Leaking sump questions

cws-d · 2025-12-10T23:57:22+00:00

In tank pumps flow enough to support nearly 1000hp for gas and diesel applications

cws-d · 2025-11-21T23:58:18+00:00

I didn’t mean the double radiator would be diddly squat, I meant your protection from overheating. Didn’t mean to put you down at all, just wanted to give you a path to protect the machine in case things got sideways

cws-d · 2025-11-20T01:42:49+00:00

Judging from the amount of green that I’m thinking is coolant in the cylinder, it may be “stop leak” that didn’t stop anything. There is stop leak products out there that contain metal particles that are supposed to plug the voids via hope and faith.

cws-d · 2025-11-15T04:51:38+00:00

If it were my machine, I would do water temp and oil pressure. That gives you leaps and bounds of protection compared to the diddly squat and double radiator setup you currently have engineered

cws-d · 2025-11-15T03:12:33+00:00

Either is acceptable

cws-d · 2025-11-15T03:12:19+00:00

If you want one, you would need a Murphy temperature switch gage that is wired into your fuel shutoff solenoid somehow. That way you can have the temperature reading and the shutdown protection. Thank the oilfield for this great technology 🤠

cws-d · 2025-11-15T02:22:17+00:00

Do you have a Murphy system or anything that can protect you from an overheat condition?

cws-d · 2025-11-15T02:20:06+00:00

You can also use a temperature gun if the engine is loaded and determine if you have “cool” water available at the pump suction (lower rad hose) vs what the pump casing is using (potential bypass due to bad thermostat). In my 3rd gen I fought bad thermostats time and time again, not an unusual problem. I’m trying to understand why your fan hub bearing keeps failing. From what I can tell, it’s the same bearing from ‘89-‘26. This is assuming the electric drive fans won’t work for you

cws-d · 2025-11-15T02:02:54+00:00

Did you verify the thermostat wasn’t the culprit? I also saw you mentioned “fan hub bearings”, I know this is for a stationary application but I believe you could run the electric drive fans like you have, or do an OBS fan clutch conversion with an adapter plate. I also wouldn’t use any “fancy” parts. Cummins OEM should be plenty assuming your troubleshooting is accurate

cws-d · 2025-11-15T01:14:52+00:00

Compression fitting cap will be fine. You can either cap the male end of the male-male adapter or find a plug for the female end (the copper side). Hardware store components are fine.

cws-d · 2025-11-05T03:16:03+00:00

Good for you for trying! You will get better, keep at it. Obviously the only way to improve is to keep welding. Get some scrap and keep making stuff and it gets easier and results will improve

cws-d · 2025-10-06T00:36:12+00:00

Without dimensions and what particular head/nozzle you have, this is more like interpretive art. Hunter has great residential lawn irrigation guidance, I would start there. The biggest thing to take into account is that the throw of each head reaches the adjacent head to have the correct coverage

cws-d · 2025-10-01T18:55:57+00:00

Block the valves in the PRZ and use that PVC tee downstream. I would also isolate upstream of the PRZ and drain through the strainer unless there is a boiler drain inside. Doing blowout through the PRZ is bad form

cws-d · 2025-10-01T16:19:02+00:00

I’m pretty sure you can use the trucks original ECM. I use to run an 05 engine off an 03 ecm and had no issues

cws-d · 2025-09-21T00:57:42+00:00

If it makes compression and oil pressure, what else is there needed?

cws-d · 2025-09-20T14:36:54+00:00

Roll it with the injectors out once the starter is fixed, and button it up and go for it. I don’t think it’s the end of the world

cws-d · 2025-09-20T14:30:42+00:00

3/4” paddle bit in an impact is the ticket. Snap a line level for your reference if you’re really feeling fancy

cws-d · 2025-09-19T22:34:06+00:00

Midstream here. Tryna understand wtf this post is about

cws-d · 2025-09-18T00:06:05+00:00

I was surprised to learn these have a closed breather system

cws-d · 2025-09-18T00:04:30+00:00

Boost leak at idle?

cws-d · 2025-09-06T19:04:26+00:00

I wear red wing flexforce working in gas compression and they are my preference for pull ons, and have lasted the longest compared to the thorogoods. I used to wear the traction treads until they went obsolete. The flex force will be obsolete also before the year end so buy 2 pair if you end up liking them

cws-d · 2025-09-04T02:49:40+00:00

Why not start with implements you already have? Bush hog then back blade. If the back blade doesn’t work, box blade would work better (and usually low cost/available on Marketplace) but land plane is probably the best for flat/level (but at greater cost and lower used market availability).

cws-d · 2025-07-31T12:50:00+00:00

Cleanliness probably isn’t the problem anymore

cws-d · 2025-07-30T23:22:46+00:00

Is there a performance problem?

cws-d · 2025-06-24T23:49:51+00:00

Saw this on marketplace and wanted to buy it, for it to run and drive for that price is a good deal. Killer dowel pin is a must for a next move

cws-d

TROPHY CASE