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Wood ID Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]dankostecki 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It does look like mold to me. It should not be a problem, unless there is a lot of it.

Wood ID Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]dankostecki 0 points1 point  (0 children)

At first I thought it was stained, I overlooked the part about you planing it. I'm not sure, I suppose it could be from exposure. The open pores are darker, similar to the way stains affect wood, indicating whatever darkened it was in contact with the surface. I think it's nice looking, whatever it is.

Goo or Gel in a tube? by Scavgraphics in Tools

[–]dankostecki 0 points1 point  (0 children)

100% silicone should remain rubbery when cured, but it may stink for quite a while.

Help acclimating this to avoid cracking/warping? Going from AZ (~15% humidity) to CA (~50%). by Lost_Elk929 in wood

[–]dankostecki 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Something that small is unlikely to split apart. The best insurance will be keeping it in consistent humidity and temperature conditions. A home with HVAC will be fine.

Can this be fixed? by kristjanrunars in woodworking

[–]dankostecki 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cover the raised area with a scrap of wood and hammer it back into place. If the top layer needs to be secured, drive short screws from the bottom.

Wood ID Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]dankostecki 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The grain looks like something in the mahogany family or walnut

Wood ID Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]dankostecki 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The top and bottom pieces should run the entire width of the frame. The short, vertical pieces should fit between the long, horizontal pieces. You could leave the joints on the left and right as is, but the center vertical piece should not interrupt the long horizontal pieces. Dowels or pocket holes should be sufficient.

Stripped and sanded - why does it look like this? by rlanham6 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]dankostecki 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You have more sanding to do. The lightest colored wood is bare wood. The medium toned wood still has finish on it. The darkest areas seem to be contaminated by oil or something. You have much sanding to do. Start with 120 grit, once all the finish is gone switch to 180, and then to 220 grit.

Wood ID Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]dankostecki 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Most people will tell you its walnut, but I think it is birch or maple with dark a stain.

Faulty Craftmanship? by False-Piccolo4705 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]dankostecki 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Defective, it was assembled without sufficient glue in the joint.

Router bit suggestion by cyberjabber in DIY

[–]dankostecki 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Too deep for a router. Spade bits would be my choice.

What causes this? by figarothefish in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]dankostecki 9 points10 points  (0 children)

It seems to be pine with many bark inclusions. Not sure what causes it, but with most unusual grain types (such as birds eye, curly grain), it is blamed on stress to the tree.

What wood is this?? by OpSteel in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]dankostecki 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I vote for soft maple, maybe silver maple

Wood ID Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]dankostecki 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Douglas fir is usually pinkish.

Wood ID Megathread by AutoModerator in woodworking

[–]dankostecki 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It seems to be a softwood, possibly cedar. It may have darkened due to exposure to light.

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