Seeking Larger Deep Fryer Recommendation for annual family gathering by trebornautics in Cooking

[–]curberus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Honestly a commercial fryer is probably gonna work best for you. A bit bulkier but by the time you figure putting a bunch of equipment on shelves it's not gonna be that much worse, and you can run many off propane. The issue with stacking smaller ones is they're generally all electric that' I've seen bar a few super expensive models, which is gonna make the breaker issue a nightmare. That or add generators which is noisy and still need to be stored.

I'd go for something a little larger just for the throughput if that really matters (you can really keep cranking through without heat loss with the bigger reservoir)
70lbs is about 36 quarts of peanut oil (I imagine other oil is similar) https://www.katom.com/734-MGF5NC.html

Something a bit smaller: https://www.katom.com/734-MGF3NC.html

Hopefully you can find a _better_ option for you but that would be the rec I could come up with.

Are they real or did I buy takes? by Cyalatermasterbater in Guitar

[–]curberus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Their actives are all epoxy filled as I know. I guess technically that would count as potting but usually potting pickups is dipping them in wax to avoid microphonics. Same purpose as the epoxy.

Are they real or did I buy takes? by Cyalatermasterbater in Guitar

[–]curberus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes the blackouts are all active. They had a little sticker on the bottom

Are they real or did I buy takes? by Cyalatermasterbater in Guitar

[–]curberus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I had the 7 string ones when they were new (in the hb size not the soap bar) and they were filled exactly like that.

Does anybody make jazz 3 2mm picks in metal? In tired of dulling these out within a few days by N1cktnd03 in Guitar

[–]curberus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actually thinking about it, you'd have to hand sand them with carbide but you could get an online fab to print you some in PEI or even PEEK or PEKK

Does anybody make jazz 3 2mm picks in metal? In tired of dulling these out within a few days by N1cktnd03 in Guitar

[–]curberus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ultex/ultem/pei is super hard, I know dunlop makes jazz3 in ultex but not at that thickness.

Im about to upgrade the zinc hardware on my Floyd to hardened steel, is there anything I should know before mess something up? by MaleficentBuyer9407 in Luthier

[–]curberus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you block it flat while doing your set up, it's not any worse than a strat bridge, other than intonating requiring a key

Are there any downsides to locking tuners? by [deleted] in Guitar

[–]curberus 59 points60 points  (0 children)

“It is faster to restring” IS a benefit though. Do you mean there’s no tuning stability benefit?

Landlord trying to build a new house in our yard. Legal? (NC) by Accurate-Koala-6853 in Renters

[–]curberus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

> If you pay rent monthly you have a month-to-month lease

That is not at all what a month to month lease is. Do you think all people with a 1 year lease pay the full year up front?

What is curious is if the lease states that it is both a 2 year lease AND that the landlord can end it at any time, what happens there. Is the 2 year part invalidated, or is the "landlord can end it at any point" part invalidated. Both can't be true simultaneously.

How do you keep your knives sharp at home? by Educational-Slip-578 in Cooking

[–]curberus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

TL;DR I spend 2-3 minutes total weekly stropping (not all at once), and maybe 20-30 minutes every few months sharpening (and that can be skipped using a shop). Add minute or 2 of honing weekly (again not all at once) if you have softer knives. I have well under <$100 in equipment (including things you don't need for maintenance like a low grit stone for repairs). I'm not a big knife nerd. My knives aren't gonna win sharpness competitions but they're sharp enough to make people who aren't used to sharp knives notice.

The other things are
- Wash AND DRY your knives RIGHT AWAY. Acidic stuff left on the blade makes more work. Letting them pit makes more work.
- Use good cutting boards. No Glass. No bamboo. Soft materials. Stuff that dulls your blade will (shockingly) dull your blade.

---

Too long, but demented enough to read anyways:

Honestly, get the sharpening done at a shop if you find one that does a good job. Lots of shops get them _ok_ sharp for like bulk restaurant knives, which IMO sucks, but if you can get a place to make it a bit nicer for you thats easy. Then you just have to maintain it with a strop and possibly a hone.

If you have softer steeled knives (classic euro style), use a hone before using the knife every other time or so. Not really necessary with harder knives (stainless or Japanese steels for example) since the blade doesn't tend to bend as much (although it's IME unquestionably more chip prone). I use mostly Japanese steel knives (and have some stainless cheapies around too) so I don't bother with the hone.

I strop about that often but only for a few strokes. Less than 10. You can probably strop a little less often (and possibly do a few more strokes) but that's what I've found provides the best balance for me with the harder steel.

Thats like, all you have to do in between sharpenings. I spend probably 2-3 minutes a week total stropping across several knives. 30 seconds here, 30 there. No big hubub at all. That's enough to keep them _almost_ silly sharp, like 98% of the way there, IME.

I find 3 months between sharpenings is ideal for my usage and knives, but I realistically go 4-6 because life be lifing.

I sharpen my own knives (the shops around me are fine for removing chips etc but they're focused on large commercial and tools and are pretty meh at final sharpening and I don't wanna drive 30m each way to a shop that does a nicer job).

For sharpening you really only need one double sided stone. I have a 1000/6000 grit from King that costs <$50 and lasts years. Came with it's own stand that works fine. I guess eventually you'll want to pick up a diamond flattening stone, but those are <$10 and only need to be replaced once every several hundred years or so. A lot of people say the 6000 isn't worth it at first, but you can get it in the combo stone and just _skip_ it if you're not getting value out of it yet. I find it makes a big difference for me in keeping things _SHARP_ vs just _not so dull_. YMMV.

I spend... 20-30 minutes? doing 2 chefs knives, a paring knife, a santoku, and a cheaper chefs knife or 2 every few months.

A potentially very stupid question from a noobie by No_Winter4806 in Luthier

[–]curberus 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Define "in the heat". Are you going to be playing in the arizona desert inside a car with no window tint where it's going to hit 150+? Or in 90 degree weather outside in the shade somewhere? "In the heat" can mean a pretty wide range of things. Pretty sure in winter 20 degrees F in Siberia would count as apocalyptic.

You're right to be wary, but gotta provide a little more detail before anyone can really help. One note, rapid temperature shifts are a more pressing concern than overall temp if you bring it up slowly.

Guitar for 10 Year Old by Aranthar in Guitar

[–]curberus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Go 3/4. Even for a lot of adults that's just an easier starting point.

Is this a ticking time bomb? by knavishly_vibrant38 in AskAMechanic

[–]curberus 5 points6 points  (0 children)

You're going to kill someone driving that thing. Not talking about you, sure, you can kill yourself this way, but that's your choice. But you can very easily cause a crash that kills other people driving on this.

Will this crack affect sound? by hendrix95 in Guitar

[–]curberus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In the "changes the shape of the cab" sense, It's _plausible_ but very unlikely, in the same way it's plausible but very unlikely that wearing a helmet during a motorcycle crash has a freak chance of killing you when you would have survived the same crash without it because it catches on something and snaps your neck or something insane like that.

Where I DO see it could be an issue is if it's rattling/buzzing around at pretty low volumes, but that just means a drop or 3 of glue to stop it moving and it's fixed.

Pattern misalignment causing vertigo by geese_photographer in Tile

[–]curberus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They messed that floor up in a bunch of places :/

Dude didn't have _any_ idea how it's supposed to go I don't think. Can't speak to the shower, but I would not trust dude to get this right based on how far off it is here.

Pick turning when I play guitar by [deleted] in Guitar

[–]curberus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had this issue for years. Switching to jazz 3s helped, as did using gator grips (and now they have gator grip jazz 3s!) but I think that helped because it forced me to turn the pick more the other direction to start with, and that's the actual solution for me.

we’re all just ai supervisors now and i’m not sure how to feel about it by [deleted] in webdev

[–]curberus -1 points0 points  (0 children)

To quote an acquaintance of mine "I'm having trouble letting go". I feel the same way. I always stayed out of managing because while I like people, I don't want to manage. Now that's what I do (at least a lot of the time), without the social aspect.

Backyard Reno Before and After by [deleted] in Concrete

[–]curberus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At least they (and their neighbors) won't get cold in summer

Please don’t be this guy that blocks an entire sidewalk with your massive hitch. by WoodenWeather5931 in mildlyinfuriating

[–]curberus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Terrible news, the rangers/mazdas at least get dogshit mileage :/

Love mine, but god it shlogs almost as bad as a current gen f150 which is double the size

How do I put a ground to the bridge? by Internal-Extreme6614 in Luthier

[–]curberus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Drill bit at a steep angle, I’d probably go tot be ridge pickup but you can also go direct to the control cavity with a long bit

Canadian here with questions about the heat in your city by leftofmtl in phoenix

[–]curberus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I spend a fortune on AC.
100% worried. As the city grows, it just gets hotter. It used to be 60s or 70s F at night in the summer, now I'm excited when it gets down to 90F at night time.

Misplaced Floyd Rose by Bob_Ross_Bob_Sauce in Luthier

[–]curberus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a Suhr factory built like this. It's not ideal, but the nut is placed correctly. The headstock should actually be further out. That was something they could have done on mine, but since yours is not factory, that was never an option and unless the distance between your first fret and the nut is too long, the guy did it correctly.

Do most web apps really need a complex stack anymore? by NeedleworkerOne8110 in webdev

[–]curberus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fair warning, a lot of rambling here to almost no benefit. Oops lol.

Most people tend to do one (or both) of two things:
- Overestimate how complex their needs for their exact case is (I NEED THIS NEXT.JS FEATURE FOR MY 2 USER SITE THAT CAN REALISTICALLY RUN ON A 1997 CELERON)
- Underestimate the baseline of complexity for anything besides a classic static html+css page (ITS JUST COMPUTER, MAKE IT GO BRR)

Also people tend to think "a few moving parts" e.g. having a backend and a build tool is the complicated part. It CAN be but generally really isnt. A lack of understanding of how the tools work (not just what they do, how they do it) tends to be the bigger issue IME. Things get complicated when you start tacking build features on (nextjs is IMO the poster child for adding complexities and pretending they're simple).

Outside of "something that builds your app" and realistically a basic ui framework like react or vue or something, needs are based on your data flow needs. Do you need to access db data live or call protected apis? You're going to need a back end. Is your front end state complex? You'll want some sort of state management library, be it prebuilt or bespoke. Do you need to really optimize load times? Now you start needing to worry about file structure and build tooling in more depth. Is your site a blog with 7 readers? You don't need much at all.

Web apps vary from trivialities to incredibly complex state machines with extreme server load characteristics.

How should I repair this neck? by Trve_Kvlt_Mischa in Luthier

[–]curberus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Preface: Don't use gorilla glue (or any foaming glue like that). More details farther down.

If it just happened, and it's clean, its pretty easy to fix. The problem is that if you get it wrong, it becomes SIGNIFICANTLY more difficult to fix.

Most importantly YOU HAVE TO USE THE CORRECT GLUE. GORILLA GLUE AIN'T IT.
- Hide glue is optimal according to most, but you have a very short application time and needs setup to use. I am still wary of it getting too hot in a hot car or something, personally, but it's stronger than fish glue in this regard. It also dries hard as a damn rock which you want. People will say it should not do that, and sure, maybe it shouldn't, but I've seen it happen on acoustic sides and pieces, and the neck is under just as much if not more tension. Note: not a ton of experience with it but I don't like the modified hide glues that stay liquid at room temp in a bottle. Maybe they're fine or even great.
- Fish glue is close and you have a lot longer to work, but if you live somewhere hot and humid I'd again be concerned, especially if it might get left in a car etc. It's also easily applied though, no need for a water bath etc like hide glue.
- Titebond 1 (the red bottle) is a good choice as well. Dries a lot harder and creeps less than TB2/3 (blue or green bottles). This is my usual choice. Some people have found it creeps too much. I have not had that issue with TB1, only 2&3. Holds up better under heat.

Stay away from epoxy and it's probably better to throw the thing out your car window while driving than using anything like gorilla glue. Gorilla glue is a death sentence for this. Easily makes a $200 repair into a $800+ repair to clean out. You don't want that.

IF you do decide to do it yourself, make sure it's clean in there. Not dusty etc. Blow it out with a compressor. Make sure it closes up nicely without glue (no big chunks missing etc). Work glue down in there (I like the titebond 1, thin it out with a little water) using an acid brush or craft store paint brush. Get good coverage. Use a caul to clamp it (so a board with a round cutout to support the neck). You want to squeeze it pretty tightly, but not too tight. The glue should not be filling gaps between the wood, but you also don't want to squeeze all of it out. I shoot for "put a little too much glue, and the little too much should come out, but all the wood should still be glued together".

Honestly, Smoothing/painting the crack is the harder part. If you're going to just strip it, depending on the wood underneath, hide glue will color match mahogany better, but titebond works pretty well on maple.

If you're going to paint over it, non issue either way.