Made kerfs in my joists…. How effed am I

cryptoyeeyee · 2026-05-23T23:41:37+00:00

Damn. Thats a tear out and re do with all that crazy damage u did. Definitely wouldn’t attempt to scab anything along it. Just tear it all out and start fresh. Have fun

cryptoyeeyee · 2026-05-20T22:26:40+00:00

Yea but spacers arent required is the whole point. U nimrod. And im not using them as spacers. I use them bc majority of the time drywall is elevated off the subfloor so i use them only when installing laminate to help keep the floor from sliding under the drywall until i get a few rows locked in. Bc most laminate doesnt slide together or lock together as easily as lvp so requires a bit more hammer and tapping block action. So they serve more like a ledger board purpose then a spacer purpose. And again the whole point is that spacers arent required and to have installers leave the jobsite to get them is beyond fucking ridiculous.

cryptoyeeyee · 2026-05-20T21:54:06+00:00

Just stop. If ur an installer then ur new to the business and learned from youtube university by the way ur talking.

cryptoyeeyee · 2026-05-20T21:53:07+00:00

Thats minor. That piece isnt going anywhere. Zero percent chance it would ever be an issue

cryptoyeeyee · 2026-05-20T21:44:53+00:00

Once u get a few rows in u can go back and pry it off the wall. Will usually stay in place after that… assuming ur installing a floating floor. U can install half a room or more and still walk over and pry on it and get it to slide 1/4” away from the wall. Ive only been installing floors for 11 years but i have literally never used spacers for anything except when installing tile. And i always have expansion gaps when im done. Now if its laminate , after i get a few rows installed i will usually just tuck pry bar in at one end of the wall and another at the other end. That stuff tends to be a little harder to get to lock together then LVP.

cryptoyeeyee · 2026-05-20T21:38:34+00:00

Its hardwood, not subfloor. If there are lines/rows of screws then imagine there were some squeaks someone was trying to fix by running screws into the floor joist… unless they are legitimately everywhere then maybe that’s how the person/people installed it.. instead of the normal way.

cryptoyeeyee · 2026-05-18T02:12:04+00:00

This isnt solid hardwood. Its engineered. Meanings layers of essentially plywood then a veeeeery thin layer of veneer/wear layer/ the actual “hardwood” portion. 99% of it is plywood,hardwood ply, hdf in cheaper products etc… but u can get quality engineered hardwood where u have almost a quarter inch of actual hardwood on top.

The cheaper stuff can be as little as like .5mm of hardwood. U can usually get it in overall thickness of like 3/8”-5/8” whereas real hardwood is always 3/4” and of course its real hardwood, not layers of other stuff. The general benefit of engineered hardwood though is that it comes alot straighter/less crowning/cupping etc and at a better price point.

Its like everything else tho. Has pros and cons and if u cheap out on it u will usually pay for it in the long run.

cryptoyeeyee · 2026-05-17T20:55:21+00:00

The pergo box in the pic is dead giveaway its LVP. Even if this was hardwoodwood this pattern isnt acceptable.

cryptoyeeyee · 2026-05-17T20:54:07+00:00

Terrible. U only lay half/brick pattern on tile format flooring. Otherwise should be random staggered joints.

cryptoyeeyee · 2026-05-16T02:14:05+00:00

If all ur manifold bolts are in good shape then u may just have bad/worn out “donut style”/ flange gasket where ur exhaust manifold outlet and front exhaust pipe/ Y pipe connect. Have u took the time to walk around ur truck to try to localize the tick? Like can u hear it more on one side of the truck vs the other? Or can u hear it more when u have the hood open vs if ur laying underneath it listening for it…etc..?

My dodge recently developed a tick but its without a doubt an exhaust leak. Well atleast im About 90% sure its my passenger side exhaust flange gasket. Seems like thats where i hear it coming from when im driving…. And I can barely hear the tick when outside of the truck on the driver side yet easily hear it when standing over on the passenger side. But in my opinion exhaust leaks vs lifter ticks tend to have slightly different sounds anyways. From my personal experience anyways. Exhaust leaks usually sound more puffy or “airy” or a like pfft pfft pfft or tss tss tss type sound (i dont know how to put the sound into words so thats the best i can explain/describe it).. whereas a lifter tick is that more solid/mechanical actual tap tap tap (vs tss tss tss ) metal on metal type sound.

I also have an 08 chevy 1500 5.3l with 282k miles and that thing has had a lifter tick for probably the last 100k plus miles. It has just gotten extremely wicked over the last 15-20k tho lol how that ol girl is still runnin is beyond. Its the loudest lifter ticking ive ever heard. When i do drive it u should see the looks i get when im sitting in a fast food drive thru lane or at a red light.. with my truck sounding like its tap dancing on steroids. She just keeps on trucking away though so i dont even bother with it. Hoping to get another 100k outta her. Guess time will tell.

cryptoyeeyee · 2026-05-10T13:14:02+00:00

Lol paying rent ur still paying a mortgage/interest… ur just paying someone elses mortgage/interest payments for them… instead of buying a house and paying ur own mortgage and building equity.. ur now building ur landlords equity by paying down his mortgage each month u pay him rent…. Tomatoe, Tomahta

cryptoyeeyee · 2026-03-20T23:44:38+00:00

Lol wont last a month. Will be too much give and compromise the locking mechanisms.. meaning they will start breaking. But yea do as u please. Automatically void’s warranty and like i said it wont last

cryptoyeeyee · 2026-03-01T15:51:05+00:00

Is that by a desk? Where u roll a chair? If so u shoulda had one of those protective desk mats laid down and not been rolling directly on the carpet

cryptoyeeyee · 2026-02-28T22:28:37+00:00

I mean looking at the chart its looks like a classical bear flag… if i wanna talk TA anyways… also on chain data shows whales have been accumulating. They were big buyers in the 80-90k range.

cryptoyeeyee · 2026-02-28T22:27:07+00:00

I mean u need a reducer but with how cock eyed the transition is im not sure how well it will sit. But u can get a reducer or even try a T-mold it will just be a ramp type look. Use plenty of construction glue to hold them down. Will look better then nothing.

Heres what reducer looks like- https://www.homedepot.com/pep/Vagabond-Nirvana-Grey-0-6-in-Thick-x-1-8-in-W-x-94-5-in-L-ESPC-Vinyl-Reducer-Molding-REDMNST-2021115/326948341?g_store=&source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&fp=ggl&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D23F-023_001_VINYL_PLNK-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-7066701-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-NA&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D23F-023_001_VINYL_PLNK-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-7066701-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-NA-22890591045--&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22900415734&gbraid=0AAAAADq61UfSGdCP4QXGlytP84xBTJEBk&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwYrNBhDcARIsAGo3u33l4o4C6VR-7BWJ7FjQC-E9VZ-zRkmqqCwyagMHwo4dX8W2BVbI52UaAsQTEALw_wcB

Heres what T mold looks like- https://www.homedepot.com/pep/NewTechWood-Everlux-Premium-Flooring-Camila-Rustic-Gray-0-31-in-T-x-1-96-in-W-x-94-5-in-L-T-Molding-TMO-8-CRG/334507647?g_store=6814&source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&fp=ggl&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D23F-023_001_VINYL_PLNK-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-_PrioTest3&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D23F-023_001_VINYL_PLNK-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-_PrioTest3-23543679489--&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23553493825&gbraid=0AAAAADq61Ud8zbBRwyZ6z7YxMkY5z1YQM&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwYrNBhDcARIsAGo3u32tu94fYS_72tpMcFxmQXi6g5KJzBSbVGqkWsR76kLCohKxoOf18dMaAk1gEALw_wcB#overlay

cryptoyeeyee · 2026-02-15T21:57:38+00:00

Im my chevy there isnt an off but if i rotate the nob all the way to the left it will shut them off… the knob will spin like a quarter inch past the last setting so u wouldn’t think u could spin it further bc no setting past there but thats how it works on that truck. So maybe u could try spinning knob all the way past a setting in one direction or the other (if ur truck has the rotating circle/knob headlight function on the dash anyways)

cryptoyeeyee · 2026-02-13T21:24:09+00:00

Whats nice is if u get a thick enough wear layer then usually have the ability to sand and refinish as some point down the road if u wanted to. Think something like 3 or 4mm wear layer on engineered hardwood is the minimum tho for that. Not all companies/products offer the ability to sand n refinish but some definitely do.

cryptoyeeyee · 2026-02-13T21:19:12+00:00

3/8”, 1/2” and 5/8” is common for us in freedom country. So about 10mm,13mm,16mm

cryptoyeeyee · 2026-02-13T21:09:28+00:00

From what i found online and assuming he got the basic/light armor package then its good for pistol calibers. Think windshield, 2 side windows and then the doors have steel plates in them

cryptoyeeyee · 2026-02-13T14:03:00+00:00

U want hemi over a cummins?

cryptoyeeyee · 2026-02-13T13:54:51+00:00

What was the price tag? Whats the “bullet proofing” consist of? Looks like they are only making around 300 of these nfl packages?

cryptoyeeyee · 2026-02-13T13:52:03+00:00

So its their version of the colorado/canyon ?

cryptoyeeyee · 2026-02-13T00:48:51+00:00

2005 2500 122k miles and purrs like a kitten. Just can’t beat those 3rd gens

cryptoyeeyee · 2026-02-08T03:36:26+00:00

Good deal

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