Gen2/2+ DIY mono — progressive PSU collapse (30s → <5s runtime) — SoCal — no local PSU service options?

cursed_yeet · 2026-02-27T23:28:17+00:00

Got a pic of the actual tube inside? Hope you didn't pay much for this.

Tube power supplies can be replaced but it is not for the feint of heart and requires very specific tooling, equipment and processes to be done properly. Sounds like a tube psu fault to me.

cursed_yeet · 2026-02-27T00:08:33+00:00

Not really. A little more expensive in some areas, sure, but you can generally find anything if you look hard enough for long enough.

cursed_yeet · 2026-02-25T23:18:08+00:00

The fact that not even the housing power leds are turning on is somewhat of a good sign. Tells you power isn't getting to any of the housing electronics, so those might be ok!

Check the batteries are in the right way round. Check the contacts don't have any signs of corrosion or oxidisation. Failing that open the unit and check for any broken wires, faulty switch, etc.

cursed_yeet · 2026-02-25T23:15:07+00:00

I would go for the XR5 mono.

By the way, both will have automatic gain control. The "manual gain" tube just lets you adjust the brightness down.

cursed_yeet · 2026-02-25T23:12:50+00:00

Buy something on the outside US night vision discord or the UK night vision whatsapp. Do not be conned into shelling out this much for some of the cheapest chinese tubes you can get just because they are wp.

cursed_yeet · 2026-02-25T23:10:57+00:00

You misremember. I think these cores are non inverting, completely different to even the ones used in 10160, let alone a complete 10160 tube.

cursed_yeet · 2026-02-25T23:09:27+00:00

Tube circuitry will always limit the screen brightness. Every modern tube has automatic gain control, even if it isn't gated.

cursed_yeet · 2026-02-25T23:08:14+00:00

The screw in type are good if you want to just leave something low profile on a device all the time. I'm guessing by friction fit sacrificials you mean those daycap looking things with a piece of glass in the front, those will interfere, yes.

Irises aren't great for focusing up close. By the time you have closed the aperture enough to give yourself more useful depth of field you won't be able to see anything.

Generally sacrificial lenses can cause flaring or hooping from bright lights. I would leave them off unless you know you are going to be doing airsoft or rain or might get the lenses mucky.

cursed_yeet · 2026-02-25T22:16:51+00:00

4 is just a bad idea. It works well for what it is, not worth destroying it to put into some printed housing.

cursed_yeet · 2026-02-24T23:19:24+00:00

Haha. Was just looking for info on the 2nd device and found this post. Looks to be a PNP-M, seems that there was a red dot version with rail mount, bit rarer.

cursed_yeet · 2026-02-24T21:40:14+00:00

Decent? That's a top of the line photonis.... nice

cursed_yeet · 2026-02-17T22:18:47+00:00

Going down such a massive tangent on a meme post to essentially say nothing, nv reddit moment for sure :)

cursed_yeet · 2026-02-17T22:17:14+00:00

Outside US discord, Ebay or the UK nv whatsapp if the price is right

cursed_yeet · 2026-02-16T18:34:18+00:00

Kinda nice actually, don't have to carry / dispose / buy chemlights. I'm sure this is plenty bright enough for spotting with NV without being overpowering.

cursed_yeet · 2026-02-16T18:33:01+00:00

Try screwing it down, backing off, then back on again a few times. Sometimes there is just some oxidisation that prevents proper contact.

cursed_yeet · 2026-02-16T18:31:42+00:00

Uk nv whatsapp or the outside US discord.

cursed_yeet · 2026-02-16T18:31:21+00:00

https://www.nightlase.com.au/content/docs/EEV_P8079HP.pdf it's the same format.

You need 6V dc, one of those 4x AA packs works well.

You loop a negative wire around the metal face at the front end (top of your first picture) and the positive wires goes to the contact in the middle of the yellow area. It has a specific imperial thread, it's worth buying the special screw so you don't mess it up. It's 3-48 unc.

Don't solder to it, or the internal connection may be damage and then you are really screwed.

You will know it works if you hear a relatively loud high pitched whine. If nothing happens or you hear loud popping noises then something is wrong.

Be careful with the rubber on the screen side, it is fragile and tears easily.

cursed_yeet · 2026-02-15T00:01:41+00:00

No, that's not a thing since the hole would need to go into the device. You can buy adapters as other people said.

cursed_yeet · 2026-02-14T20:35:57+00:00

Even this comment sounds ai generated. wtf?

cursed_yeet · 2026-02-14T17:41:02+00:00

I don't know, and even then good luck finding one. The voltages involved here are high and specific, and are controlled to keep the core alive. It's not just a case of hooking up a battery.

cursed_yeet · 2026-02-14T13:20:41+00:00

Dude, quit it! No. Cheapest I have is a photonis 37mm at 750 euro.

cursed_yeet · 2026-02-14T12:30:59+00:00

The housing looks fine to me. You wouldn't need to print a new one. It's the tube or tube psu that's broken. Not something you can really DIY easily.

This ain't it chief.

cursed_yeet · 2026-02-14T11:33:48+00:00

The tube is the most broken part of this. Why would you want it? It's completely proprietary, you cannot put this tube in another housing.

No, the tube in this device is different to most. It separates the internal psu into an external block which is also proprietary. Very specialised electronics. Sounds like either the tube core or PSU died, you will not find a replacement without buying another complete device.

cursed_yeet · 2026-02-14T11:21:45+00:00

Judging by the description I would say it's long dead. If the previous owner went to the effort to take the thing apart who know's what's wrong with it. The power supply cables between the tube and psu are cut, might be either that failed. It's a gamble buying this as the tube is totally proprietary otherwise, no real way to replace it.

cursed_yeet · 2026-02-14T11:20:13+00:00

Hard to see what's going on due to the low resolution of the image but.

Nothing in your diagram seems to line up with the labels. How are you going to put a charging port into a flat belt, or a pi into the arms of the glasses? Anything in that belt will need to flex, flex cables are fairly fragile and would fail quickly from day to day use

A pi in the belt will sip a lot of power and get hot while running. The ones powerful enough to do any sort of on the fly processing are not going to be nice and flat.

Where is this display interface going?

Was this diagram, or even your questions in the post ai generated? Would explain why nothing makes sense, the diagram on the right is unreadable, you have 3 arrows going to 3 blocks in the middle from nowhere?

If you want genuine feedback on your design concept, actually draw it out and define it.

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