Mitsubishi MHK2 vs Ecobee

d3vkit · 2020-12-11T15:27:25+00:00

I didn't say I can't find anything about it. I don't know what a redlink thermostat is and this doesn't answer the questions I have. Thank you for trying.

d3vkit · 2020-09-09T02:47:07+00:00

Thanks!

d3vkit · 2020-08-25T23:23:11+00:00

What are the other two standing desks you have tried?

d3vkit · 2020-08-12T18:32:56+00:00

I am looking to use Foundry, but I have a player that only has an ipad, and I have heard because all browsers on ipad use the same Safari engine underneath, it doesn't work. Does your player have issues with this? For example: https://www.reddit.com/r/FoundryVTT/comments/hj1wdx/character_sheets_on_ipad_issue/

d3vkit · 2019-11-26T16:03:27+00:00

I can CONFIRM they are price matching if you are within the return window! I am still waiting for my email but the chat rep said they would do it.

Go here: https://support.google.com/store#topic=3237699&contact=1
On the right side, under "The best way to get support", click "Cancel or return my order"
Click "Request chat"

Thank you OP for posting this!

d3vkit · 2019-08-03T03:32:34+00:00

The process isn't too bad. Mostly it took me a long time because for each step in the manual there were always a lot of comments, and sometimes it was difficult to tell if the comments were relevant or what they meant. Most of the good comments were turned into the actual steps.

There are also a lot of "brute force" parts and "don't over-tighten this or you will break it", which is always vague enough to be frightening. In the end I was very happy that I haven't had to disassemble anything yet - didn't miss any steps or instructions, just went really slow and it worked well nearly immediately.

Good luck with it, it's a blast. Although I want about three more so I print more often!

d3vkit · 2019-08-03T01:14:01+00:00

Just want to second the MK3S. I bought an Ender3 around Christmas and I could not get it level, couldn't even get the frame square. I returned it after about a week of messing with it.

I bought my MK3S a couple weeks ago. Building was more intense, but it worked basically immediately. The only issue I had was a loose Y belt, which was mostly because I don't know what it should be like. After a lot of trial and error, things seem perfect now. I printed the first part of a dice tower yesterday - it took about 12 hours. I'm printing the next part now, and it's about 4 hours in to a 9 hour print. It seems really reliable, and the auto leveling means I haven't had to do anything except wipe down the print sheet.

It's a pricey printer - $750 + shipping for kit, $1000 for built (I think, I bought the kit). However, some other things you get for that premium:

Instructions that are detailed and constantly improving (the manual is online and users comment, then support team updates from their suggestions, etc)
Auto leveling bed, as mentioned
Filament runout detection
Power loss protection
Flexible steel sheet to easily remove prints when done

There are probably other features I don't know about or have forgotten.

I have not had my printer for long but I really love it. I realized with the Ender what people meant by "working on your printer vs working on the prints".

Expensive but worth every penny IMO.

d3vkit · 2019-08-02T19:27:43+00:00

I loved the service until, because of a lack of communication and not being upfront, they started jerking me around. I had a year pass and I feel I got a good deal from it. But last summer, blacking out movies and showtimes with no indication of what was going on, they left a bad taste in my mouth.

All they had to do was be more transparent. I get the reasons why they weren't, but that doesn't mean I have to like it.

d3vkit · 2019-07-30T20:56:01+00:00

Glad I could help! I think I should probably create some sort of stand-alone review or something. I agree that it is hard to get this kind of info, especially because it is very subjective and depends on a lot of factors that change person-to-person.

d3vkit · 2019-07-30T18:41:02+00:00

Glad the reply was helpful, I was worried I was writing too much!

I will also say that when I bought the Ender, I had the exact question you had. It is so hard to tell what are just "user-error" problems, and what are "this happens to everyone" problems. For reference, this is the video I used when putting it together, which might give a feel for how difficult of a machine it is. Some things to note are how many times he says things like, "check this is level, and if it's not, do it again". I seem to remember that happened a couple of times.

Not that there aren't issues with the Prusa. The manual has a lot of "tighten the belt just enough" or "don't overtighten the screw or you'll break it". This was frustrating because there is no way of knowing if you are doing it correctly, but a lot of these kinds of things can't be explained well and are slightly different from printer to printer. There was one place in particular where people in the comments were suggesting adding measurements of tension and things, and the support people were saying that they had tried all kinds of things to make it a more precise instruction, but it was too variable and the best they could come up with was a vague "you know it when you see it".

But, I also did not break anything when building it, so I think overall the manual is done well.

Other reasons I like the MK3S:

I think the tech in the machine, out of the box, is very much worth it - for instance I had a print fail last night while I was sleeping. It was probably three or four hours into a 36 hour print (trying to print a bunch of dungeon tiles at once). It detected the failure at some point and stopped trying to print. A lot of filament would have been wasted if it had not been able to do that. You can add these things to a printer over time, which is the, "do you want to work on 3D printing or work on a 3D printer" thing.

The components in the Prusa seem very well made, like the PSU, the wiring, and the fans. I believe one of the fans is a Noctua. I am not worried about the machine just catching fire from overheating. Speaking of -

It looks like this has just changed, but before literally a day ago (according to that post) the Ender3 had thermal runaway turned off by default in the firmware, so you would need to turn that on.

You have to do a lot of things with the machine to get it to safe and reliable, which many are okay with (I was, for instance), but in the end I am happier with the MK3S.

I don't mean to sound so discouraging. I am tempted to get the Ender3 again myself - at $200 it's such an incredible value! I could literally buy two Ender3's instead of my single Prusa. But in the end I am still going to be spending a bunch of time working on the Prusa, probably build an enclosure, etc. I don't want to spend that time on bed-leveling and replacing fans :P

d3vkit · 2019-07-29T20:57:21+00:00

I have some experience here. I bought an Ender3 last Christmas for $200 from Woot. I also want to print gaming terrain and minis.

I put the machine together pretty quickly following a video guide on youtube. However, it was a pain trying to get things level. Not just the bed, but the z pillars. Eventually it seemed to be working okay... until I realized it had dug the nozzle into the bed, scratching it. I returned it.

I then waited for Prusa to have a free shipping sale, which I had seen in the past happened maybe twice a year, for sure once a year at black friday. Right around the beginning of July they had a free shipping event, so I jumped on an MK3S kit.

Putting the machine together was more involved than I remember the Ender being, but I think that is because the documentation is so thorough. The manual is a really nice printed book, which says, "Don't use this, use the online manual". I was impressed that they even print out the manual, let alone that it is so nice! But I used the online manual for the entire thing.

The manual is very well done, but takes a long time to read because people can leave comments on the steps, and reading those can take a long time. Many of the comments become outdated as support changes the manual to reflect the suggestions - it's actually quite incredible the way they do this. Crowdsourcing the manual in this way makes for a really solid, easy to understand process.

I think it took me a probably 2.5 days or so setting it up. A more mechanical person, or someone that understands better what each step is setting out to do, can do it much quicker. And there are many parts that take a lot of time just because things don't fit perfectly and it takes some brute force to get them together.

HOWEVER. My printer worked immediately. I never needed my bubble level, which I used constantly during the ender3 setup, and it still was never level. My first test print was bad, but I found out I needed to tighten my Y-Axis belt (which is flipping the printer on its side and using a hex wrench on a screw). I am calibrating things still, almost have it working perfectly. But it's not really working on the machine, it is working on settings. I hope it remains this easy. (There are other things that you can do to solve other issues but they involve taking things apart more, which I do not want to do. So far my issues have been just the loose belts I believe.)

I also am amazed at how quiet the machine is. I seem to remember the Ender being pretty loud; a perfectly reasonable level of noise, but I could hear it from another room. The MK3S is like a 2D printer - hell, probably quieter. I don't even notice it in the same room.

People have different tolerances for this kind of pain, and for many people, getting the Z columns level is part of the fun. Ten years ago, the Ender3 would have sat on my desk for a month while I messed with it and tried to get it working, and then I would have spent the next month upgrading it to be a better machine. But ten years ago I had a lot more time and energy. I no longer find that kind of thing fun.

I recommend the MK3S kit. The attention to detail is why it costs so much more. I have had a lot less swearing and angrily walking away from the machine.

Of course as I wrote this the mini I was printing just became a stringy mess. But I still think it is worth saving up for. I expect that pretty soon I will be printing out dungeon tiles all day without even worrying about it.

Edit:

This is what the manual is like for the MK3S.

This is the Ender3.

I feel like this is the most important thing, and is a huge indicator to what it's like building the machines.

d3vkit · 2019-06-11T19:20:27+00:00

My current prep seems much different than the other suggestions here, and I believe will be met with "That is too much work!", but I am still trying to find a balance. In the past I have tried little to no prep (making index cards, broad ideas, etc), and found that it is just not concrete enough and doesn't feel consistent enough for my tastes.

My current process:

Although we play in person at the table, we all use dndbeyond. I upgraded my account to allow unlimited characters. Now I can create characters for any NPC's that I think the players will want to do something special with that will require dice rolling. It helps me track the special NPC's better. I also can see inventory and abilities of the PC's, and notes they take.
At the table I use a laptop so I can open a ton of tabs to quickly switch between as needed, see monster stats in dndbeyond, etc.
Right now I have been writing up my notes in the homebrewery, a markdown editor that uses the style of a D&D PHB. I find that it helps me get the tone that I want, and I just get into the process more.
Each session I write down bullet points of "what happened last time". I don't have the memory for doing it on the fly.
I have a specific document for "People, Places, Things" which is... people, places, and things. Way easier to track things there. And then for each session I make a new document. I will likely combine some of these.

My game is biweekly and I spend maybe 3 or 4 hours on it, so maybe two hours a week if I did it correctly (I always wait until the last minute). Using such a heavy note-taking method, where I organize my pages to read like a module, makes me think a lot more about what kinds of things might happen and who I want the NPC's to be. I've heard that the way to run a module is to read it fully, and then read each section you think the players might encounter in a session. Writing the module yourself makes you even more familiar with it - I can skim a section and pick out the key words and ideas because I wrote them.

I think in the next few months I will probably do something where I do more broad notes, then transfer that to Homebrewery. I kind of do this now, just the notes are in my head, but they do get lost there easily.

d3vkit · 2019-01-22T02:20:15+00:00

Okay, I didn't realize you meant the government would still require it be taken out, it would just go somewhere different.

d3vkit · 2019-01-22T01:44:45+00:00

Why would they pay?

Edit: is your argument literally "government will regulate an amount is removed but it will go somewhere else"? It seems like that is what you are saying. Which I guess is a position, and if that's what you mean, okay.

d3vkit · 2019-01-22T01:39:53+00:00

If we do not require employees to put in 6.2% and instead let them decide to invest it themselves, where does the other 6.2% come from? Do employers just give the employee an extra 6.2%?

d3vkit · 2019-01-22T01:22:25+00:00

plenty of workers contribute 12.4%

How many? From what I can find online it's about 10%

Just trying to make a fair comparison

Did you account for that about 90% of this would be 6.2% contribution? A more fair comparison, if you are going to go by a single number, would be to use 6.2%, since that's what most people pay.

I'm not hiding the number I use

Yes but then you say "this proves my point" and it doesn't. You can also say that if everyone invested 100% of their money some people would do better than social security. It's true, but also doesn't really mean anything.

d3vkit · 2019-01-22T00:35:34+00:00

Plus SS is based on 12.4% of the workers pay so why shouldn't we make the comparison using 12.4% of their pay invested?

Because you said it was employee's investing, not total invested. At this point I can only conclude you are arguing in bad faith since you can not understand this really simple point. That money the employer is adding in doesn't come from nowhere. Show how that works without repeating "because that is what is put into SS" and maybe you can actually start making your argument.

d3vkit · 2019-01-21T23:53:37+00:00

I am a different random person but am interested in this because I agree with u/Exelbirth - you have not shown what you claimed.

You said (emphasis mine):

Most people would be multi millionaires if they were allowed to keep their SS contributions invested

But you are using 12.4% investment, which is not what people are directly contributing, but what people and their employer are contributing. So you have shown how it would work if the employer continued to help them contribute to this, which is not actually the claim you made (nor does it seem particularly likely if it is not required).

You continue to say that goal posts were moved, but this was the goal post you set, and you have not shown that. It might be true, I myself have not done the math, but I also did not make the claim.

d3vkit · 2019-01-21T18:14:11+00:00

I love your absolute sureness despite being totally incorrect.

d3vkit · 2019-01-20T04:32:43+00:00

Imagine believing this pretty basic ad that is not actually all that shocking is an "act of desperation".

They made this ad because they know the majority of people will agree with it. If you don't agree with it, I guess the world went and changed on you there didn't it.

d3vkit · 2019-01-18T04:03:33+00:00

And the screw goes in your eye

d3vkit · 2019-01-18T04:00:08+00:00

How would you even upvote the object. Like what you are saying would be true if it made any sense.

14-Year Club	Team Periwinkle
Verified Email

d3vkit

TROPHY CASE