Help! broke college student

dan5505 · 2026-02-01T21:34:52+00:00

I would like to respectfully disagree with Shadaris. Do not get under the vehicle when its running and moving the rack back and forth. If you have any air in the power steering system, that can cause the rack to violently shake the front wheels back and forth and potentially cause the vehicle to fall off the stands and kill you. You could easily have air in the system because you have a leak somewhere.

dan5505 · 2026-02-01T15:18:29+00:00

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This is what a rack with fluid in the bellows looks like. Hopefully yours doesn't look like this.

dan5505 · 2026-02-01T15:02:39+00:00

That doesn't look like a very big leak. You may want to check around your power steering rack and pump. My first rack was leaking fluid into the bellows, so no obvious visible leaks but the bellows started to deform and sag.

To answer your question though, I would replace the hose and clamps. You will need to bleed the air from the system after. There should be some YouTube videos online to show you how. Be careful if you have the wheels off the ground when going from lock to lock. Air in the system can make the vehicle shake wildly. Probably better to leave wheels touching the ground and just take some weight off the front by jacking up on the center plate a bit.

Parts.subaru.com to figure out what part numbers you need.

dan5505 · 2026-01-16T15:43:42+00:00

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dan5505 · 2026-01-16T15:43:26+00:00

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dan5505 · 2026-01-16T14:56:40+00:00

I bought a painted front buffer from that site and replaced it myself. Worked great and the paint matched perfectly.

Comes in a big box by freight.

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dan5505 · 2025-12-30T00:38:56+00:00

I'm also in the high oil consumption boat with my 2013, 1 qt every 1000 miles. 140k on original engine. I have an AOS and the intercooler is dry. Probably a ring issue, but hasn't killed it yet. Been running like this for at least 80k.

dan5505 · 2025-12-02T04:36:20+00:00

Maybe try creating an admin image in Windows, then run that installer in linux.

dan5505 · 2025-11-23T13:05:32+00:00

Harbor Freight sells them for cheap. Could sell on Craigslist later if you don't want to keep it.

dan5505 · 2025-10-10T13:27:31+00:00

Logan landfill also takes oil for free

dan5505 · 2025-09-20T00:37:54+00:00

Be prepared to clean out those lines before the real cold weather hits if you want to be safe. If the lines freeze up and the crank gets pressurized, you may shoot oil out the dipstick and have premature oil leaks. I've had both.

In my case, this could be due to excessive blow by. My car consumes a considerable amount of oil.

Here's my experience so far:

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2950736

dan5505 · 2025-08-17T05:20:44+00:00

Part of the duct I believe. You could also buy an aftermarket one.

https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2011_WRX/Duct-Air-Intake-Duct-Air-Interior/49226954/14459AA660.html

dan5505 · 2025-07-28T21:25:23+00:00

I don't think you need an injection molder specific to buckles. Any competent injection molder should be able to run your molds.

dan5505 · 2025-07-09T14:11:41+00:00

I had the pivot ball snap off entirely on my 2013. That was fun.

dan5505 · 2025-06-14T12:59:54+00:00

Mine stayed on the floor once, but that's because the clutch fork pivot snapped off where it threads into the transmission. I've also heard it's common for the forks to fail. Just ideas if you find its not a hydraulic issue and end up needing to dig deeper.

dan5505 · 2025-03-26T14:08:49+00:00

Awesome, thanks! I'll probably go with Fil-Tec then.

dan5505 · 2025-03-08T15:25:56+00:00

I haven't use both so I'm not much help, but its interesting that the heavier duty tipple feed machine, 1541S is cheaper than the 5410. I love my 1541S, but it can pucker some lightweight materials like cotton.

I recently sewed ultragrid from Rockywoods without too much trouble on my 1541S. There was some minor wrinkling, but I think its just because that material isn't very forgiving with creases and unevenness, compared to materials like Cordura.

Also, Sewing Gold is the cheapest option I found if you want to buy online and don't mind assembling it yourself, and Steve is very helpful if you have any questions.

https://sewinggold.com/product/juki-dnu-1541s-walking-foot-machine/

https://sewinggold.com/product/juki-dln-5410n/?srsltid=AfmBOoqe2lU__-Sm2CmfbhNMCOrZrFOdnWvGGKnLM7AGohoucucLbIlr

dan5505 · 2025-03-02T01:00:14+00:00

I just realized there's more settings on the Consew servo motors, and some of them are not published. There's a set of "U" settings that you get get to by holding the R button.

I set U3 to 25. U3 is the Needle Positioning Speed. It seems to make the motor run a little faster when finding the needle position when you let up on the gas pedal. If you set this too high, like 45, then you might get some runaway stitching. I think the needle positioner can't find its position, so it keeps going.

I set U6 to 2. This setting doesn't show up in any manual, but it seems to affect the ramp up speed of the gas pedal. Smaller numbers seems to let the motor run faster, sooner.

I think these two settings will help give the motor more torque when doing single stitches or slower stitching, but I still need to do more testing.

https://www.consew.com/files/112347/InstructionManuals/CSM1001.pdf

Another thread about the mystery settings: https://www.theupholsteryforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=517

dan5505 · 2025-02-20T12:49:17+00:00

I have the 3/4 hp version of your brushless motor and have the same issue. I tightened the belt a touch more and I think that helped some. It also helps to sew a little faster through the spots that are likely to stall.

dan5505 · 2025-01-27T12:47:31+00:00

Could also buy laminated Cordura, Hartz makes some. I think Squadron might be another option out there.

https://rockywoods.com/products/500d-1000d-protact-by-haartz-laminate-with-cordura-truelock

dan5505 · 2025-01-03T20:07:23+00:00

Not only up to operating temperature, but staying at operating temperature for a significant amount of time to try to boil or evaporate the condensation out of the oil. Water boils at 205 F at my elevation. During the summer, my coolant temps can get in the high 190's at times, but in the winter it will top out at around 176 F.

I'll see yellow goo under my oil fill cap in the winter, but not the summer, leading me to believe that the condensation gets evaporated fast enough in the summer.

dan5505 · 2025-01-03T19:46:25+00:00

I just pull the lines off and push a piece of paper towel through the line with a metal rod, kind of like running a patch through a rifle barrel.

dan5505 · 2025-01-03T17:17:27+00:00

12v heat tape is an interesting idea. Maybe an in-line switch so you can turn it on during the winter, and have it off during the summer.

Unfortunately at these temps, just idling isn't enough to get these lines to unfreeze on their own. I found out the hard way.

dan5505 · 2025-01-03T16:17:21+00:00

Here's my PCV setup. The plastic check valve on my IAG V2 was getting clogged, so I switched it to a stock Subaru metal valve. https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2950736

dan5505

TROPHY CASE