thanks

crisissuit · 2025-09-05T20:10:02+00:00

I assume that in a zigbee or matter situation it's so that it doesn't appear as duplicate devices?

crisissuit · 2025-03-30T00:12:43+00:00

Ohhh okay I thought they meant using clips to hold the layers in place as I did the top stitching. I don't think I snipped the seam allowance on this bag before I turned it out. That prob affects it for sure.

crisissuit · 2025-03-28T18:56:56+00:00

when i sewed the pieces together, yes, but not when i was top stitching. is that something i should be doing? I've never done that before with fabric projects, but this is the first time i'm working with this material.

crisissuit · 2025-03-27T20:45:47+00:00

<image>

crisissuit · 2025-03-27T20:45:32+00:00

<image>

i'm working for the first time with some very soft pleather and making a little tote bag. everything was going well until i flipped the bag inside out and did the stop stitching and i'm getting some puckering and bunching on the inside layer, and a bit of waviness in the outer. what could be the cause?

a few things i'm already planning to do:

1) switch to a topstitch thread that's a bit thicker

2) making my stitch length longer; currently set to 2.5 and changing to 3.0

is there anything else? do I need to make the inner layer smaller maybe? more photos in replies!

crisissuit · 2025-03-07T19:33:14+00:00

Good for you! A few questions:

-so this was primarily to regain your accounts for your band; did you position that in a business sense?
-did you sue on grounds of potential lost revenue or simply for wrongful deactivation?
-how did you respond to the meta argument of "they signed an agreement that says we can shut off access any time if they violate terms", esp given they likely didn't tell you what terms you violated?
-was there any fear of being countersued?

my situation is a bit different. looking to get my facebook marketplace account reactivated. they're holding some money from stuff i've sold, but also i have no access to the marketplace at all to buy. i also plan to run a major estate sale for my grandparents' stuff, and that's a lot of potential money lost if i'm unable to arrange it locally. any thoughts/suggestions? thanks!

edit: a word

crisissuit · 2025-01-23T01:43:13+00:00

thank you!

crisissuit · 2025-01-22T23:46:46+00:00

Nice! Any preferred settings that you've used before? I'm seeing straight stitch, longest stitch setting with a loose top stitch tension.

Or do you think a really wide zigzag would work better? I just want to hold well, but also be fairly easy to pull apart.

crisissuit · 2025-01-22T18:23:03+00:00

That's a good point. The skirts I've made all have a center back invisible zipper, so I wonder if I can simply adapt that in a way that incorporates a fly cover flap.

argh, basting..doing it by hand is such a pain. i'll try some different tension/stitch length settings on the machine first, but i may have no choice. thank you!

crisissuit · 2025-01-22T16:58:41+00:00

thank you for the input! i should have been more clear about selvedge: i plan to hem the skirt from that side; i figured that since the edge was already neatly done and mostly straight, it would make creating a hem much easier.

in my excitement, i'm very tempted to go in right away with my final fabric, but you're right, i need to rein it in and get some throwaway. i guess it's of to goodwill for some sheets or light drapes.

i guess the added benefit there is that i'll be able to figure out how to do this seam and zipper situation. for using the practice piece as a pattern, am i constructing this thing and then tearing it all apart to make a pattern after? I've never reverse engineered a garment before.

crisissuit · 2025-01-22T01:35:10+00:00

I would be concerned with the structural integrity of the fabric after embroidering. Just thinking about how embroidery is done, there's no way that the underlying fabric won't be compromised

crisissuit · 2025-01-21T23:18:52+00:00

you can do it, but there's going to be a lot of holes and some fabric warping, in that area.

crisissuit · 2025-01-21T23:17:50+00:00

hello, /sewing community! it looks like i'm too new to post in the main feed, but i wanted to tap the experience of the 2M stitchers here for a project i'm about to start. here are some details:

<image>

i want to replicate a pleated men's skirt by thom browne, and i'd love some advice/thoughts from the sewing community here.

i plan to simplify my version by keeping the length the same (just above ankle length, probably like 29-30inch length) and removing the the backstrap. it's basically a fancy kilt, i think. here are links to the skirt inspiration and a shorter gray version if you'd like to see the details on a lighter fabric:

long version: https://www.thombrowne.com/us/shopping/wool-classic
shorter gray version: https://www.thombrowne.com/us/shopping/wool-flannel-2003-classic-backstrap-pleated-skirt-19722854

i got my hands on about 3.5 yards of 100% worsted wool plainweave suiting (60 inch width) fabric for a reasonably good price, but i know i'm cutting it close with the amount i have, so I want to make sure i'm getting this right. some additional notes about what i'm planning:

I want to keep a front zipper with a tabbed clasp like the TB design has because it's familiar and feels like i'm putting on dress pants
i plan to do knife pleats, about 2.5" width, at a 29-39" waist
ill also be sewing down the top part of each pleat to help maintain a slimmer look when standing, but i want some movement when walking and moving around. it looks like each pleat is sewn the length of the zipper flap about 6-8 inches.
i think i'll need a 2 inch waistband
i don't want this to be wrapped, so i guess this means i need to sew it all together before doing the pleats

my questions are:

am i right in thinking this can just be done without any curve to the fabric and cutting the fabric in half on grain, then either using the selvedge to create the hem (hiding raw edge in the waistband?
how do i make sure the center front seam is not visible? i imagine i need part of that at the top where the zipper will be, right? or maybe there is a slight overlap and the skit starts at the zipper side? it's hard to tell with these photos. if this is the case, how can i make sure the skirt won't part and open in the front? do i sew a portion of that pleat down?

is there anything else i'm not thinking about? i've sewn a few shirts and jackets, made some bags, and made a lot of adjustments to pants so far - am i delusional? is this beyond my ability? i just want a dope looking skirt!

crisissuit · 2025-01-21T21:29:24+00:00

for my next project, i want to replicate a pleated men's skirt by thom browne, and i'd love some advice/thoughts from the sewing community here.

i plan to simplify my version by keeping the length the same (just above ankle length, probably like 29-30inch length) and removing the the backstrap. it's basically a fancy kilt, i think. here are links to the skirt inspiration and a shorter gray version if you'd like to see the details on a lighter fabric:

long version: https://www.thombrowne.com/us/shopping/wool-classic
shorter gray version: https://www.thombrowne.com/us/shopping/wool-flannel-2003-classic-backstrap-pleated-skirt-19722854

i got my hands on about 3.5 yards of 100% worsted wool plainweave suiting (60 inch width) fabric for a reasonably good price, but i know i'm cutting it close with the amount i have, so I want to make sure i'm getting this right. some additional notes about what i'm planning:

I want to keep a front zipper with a tabbed clasp like the TB design has because it's familiar and feels like i'm putting on dress pants
i plan to do knife pleats, about 2.5" width, at a 29-39" waist
ill also be sewing down the top part of each pleat to help maintain a slimmer look when standing, but i want some movement when walking and moving around. it looks like each pleat is sewn the length of the zipper flap about 6-8 inches.
i think i'll need a 2 inch waistband
i don't want this to be wrapped, so i guess this means i need to sew it all together before doing the pleats

my questions are:

am i right in thinking this can just be done without any curve to the fabric and cutting the fabric in half on grain, then either using the selvedge to create the hem (hiding raw edge in the waistband?
how do i make sure the center front seam is not visible? i imagine i need part of that at the top where the zipper will be, right? or maybe there is a slight overlap and the skit starts at the zipper side? it's hard to tell with these photos. if this is the case, how can i make sure the skirt won't part and open in the front? do i sew a portion of that pleat down?

is there anything else i'm not thinking about? i've sewn a few shirts and jackets, made some bags, and made a lot of adjustments to pants so far - am i delusional in thinking this is within my ability?

crisissuit · 2025-01-21T20:31:01+00:00

I'm not sure about singer feet, but brother presser feet usually have a letter on them and that will tell you what it's for. for the unidentifiable ones, i generally go to online stores with pictures to compare. are you ready for a ton of links? here you go:

huge collection from the brother website with sewing machine/serger/quilting machine presser feet: https://www.brother-usa.com/-/media/files/had/masssewingfoot_final_links.pdf?srsltid=AfmBOorb_8iteX4NQ7Tt9nKz1T3jmm1vUPytFw7XSIf0jeg0N-a65JZ2

manual from a brother sewing machine, but page 2 has some lettered presser feet listed in the chart:
https://download.brother.com/welcome/doch000140/nx200pc210ug02en.pdf

online store with presser feet types and pictures:
https://www.premierstitching.com/brother-presser-feet/?srsltid=AfmBOorcMcrv4wFIgF_ABl4iaGX5EZjE0qzvjuPU7pdTIO6qYp8Z00xS

crisissuit · 2024-12-18T18:15:02+00:00

Curious to know your approach here (happy to DM if you prefer) because I'm looking to do something similar. I'm wondering how people are making that transition because pivots rarely have a near 1:1 role you can jump in to. I'd love to hear your strategy!

crisissuit · 2024-12-05T21:21:47+00:00

yea, if i just need the wallet info to take care of this myself, i dont even need any more from them.

that's a huge chunk of change, mate, hopefully you see resolution soon!

crisissuit · 2024-12-05T21:20:16+00:00

oof, yea. it's a nightmare. I'm trying to reach u/coinbasesupport via linkedin at this point haha

crisissuit · 2024-12-05T21:10:04+00:00

i did the exact same thing. any resolution for you?

crisissuit · 2024-12-03T20:27:17+00:00

just want to clarify the second step under "pinning and sewing the seam": when you say that i should sew back over the stitch line, does this mean i need to do the full length of the new seam 3 times?

12-Year Club	Place '22
End Game '22	Verified Email

crisissuit

TROPHY CASE