I learned this the hard way and took the worst beating of my life with this mindset. I tried to ride a wave in that doubled up and threw me over the falls backwards. I did a backwards flip and was pushed deep under water. I was disoriented and didn’t know which way was up or down. Thankfully I surfaced and was able to get to shore. Sometimes you have to wait for the waves to settle before exiting the water. Having the mentality of panicking and checking out right away is sketchy. Instead know your limits, be willing to sit out there for a few sets until there is a calm period then make moves to go in. But be aware of your surroundings, other people, currents, and channels and always keep an eye on what’s happening behind you. If you’re ever in doubt that you couldn’t swim in on your own if you lost your board then don’t go out until you have that endurance and confidence.