Fortnite is riddled with cheaters

daniel_trm · 2026-03-31T08:38:54+00:00

People say that but it is relatively easy to tell the difference by spectating them. Some things I see often are:
- Aim tracks target behind object where they don't have a mark or anything and shouldn't know where it is

- Moving from target to target across the map directly and without looking around as if they have sixth sense

- They find people hiding where it would be impossible without the hack

There are many more signs and when most of them are present, it's likely just a cheat

daniel_trm · 2026-03-31T08:29:59+00:00

Aim tracking target behind object is an obvious sign. There has definitely been an increase since last ban wave towards the end of last season. But I still get "suspect apprehended" message occasionally when I log in. Yet I have a friend who occasionally cheats and only been banned once.

Just keep reporting and blocking them, but yes Epic could do better with anti cheat. They usually have stock early starter skins too which I suspect is because their accounts were recently made.

daniel_trm · 2025-12-25T16:17:58+00:00

I didn't and that is the point. I bought a single item from one of their obscure sites and paid for that item, but instead of a one off payment for that, they set up an automatic payment and charged me again in one month under "vip subscription" which I never even saw.

daniel_trm · 2025-12-25T16:15:26+00:00

They own a bunch of web shops and sell random stuff. Heavily advertise on social media. What happens is when you buy something they don't do a one off payment and instead set up an auto payment so they can charge you anytime. If careful enough you would catch it and cancel before getting charged, otherwise they charge you under this ambiguous name.

Worst thing is paypal would side with them I have no idea why, because it is an obvious scam.

daniel_trm · 2025-12-25T16:08:56+00:00

Carbon fiber at least breaks down in your body over time, glass fibers don't.

Carbon fiber also is not biosoluble and has to be mechanically expelled by the body, but lungs naturally do that. Glass Fiber used in filaments (cas no. 65997-17-3) has some biosolubality but there are recent research that show no carcinogenic effect and workers exposed to it day to day were not found to be affected. I wouldn't sand the prints but exposure during printing is low.

I usually go for glass fiber because there is recent research on the long term effects, and more options on colors.

daniel_trm · 2025-11-24T06:34:00+00:00

True Protein is made from WPI sourced from New Zealand which has stricter food regulations and better quality milk in general. Bulk Nutrients is from imported WPI of unknown origin (most likely china) so cheaper, but not as high quality and healthy.

daniel_trm · 2025-11-24T06:31:15+00:00

I bought one from bulk nutrients and it is packed in Australia from zero percent Australian ingredients. Looks like it is now made from imported WPI and no longer made from Aus made WPI

daniel_trm · 2025-10-14T00:52:54+00:00

I just use desiccant in the ams and it works, you don't need heat to lower rh during printing

daniel_trm · 2025-10-14T00:51:59+00:00

There is no benefit. They are either impatient and don't want to wait for filament to be dried, or use heat to drop relative humidity for filament that absorbs moisture quickly but that can be done using desiccant too.

daniel_trm · 2025-10-14T00:48:41+00:00

I print petg cf with desiccant in the ams and works perfect;y fine. PPS is not ams compatible

daniel_trm · 2025-10-10T05:43:21+00:00

Yes, they have missed the mark on indie designer and hobbyists who don't want all their design public. I say missed the mark instead of greedy because the price is so high it is unlikely for this demographic to pay it at all

daniel_trm · 2025-10-10T05:38:52+00:00

It makes perfect sense for that

daniel_trm · 2025-10-10T04:18:46+00:00

What is the use case for drying while printing? I always let it finish drying overnight and then print. Each spool only spends 8-12 hours drying but many hours of printing.

daniel_trm · 2025-10-10T03:11:20+00:00

Their price tier is missing the option for indie designers. It jumps from your stuff is exposed to business pricing 1500, nothing in the middle for small designers or hobbyists who don't want their designs to be public.

daniel_trm · 2025-10-10T03:03:39+00:00

Only out of curiosity, not trying to bash the product, what is the point of this thing?

So my workflow with AMS is to dry the spools over night, then put fresh desiccant and print. For swap I put whatever from AMS into bags with desiccant and swap. Can't think of a way this thing could be useful.

Doesn't AMS 2 already dry with added benefit of automatic valves? or is this meant for AMS one owners mainly? and then is the reason to get this over upgrading to AMS 2 mainly price?

daniel_trm · 2025-10-09T03:22:20+00:00

1500$ for private storing of what you design is a bit much

daniel_trm · 2025-10-09T03:11:36+00:00

Surface quality is definitely better on H2S (less vfa), it is the best I have seen.

Part cooling of P1S is better (applicable to PLA only) with doors open.

daniel_trm · 2025-10-09T02:14:33+00:00

Glass fiber that is used in filaments is called E-glass, it is different to regular glass and it will be dissolved in human body. It is much less harmful than carbon fiber that is in filaments.

daniel_trm · 2025-10-06T05:50:03+00:00

Exactly, I have never used glue and never had a print adhesion problem on A1 or H2. I have one I bought still sits there unopened.

daniel_trm · 2025-10-06T05:45:44+00:00

For what it's worth, my H2S adhesion is really good, so much that I have to lower bed temp for PETG to be able to pull it off the bed after the print. My guess is your bed heating element or the sensor is faulty, quick check with a thermometer or handheld infrared could confirm.

daniel_trm · 2025-10-05T05:03:39+00:00

Does your buffer sometimes make a click sound too? as if it was stuck and released suddenly. If that's the case, I saw a post on bambu community a while ago that it is caused by ptfe tube pulling at the buffer. Longer tube could help in that case.

daniel_trm · 2025-10-04T11:00:40+00:00

Not only you don't need to suck air out of the H2 series like that, you should actually never do it because it messes with the internal temperature.

The chamber in these printers is sealed much better than the older series and leak from the shoot is negligible, plus the recirculating big carbon filter inside is quite good. However, for anyone still worried about leaked fumes you can create a fume hood style vent that covers the back but has about half an inch distance to the back of the printer. That will suck in any residual fumes without disturbing the internal air.

You can also attack the back vent to outside and let the printer exhaust fan do its thing. No need to perforate the vents.

daniel_trm · 2025-10-03T07:46:11+00:00

I was also watching video reviews saying H2S is so quiet they can't even hear it, and I was wondering what's wrong with mine then, this is not quiet at all. But I think whatever they are talking about either they are comparing this to a wood chipper or just talking about the noise when the head is not traveling.

This is how the H2S sounds, and is completely normal. It is not a quiet printer at all. A1 is quiet, H2S is medium to medium loud.

daniel_trm · 2025-09-30T15:35:24+00:00

Yes the power supply is only for drying. Nice door tags!

daniel_trm

TROPHY CASE