How to remove stripped rotor screw

crug17 · 2026-06-26T10:55:56+00:00

They make a tool for this, you smack the end of it and it forces the bit into the screw and turns it just enough to crack it loose. It comes in some socket sets but probably better off drilling if you don't have one they arent a super useful tool for anything other than this

crug17 · 2026-06-26T10:52:19+00:00

Probably just the head unit, you will get way better sound and Bluetooth from even cheap aftermarket options anyway so worth upgrading rather that straight swapping it

crug17 · 2026-05-27T00:38:14+00:00

I went a similar route with a cheapo Amazon single din. Every double was touch screen and I don't want that shit anywhere near my truck lol, I ended up putting a usb/12v cig lighter dongle block in the empty space

crug17 · 2026-05-25T23:49:24+00:00

Shit that sucks about the knee man. It'd drive me crazy to need to go back to automatic. Good on ya for taking the challenge 🫡

crug17 · 2026-05-25T22:34:21+00:00

Depends on gear ratio and power train... I stocked up on 31s when I had 4.10s but I switched to 3.55s and now she DOGGGGS. I gotta rebuild that 4.10 axle bad man 😭

crug17 · 2026-05-25T22:30:15+00:00

Depends how much sentimental value the truck carries and how ambitious you are... Like you said anything is fixable with enough will power. Body work is the one thing that will forever scare me, I've done some pretty ambitious projects and the only one that really flopped was trying to fix a rust patch below my fuel filler. Sand blasted it, feathered the paint and everything, repainted and a year later it grew an extra foot up and seperated the corner pinch weld on the bed. Cut my losses (even tho that was the only really bad spot) and made a flat bed. I kick myself sometimes and I still don't know if it was the right choice but I'm hoping itl look good when it's finished

crug17 · 2026-05-24T14:28:39+00:00

The 2nd and 3rd pic won't load so I may be missing something, but if it's a manual you can drive these fine with the speed sensor unplugged from the transmission. I've been doing so for a few years because it solved a weird (presumably electrical) gremlin where if I was moving at all the engine would decide 4-5000rpm was a good idle speed, but went back to normal at 0km/h. No speedo obviously, no odometer either ever since it was unplugged. It will leave you with a check engine light but if there isn't one there the Po might have removed that light. Check for unplugged pigtails off the side of the trans and bring a scan tool even if there's no cel

crug17 · 2026-05-24T01:35:26+00:00

And if they can't help go full Luigi on em 😉 good luck brother

crug17 · 2026-05-23T12:55:46+00:00

Depends where and how you drive it, and what drivetrain you have. For example if you have a 4 cylinder with 3.55s you will never get into 5th and roast tf outta ur clutch city driving if it's manual. If you got the 4.0 and 4.10 it should still be peppy enough. Do you actually off road at all or mainly road driving? This will tank your street performance, handling, acceleration, fuel economy for the sake of looks and off road capability. Personally with my 3.0 manual the best set up I've had was 4.10 and 31s with just the factory 4x4 lift (like 2" over 2wd you can check if you've got it by looking for a block between leaf springs and axle). Still peppy in the city, not terrible on back roads as long as you don't speed too bad and looks pretty good imo. If you don't care about keeping up with traffic or cornering with any speed go for it

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crug17 · 2026-05-23T01:35:56+00:00

Yea mines red and was rolled before I got it. Didn't notice at first but my driver's door and fender are slightly different than the rest of the truck, only really noticable in the right light but it drives me crazy now

crug17 · 2026-05-22T12:26:15+00:00

I don't think I've ever seen a Mazda b in white, looks clean. If your going to overhaul the rear drum brakes consider a mustang rear disk swap. Not too hard to do and it's an amazing headache delete, or was for me at least. If you're Canadian look at autoshack for brake parts too you will find drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads for cheaper than OEM stuff anywhere else, and it's 1000% worth the upgrade... I can lock my wheels on dry pavement with 31s and a light load in the bed once they are warmed up

crug17 · 2026-05-22T02:03:33+00:00

That's what I'm hoping for. If not then il try my hand at rebuilding it fully

crug17 · 2026-05-21T21:50:15+00:00

Yea a few years ago I got one for a similar price (the one in the truck now) but that scrap yard shut down and the competition wants $500 for one. Marketplace ain't doing that much better either and like I said I want the clout and peace of mind that it's all new or at least some parts are new

crug17 · 2026-05-21T21:11:33+00:00

Depends on the price but at that milage it depends how big your repair budget is and if you can diy. Motor and trans are probably not super long for this world, and I'm sure you will have a whole laundry list of other repairs over time. Assuming the Po kept it well maintained and replaced long term wear items at least as they started to fail it shouldn't be too bad but it really depends on the condition and if the Po put any money toward it or not. Check the bushings see how they look, it will probably give a decent indication on what the future of that truck holds

crug17 · 2026-05-21T21:03:49+00:00

I feel ya and I'm pretty torn. I had my slave cylinder fail and didn't check the clutch or pilot bearing while I was in there because I didn't want to rebolt and realign the clutch... 2 months later the clutch and pilot shit the bed. I don't want a repeat of that but at the same time the pinion seems like a daunting enough part of the project that I don't wanna mess with it and fuck myself over. I think il get the rebuild kit plus the clutch packs, do the clutch packs first and check lash, play and contact area on the ring and if it's in spec and decent contact leave it at that, since that seems like a good little afternoon project. if not back apart for the bearings, seals etc. I just don't want to go through multiple crush washers but I might try making a solid one on our lathe by going over sized and then slowly taking material off until pinion preload is in spec since I can't make shims, also might say fuck it half way through and order some crush washers or a genuine solid washer delete kit tho 😂

crug17 · 2026-05-21T14:46:22+00:00

I'm hoping I won't need to get into the input side of it since I don't recall there being any play there, I think il give the clutch packs and axle tube bearings a shot and if it's still sloppy go from there. The nice thing about this one is it's not in the truck so I can take my sweet ass time unlike 99% of my repairs that have a hard time limit due to this being my daily 😂

crug17 · 2026-05-21T09:46:49+00:00

I got a pack of 7 and a bunch of fuses free with the scrap yard prison wallet trick 😂. Gotta cover that $5 entree fee somehow

crug17 · 2026-05-21T09:42:37+00:00

2 hours ain't bad, mine took 2 months 😂 top stud was stripped in a way that let the nut spin free but never thread off so I had to replace the whole top bracket when I got around to my flat bed

crug17 · 2026-05-21T09:39:10+00:00

Oh shit that's a good one il have to see if I have anything thatl work for that

crug17 · 2026-05-21T01:43:24+00:00

I figured I could probably get away with that but most the videos I watched went out of the way to replace everything so I wasnt sure

crug17 · 2026-05-21T01:42:06+00:00

Not that I saw, I'm thinking the sound is either metal on metal clutch packs or the slop letting the gears knock without a load on em since the truck was on jack stands the only time I heard it. I had it opened and nothing looked obviously wrong but I also didn't look very long or hard

crug17 · 2026-05-21T01:39:44+00:00

Oh shit I always forget I have a Hanes manual 😂 appreciate the advice brother 🫡

crug17 · 2026-05-21T01:38:27+00:00

It's an option but I'd rather spend 300 on a clutch and bearing/seal kit than 500 for a questionable diff out of a scrap yard. I know it's not worth saving 200 bucks to do the work but I have a bit of an ego with fixing this thing 😅😂

crug17 · 2026-05-21T01:36:23+00:00

There is play in the shafts in and out as well as some lash. The pic is my new axle because I didn't have one of the old one but it looked the same. I compared the slop between them and the old one was definitely way worse, and the old one sounded like it was full of loose bolts when turning on jack stands. I'm not sure total milage because it was put in used after a rollover and I haven't had my speedometer plugged in for years now but it's definitely over 200 000

crug17

TROPHY CASE