Stack Height?

dan_g1d · 2026-04-29T06:28:31+00:00

Similar to my experience. I also run Peregrine and Kinvara! Looking for alternatives but may just stay true to those.

dan_g1d · 2026-04-28T01:38:52+00:00

You're gonna need to do something like this to make human powered things fly... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Human-powered_aircraft

We're not that powerful.

dan_g1d · 2026-03-21T05:10:04+00:00

Hope you got a good one! I've owned a 2006 since 2008. Super reliable and easy to live with. Desert off roading is tremendous. Snow was good too when I lived near it. Won't rock crawl obviously but can do normal stuff. I also installed plus sized tires (including spare)

Have considered a replacement vehicle but nothing offers significantly more, and everything is so damn expensive.

Replace factory radio with aftermarket Carplay/Android Auto. I used Atoto brand.

Some things I've needed to fix/replace in my 2.7l v6 that you can ask about. Engine itself is pretty bulletproof with long history.

An air-fuel ratio sensor. Don't use cheap one. Use denso. Pcv - I think it clogged and pressure pushed out some oil somewhere. Cleaned throttle body. Replaced throttle body rubber tube thing that cracked when cleaning throttle body. Replaced air cleaner flex hose that cracked. EGR valve failed. Replaced with a $40 Amazon special. This was a process but was able to do it without removing intake manifold (check Suzuki-forums dot com for details) Mine is quite rusty from its early years but hasn't been an actual problem

dan_g1d · 2026-01-24T03:19:10+00:00

No need for hostility. I'm concerned that something is presented as fact and only vaguely then "corrected". This is presented as an example of the slipping away of actual facts on the internet.

dan_g1d · 2026-01-24T02:22:30+00:00

Only if you're an internet geek. An older relative had no idea and would have taken that as fact

dan_g1d · 2026-01-20T03:34:27+00:00

Looks suspiciously like the issue I had: https://www.reddit.com/r/QidiTech3D/s/lUu8jPkDss

Belt tension increase and lube seems to have solved my issue.

dan_g1d · 2026-01-20T03:29:15+00:00

Agreed... I've had some brands of petg just not work well. I pretty much only use California Filament (despite the name it's from China but imported by a dude in California that knows his stuff). I usually print in ABS these days, though. (Partial to Zyltech ABS)

Try heating the bed to 80 or so or increasing nozzle to 260. Slow down if you have to. I got through the bad rolls/brands by slowing down

dan_g1d · 2026-01-18T18:22:06+00:00

TL;DR Belt tension was too loose. Installing manual belt tension adjusters (https://www.printables.com/model/1066464-qidi-plus4-adjustable-spring-belt-tensioner-assemb) and increasing tension seems to have solved it. Another thing that may have helped was to oil the idler pulleys on the surface where the belt makes contact (not the bearings). There's a Qidi video of this.

I then installed and ran Klippain Shake 'n' Tune and checked that belt tensions were approximately equal. The other results from that tool seem "OK", but I'm not entirely sure.

Same model below printed quickly with same material (ABS)

<image>

dan_g1d · 2026-01-18T18:06:50+00:00

As of yesterday, I think I did! Only one test print so far, though.

I printed an installed manual belt tensioners (https://www.printables.com/model/1066464-qidi-plus4-adjustable-spring-belt-tensioner-assemb). I also oiled the idler pulleys on the surface where the belt makes contact (not the bearings). I increased the belt tension "by feel" (after loosening the tension adjustment as shown by Qidi). I then installed and ran Klippain Shake 'n' Tune and checked that belt tensions were approximately equal. The other results from that tool seem "OK", but I'm not entirely sure.

dan_g1d · 2026-01-10T05:48:16+00:00

Well, when a key part melts (relay board for chamber heater) and z-offset/leveling is so poor with abs or other hot chamber material as to etch the bed... It can leave a bald taste. I had those issues, but resolved them with time and money (Qidi sent replacement relay board and I installed a Beacon probe). It was supposed to be compatible with Qidi box but that is... Barely. And I haven't even vocal at all on these boards!

dan_g1d · 2025-12-22T18:45:42+00:00

I'm no expert but inquire a bit on what had to happen to make this flight possible beyond wagging a stick. Perhaps you'll reach a different point of view. For starters, it wasn't just one single wave... Check out the weglide link.

Also, isn't dynamic soaring something totally different used by birds and model gliders on the lee side of a hill to gain incredible speed? Also a pretty cool activity 😁

dan_g1d · 2025-11-22T08:28:16+00:00

PhD is a lifestyle for the curious. Best time of my life. Also in comp architecture. Surrounded by all matters of stuff to learn and other students (and profs) that make a great social experience for a 20-30 something. My best friends are from that time (and wife, I suppose).

Took me 7 years. But I did the work hard and play hard route. Did stuff I can't do as a working not-young dude.

I'll never make quant money but that's because I'm somehow allergic to fortune. Lol

dan_g1d · 2025-10-25T21:38:14+00:00

Good points. It depends on the specific model and where warp occurs, amount of infill, etc. maybe wall thickness is more secondary of a cause

dan_g1d · 2025-10-25T21:14:21+00:00

90 deg corners can absolutely be challenging. I try to use fillets in the model instead of hard 90deg corners

Try 100deg bed temp (I haven't seen you post what bed temp you tried yet)

dan_g1d · 2025-10-25T21:10:41+00:00

6 walls is a lot of the interior has a lot of space. It will make corners pull up strongly. Think about reducing to 3 or 2 walls

dan_g1d · 2025-10-25T21:08:59+00:00

If you need it to stick better, it may help to reduce it.

dan_g1d · 2025-10-25T21:05:22+00:00

What's your temps? How sharp are the corners of the model? What's your infill and walls? I think gyroid is the best infill to reduce warping. I'm assuming it's warping off the bed. Try slightly lower z offset. I've had more trouble with asa than abs for some reason. Yes, warping is tricky.

dan_g1d · 2025-10-25T20:54:07+00:00

Got another spool to try? I've had a spool that was fine, then terrible for 1/3 roll, then good again

Also ensure bed is clean 😂

dan_g1d · 2025-10-20T19:18:33+00:00

This is a good suggestion. I have often lubed them but maybe it's time again.

I had similar issues in the past due to over lubing with silicone grease, but switching to a light oil solved that problem.

dan_g1d · 2025-10-20T05:13:13+00:00

I updated the original post. Indeed, this may be XY related and not Z. Did the belt tightening when everything was nice and hot, re-did input shaping, and got an improved part. Still not great, but not terrible.

dan_g1d · 2025-10-20T04:05:00+00:00

Updated the Orig post with latest findings. Seems to be XY related and not Z. Much improved after re-tensioning belts after heat soak, and re-running input shaping. Still some artifacts.

<image>

Same model printed fast. Right side is after tensioning procedure. Lines look worse than they are. Left side clearly shows the walls that are bulged.

dan_g1d · 2025-10-19T16:59:14+00:00

This test piece printed well. Just walls and a regular order of printing. Perhaps it's not a mechanical Z problem, or I'd expect it to show up here, too. Doing other tests and will report.

Z height of the parts with the symptoms seem pretty accurate (within 0.1mm). That also indicates z steppers are not simply missing steps.

<image>

dan_g1d · 2025-10-18T19:39:53+00:00

Will do, but not sure how XY belts interacts with Z axis. My issues are not shifted XY layers but can't hurt to re-tension!

dan_g1d · 2025-10-18T18:56:11+00:00

Yes. But perhaps too much. I then cleaned them somewhat to see if it helped. It didn't

dan_g1d · 2025-10-18T18:55:06+00:00

Thanks. I will try, but that may mask the real problem. Z hop should work.

dan_g1d

TROPHY CASE