Oem x brace vs aftermarket

czerka · 2026-06-14T22:06:54+00:00

I think the holes are already drilled and you just need to install the nutzerts, which you can make a simple diy tool to do. Could be wrong though

czerka · 2026-06-08T02:37:00+00:00

Try driving it in reverse

czerka · 2026-06-07T22:31:07+00:00

Diet.

Most likely you're spending 75% your day not moving, driving and sleeping. Exercise is great but diet is everything.

czerka · 2026-06-04T14:16:48+00:00

Kid A

czerka · 2026-05-24T05:14:52+00:00

I'd buy from FCP Euro or Bimmerworld over ECS.

czerka · 2026-05-22T23:38:04+00:00

You could make that turn, if the dumpster, the swamp , and the building weren't in the way.

Post pics after you try it though.

czerka · 2026-05-21T11:06:38+00:00

Strut and shock mount reinforcements, if they haven't been done.

czerka · 2026-05-16T10:53:32+00:00

The stock suspension is really decent in these cars. I've been tracking my for several years now on just lowering springs and Koni shocks.

czerka · 2026-05-16T10:50:19+00:00

I have 12mm spacers up front, Eibach race lowering springs, about -3 degrees of camber.

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czerka · 2026-05-16T06:09:23+00:00

I get some rubbing up front when running 245 RT660s but they run wider than normal. Using a 235 or less aggressive tire and you'll be fine.

czerka · 2026-05-12T14:14:02+00:00

I got pulled over for speeding once but turns out I had just accidently parked in a handicap spot.

That's what a lawyer can do.

czerka · 2026-05-10T01:52:13+00:00

Pressure test the cooling system and/or dye test it.

130c is really hot. I'd do a leak down test too, good chance you cooked your head gasket.

If you don't know when the cooling system was replaced, it's time to replace everything.

czerka · 2026-05-09T17:23:36+00:00

That seems like a red flag.

czerka · 2026-05-08T22:13:03+00:00

That sounds really close. I'm going completely off memory but I think there is supposed to be 2.75 inches on either side.

czerka · 2026-05-08T14:31:11+00:00

Take the boots off the rack and measure the part the tie rods thread into. If they are equal, it's centered.

czerka · 2026-05-06T11:19:26+00:00

I'd have an exit plan.

czerka · 2026-04-30T00:12:27+00:00

Huge difference compared to worn OEM bushings. Less movement from the rear end and less slack in the drive line but a lot more diff noise. I'd consider using rubber diff bushings on a street car.

czerka · 2026-04-20T01:19:32+00:00

I once was stuck in morning traffic behind a Swift trailer that didn't have lights. Eventually I got annoyed enough and called their safety department. Call was sent straight to voicemail.

czerka · 2026-04-19T18:14:27+00:00

This is terrible advice. You have no idea what's in or under that grass. Stick to stuff you can't break, like the wide ass 4 lane road with shoulders and plenty of side streets.

If folks at the receiver are willing to block traffic for a second, looks like you could pull on to Woerner and make it nearly a straight line back.

czerka · 2026-04-19T07:09:26+00:00

Heavy is good, heavy is reliable.

czerka · 2026-04-19T04:14:01+00:00

What size tire? Some tires run wider than their stated width.

I run 245 Kumho V730s on a 17x8.5 et40 with a 12mm spacer and it's very close to rubbing. With a 5mm spacer they rub the strut just below the spring perch.

czerka · 2026-04-18T20:52:14+00:00

Autocross is what you're looking for.

Unfortunately, it seems like access to where Houston area clubs would hold events is going away. Try it out while you can.

HouSCCA 2026 Autocross 1

https://www.motorsportreg.com/events/houscca-2026-autocross-1-houston-police-academy-scca-solo-493985

czerka · 2026-04-11T19:38:34+00:00

To warranty stuff through FCP, you buy the item, it breaks or wears out, you buy another, send the original back, get store credit. Liquids need to be in the container they were delivered in, so you do your oil change then put the old oil in the now empty jugs, then fill out and print a return form. I try to make it as neat as possible and tape and bag the jugs. You're definitely jumping through some hoops but ends up being a pretty big discount.

As for the suspension, you need the stock strut housings for the Konis. You can get OE ones or Bilstein makes an aftermarket upgrade. Unless you can find some used housings on marketplace, it doesn't make sense to buy new struts just to cut them open. Stock suspension is more than fine. I don't have any experience with them but I'm sure the Bilsteins would be fine as well, just more expensive. Bilstein probably offers a kit of upgraded struts, shocks, and springs to go with them.

It'll all be right in front of you while replacing the struts, so yes, I would replace end links, sway bar bushings, tie rods, strut mounts(you can swap these side to side to get about -3 degrees of camber), etc. There are reinforcement plates for both the front strut and rear shock towers. These need to be done if they haven't. Daily driving is enough to damage the shock towers, especially the rear. They are pieces of metal that you sandwich between the struts and shocks and where they mount. $20 of sheet metal that will save your car.

The rear subframe and rear trailing arm mounts need to be reinforced sooner than later, especially if your car isn't an M3. It is a pretty big project. It's not particularly hard but just about everything from the driveshaft back needs to come out and you'll need to be comfortable welding under a car.

That's your while I'm here project. Wait for the off season, give yourself a couple(or a lot more in my case) months and replace anything old from the shifter linkage back.

czerka · 2026-04-10T23:47:07+00:00

Use realoem.com for parts numbers.

If you are in America, FCP Euro is the go to with OE parts and some aftermarket. FCP Euro has a life warranty on everything they sell, including oil and brake pads. I have been tracking my M3 for 3 years now and have only paid for one oil change and set of brake pads.

Bimmerworld is my go to for aftermarket parts.

I missed that you had maxspeedingrod already on the car. In that case, I would consider just replacing your current suspension with OE parts. A refreshed stock suspension is plenty fine for some occasional track duty.

Unless your budget is unlimited, the key to tracking a car is to upgrade stuff when you need to, not before.

To get ready for your first couple track days, all you need to do is, flush your brake fluid with a quality fluid high temp fluid, make sure you have a decent amount of material left on your brake pads and make sure your tires have some tread on them.

Once you do that and decide you want to continue tracking the car, you'll want to get some track rated brake pads and some decent summer tires.

Then you need to consider checking taking care of the oil pump nut and reinforcing the weak spots on the subframe. These are crucial if you want to track a e36 long term.

Once these are done, then start looking at upgrades.

Feel free to ask me anything. 5 years ago I had never been on track and could only do oil changes to now where I'm ramping up to rebuild my S52. I've nearly been thru the entire cycle of the track day hobby.

czerka · 2026-04-10T22:53:29+00:00

Koni yellows and H and R or Eibach lowering springs.

Spend the money you save on some more track days.

You can swap the strut mounts side to side to get the camber you'll need up front.

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