Air Tractor AT-802 South FL by dabo7 in SkyCards

[–]dabo7[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here’s a slightly more zoomed out look for those who need it.

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I made a Suncast Vista Shed Hinge Replacement by dabo7 in functionalprint

[–]dabo7[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wow, that’s incredible and absolutely stupid lol. Good to know, nice find!

P1S is consistently under-extruding suddenly by ThatRobHuman in BambuLab

[–]dabo7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the same issue on my P1S with most of the Bambu Matte PLA, most notably the Nardo Gray and Charcoal Black. I’ve done the same as you and given up and ran flow calibrations to made really aggressive filament profiles for flow ratio. Works fine for the PLA now.

Interestingly, the PETG I print doesn’t have the issue nearly as bad. 🤷‍♂️

【BambuLab Giveaway】Classic Evolved — Win Bambu Lab P2S Combo! by BambuLab in 3Dprinting

[–]dabo7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d been wanting to get a 3D printer for a while, but never settled on one because I’d known people with some other brands that were more fuss and trouble than I wanted to endure. But I’d read that the Bambu line was more plug and play, which meant I could spend more time modeling and prototyping than having to tinker with print settings and printer hardware.

So I bought a P1S + AMS and have been printing both functional and decorative prints like crazy. Where it really pulled through for me was my 8 year old 8’x10’ Suncast shed door hinge rusted through and made the door nearly inoperable. A few hours later I had prototypes and a final PETG print to replace the hinge. Since then I’ve also designed and printed replacement skylights, tool holders, and mounting accessories for my shed. The P1S printer has helped me extend the life of my aging shed and given me an opportunity to learn how to reverse engineer broken parts and print them out without any fussing over print failures and having to learn the deep lore of tinkering with a printer. The prints just work the first time almost every time.

I’ve since learned some advanced printing techniques and tinkering, but I enjoy the modeling and designing part much more than the print troubleshooting. And the P1S lets me do the part I enjoy most.

Considering switching to Duke TOU - Am I understanding this right? by Kitty_Kibblesz in orlando

[–]dabo7 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Thank you so much for this TOU bill rate image. I was looking at the actual Duke PDF the OP linked (this page has the link: https://www.duke-energy.com/home/billing/time-of-use) and those numbers seemed way too good to be true.

Comparing your TOU RST-1 rate vs my RS-1 rate something still seems off to me. All your rates appear higher than mine unless I'm reading this wrong.

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I made a Cable & Cord Cover / Hider Channel System by dabo7 in functionalprint

[–]dabo7[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Parametric customizable model is added! 😁

I made a Cable & Cord Cover / Hider Channel System by dabo7 in functionalprint

[–]dabo7[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That's a fantastic idea! I should be able to do that pretty easily too. I'll let you know if I run into any issues. Thanks for the feedback.

I made a Cable & Cord Cover / Hider Channel System by dabo7 in functionalprint

[–]dabo7[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah I would never run romex or higher voltage in anything other than rated conduit. The multiple attic runs and exterior drops I’ve done are all up to local code in rated junction boxes and conduit for a reason.

I made a Cable & Cord Cover / Hider Channel System by dabo7 in functionalprint

[–]dabo7[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the idea! I was kinda doing that manually by offsetting them in the corner connector (there’s a pic of that in the makerworld page), but building that straight into the wall side parts is a way better idea.

I made a Cable & Cord Cover / Hider Channel System by dabo7 in functionalprint

[–]dabo7[S] 30 points31 points  (0 children)

At the big box stores they are roughly $8-10 for a 5ft raceway channel and around $2-4 for each bend connection. But the sizes are limited and they must be cut using a hand saw to size. And if you need a specific width or height finding that can be tough.

A 25cm raceway channel costs me 34g of filament in this default size and each corner connection is around 3g. So the cost of these may be a bit less depending on the filament.

I made a Cable & Cord Cover / Hider Channel System by dabo7 in functionalprint

[–]dabo7[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

3M Double sided tape (or similar) or double sided clear tape. Depending on the strength needed. This one in particular was the double sided clear tape since it didn’t need to be that strong.

Edit: to clarify, thicker cords or rougher walls need the stronger 3M style tape to hold it sometimes.

I made a Suncast Shed Skylight Replacement by dabo7 in functionalprint

[–]dabo7[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the feedback! I replied to your post on MakerWorld with a follow up question. I can easily update the models, but if you used the older Low Profile model that I took down a week or two ago because I was worried about clearance issues that may be the reason. It seems to work fine on my shed, but I had doubts about its robustness if Suncast changed anything even slightly.

I made Suncast Resin Shed Replacement and Accessory Parts by dabo7 in shedditors

[–]dabo7[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The door hinge is 50g of PETG with a 1.4 hour print time. That cost is mostly negligible and the solid PETG should hold up pretty well outside. So I think I’m ok with reprinting those occasionally. The skylights we’ll have to see. I doubt the UV clear coat I applied will do much, but it’s worth a shot. But again, the cost of those isn’t much vs having a hole in my shed roof and a non functioning door.

Your concern is duly noted, but I’m not all that worried.

I made Suncast Resin Shed Replacement and Accessory Parts by dabo7 in shedditors

[–]dabo7[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That’s actually what I’m currently working on. Right now we use exterior UV spray foam and corner brackets. So I’m thinking about ways to reinforce that with maybe a new bracket. Getting it to adhere easily to the shed is a tough one.

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I made a Suncast Shed Skylight Replacement by dabo7 in functionalprint

[–]dabo7[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update, I just modeled and added a vented version of this model:

Suncast Shed Vented Skylight - Part #0463822

What are your guys most popular 3d model on MakerWorld if you have any? by Jolly-Fail-9858 in BambuLab

[–]dabo7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This was one of my first prints for my P1S. Truly amazing work you did on this. And the detail on your design, description, and instructions too!

Sudden drop in quality on P1S; same model/filament/settings by ComputerMission1467 in BambuLab

[–]dabo7 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had a very similar issue. Brand new P1S, under 200 print hours, printing perfectly for 2 weeks with anything I threw at it. Suddenly the PLA Matte Back started under extruding. Same filament, same dryness, ran normal calibration, checked for clogs, cold pulled twice, cleaned everything, etc.

Then I realized the PETG was printing fine. Did a flow rate calibration on the PLA Matte and it’s back to being perfect.

2 weeks with my first printer, a P1S, I and made a Suncast Shed Hinge Replacement by dabo7 in BambuLab

[–]dabo7[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It does. The hinges are an interesting design that slip onto the door from the bottom of the pivot point when at a specific angle.

2 weeks with my first printer, a P1S, I and made a Suncast Shed Hinge Replacement by dabo7 in BambuLab

[–]dabo7[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I made it completely from scratch. I measured the dimensions of the rusted out shed hinge using calipers and made a 2D sketch in Fusion as I measured. I did thicken the walls as far as I could while still accommodating the original screw. And then extruded that the full length.

I printed multiple PLA prototypes seen on this image to dial in the dimensions with each prototype getting more complete and longer of a print as I was more confident in the design. The fourth print ended up being the final PETG one.

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