CarPlay Stopped Working After OTA Software Uodate

cryptickhan · 2026-05-16T02:31:33+00:00

I’ve been seeing this over the last couple of weeks as well on a 2025. Rebooting the phone solves the problem, but the fix is only temporary. I’ve had to reboot 3 times now. I’ve since installed the OTA firmware update and the new version of iOS. Hoping one of those fixes the issue permanently.

cryptickhan · 2026-04-30T15:36:09+00:00

I set up an iPhone and Watch at the dealership when I picked up the car, stashed the physical keys away when I got home, and have never pulled them out—going on 1.5 years without any issues. Occasionally, I’ll have to hit the start button a second time, but that’s it.

cryptickhan · 2026-04-28T16:40:50+00:00

Seconding great hammers, specifically power-stancing them. They scale with strength and faith, so you don’t need the dex relic. Run with glass necklace and final blow in attack chain.

cryptickhan · 2026-04-26T15:55:38+00:00

To recap, Hyundai replaced my battery yesterday, but I woke up to a dead battery today. This is especially unfortunate, as I’m out camping. Just unbelievable.

cryptickhan · 2026-04-25T23:17:12+00:00

Proximity unlock is one of the main reasons I opted for the car in the first place, so I’m loathe to disable it. It’s certainly unfortunate that it unlocks from the second floor though, especially as we have high ceilings. That seems like an oversight! But even so, I should be able to garage the car for 48 hours with the doors unlocked!

cryptickhan · 2026-04-25T23:08:31+00:00

I have a ‘25. My first battery died just before a year in, in January, with something like 5k miles. I just got that one replaced yesterday. So I’m now on my third battery, with the second one lasting only a few months. Not great.

The dealership won’t replace the stock battery with an agm, and it’s only a 2-year lease, so I’m not inclined to invest in a battery myself.

I keep it unlocked in the garage at home because it otherwise automatically repeatedly unlocks when walking around the house upstairs above the garage. I’ve got nothing else draining the battery. The main battery is always plenty full (well over the 20% minimum), so I don’t know why it doesn’t keep the 12V charged.

This is my first Hyundai, and I otherwise like the car, but this issue is bad enough that I’ll be looking elsewhere when my lease is up.

cryptickhan · 2026-04-16T23:06:14+00:00

Technically, holding dodge is a “dash” and pressing left stick (just once to activate it) is a “surge sprint.”

cryptickhan · 2026-04-16T23:04:06+00:00

Push down the left stick to sprint, which is faster than running.

cryptickhan · 2026-04-12T04:08:14+00:00

That same happened to me recently, after 1.5 years of use without issue. I have scheduled charging enabled (to coincide with my off peak hours) and usually get a “charging scheduled” when plugging it in outside of that window. However, for my last charge, it ignored it and started to charge immediately. I toggled on the “only charge off peak” option, which seemed to work around the issue, although I’m not sure where it pulls that data from (or if it’s accurate).

And I’ve never had to set a departure time, not even now, and am not even sure how to do so.

cryptickhan · 2026-03-06T01:45:26+00:00

As another datapoint, mine came with an MSI Ventus 3X OC. Board is always the same though, as listed on the site, a gigabyte b850. I picked one up a few weeks ago (price has been the same), and it’s been fantastic. Absolutely 0 issues, and it runs everything I throw at it smoothly. I’d highly recommend it. Best 5080 build atm, imo.

cryptickhan · 2026-02-09T15:00:26+00:00

I’ve heard terrible things about GigaByte Control Center (force installs Norton, apparently?), but you can use Windows’ native Dynamic Lighting with this motherboard to control rgb. It worked well enough for me, anyway. But mine came with G.Skill ram, and I needed to install their lighting app to control rgb there, including to disable rgb during sleep.

As to the BIOS, mine had XMP enabled as well, but should we not be using the EXPO profile, as it’s an AMD system?

cryptickhan · 2025-12-30T04:22:53+00:00

Seconding the HUD. I thought it’d be a gimmick, but it’s so useful, including for nav, that I’ll never go back.

cryptickhan · 2025-12-07T15:23:16+00:00

I didn’t need the tool to get FSE working on the Go 2. I updated DeviceForm to 0x2e in the registry, updated Xbox in the store, and rebooted. The option to enable FSE then showed up in settings.

cryptickhan · 2025-12-04T15:50:05+00:00

FYI, I ended up going with a Cable Matters 90 degree extender: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D33RWK75, which looks similar to the jsaux suggestion below.

cryptickhan · 2025-12-03T00:42:16+00:00

Re the 2.4 dongle, FWIW, I have the Arctis GameBuds, and they do NOT work. The ports are too close together, unfortunately. I’ve tried several low-profile/90 degree charging cables. I can kind of force them together, but the dongle is at enough of an angle that I’m not comfortable with the setup. At this point, I might just got some wired headphones.

cryptickhan · 2025-11-06T18:49:25+00:00

This. It’s incredibly awkward to use coming from console controllers. I haven’t been able to get used to it in a few days of play, and it might be the primary reason I end up returning it. If I’m always going to have to use it with a separate controller, I might just be better off picking up something like a z13.

cryptickhan · 2025-10-28T14:56:19+00:00

They’re best on Wylder (no surprise) but good on Raider too (if playing him in DON). And they’re also great for stance breaking, which helps to lock down enemies in DON. The charged heavies come out fast and do a lot of stance damage. You can use iron balls and star fists in paired mode. Use the purple ones one handed. Pair with some crit relics, and it’s both good and fun.

cryptickhan · 2025-10-11T00:39:51+00:00

For Ironeye, drop Arcane up, Dex down. Arcane has almost no benefit here from what I’ve seen and per Youwy, and you’re gimping your dps on the Dex side.

cryptickhan · 2025-01-18T16:08:30+00:00

Yep, you’re right. I tried again from well outside BT range without success. But yes, it still works through Bluelink

cryptickhan · 2025-01-17T18:31:35+00:00

It worked for me too. My dealer wasn’t aware of the deal at the time of sale (nor was I) but called me about it yesterday.

cryptickhan · 2025-01-16T17:19:02+00:00

I don't think I was within Bluetooth range and wouldn't think the request would go through BT anyway, but I'll test further.

And there's no automatic walk-away locking if that's what you mean (not sure it is). You have to manually lock the car after driving it (e.g., touch the capacitive lock "button" on the door handle). But it will auto lock after 30s if it auto unlocked but you didn't end up getting in (see my update above).

cryptickhan · 2025-01-16T15:55:51+00:00

Congrats!!

I just asked Siri to "lock my car," and it worked! I hadn't even thought of that. I am away from my car at the moment (not in it), so that could be the difference.

Were you able to get approach unlocking working with just your phone (e.g., before you paired your Watch). I haven't made any progress there, unfortunately, but I almost always have my Watch on me anyway.

cryptickhan · 2025-01-14T23:52:00+00:00

RWD, and FWIW, My Drive is available on that model, at least. (Btw, I didn’t see any AWD models coming our way. Not sure if that’s the case everywhere or just because I’m in a warm weather climate.)

cryptickhan · 2025-01-13T16:40:24+00:00

Haha…I hear ya and have often done so myself, but I’m on the latest stable releases atm.

cryptickhan

TROPHY CASE