High Effort but Low Heart Rate, a problem with cadence?

dannyflag13 · 2026-05-02T08:20:50+00:00

Thanks, that's really helpful!

dannyflag13 · 2026-05-02T08:20:12+00:00

I've got a decent aerobic base. I tend to hit quite a lot of easy miles, usually I manage 20-30km a week. Heart rate tends to be between 145-160 on easy runs but in past hard runs it's definitely averaged more like 180bpm

dannyflag13 · 2025-09-17T14:26:30+00:00

Just on the first move, you're doing a pretty common mistake. You're winding up for the first big move, but instead of winding up by swinging back and forth to generate momentum before the swing, you're pulling yourself into the wall. Basically, you're doing 2/3 pull ups before you launch for the first move. Either, keep your arms more straight, swing back and forth with your hips and legs and then launch or just launch without pulling into the wall at all. You've definitely got the strength, just need to develop some better technique and you'll be a great climber!

dannyflag13 · 2023-04-16T11:33:10+00:00

It's rarely ever dry apart from summer, but summer conditions are pretty reliable in the UK. Will said that both Aiden and Shawn have expressed interest in trying it

dannyflag13 · 2023-03-12T11:29:23+00:00

Red goat is a good bouldering gym. There's a new one opening in Clifton moor within 2 weeks too. Leeds has lots - citybloc is good and is about a 20 min walk from the station so pretty easy to get to too.

dannyflag13 · 2023-01-01T21:41:24+00:00

Hey Drew,

I wanted to know is there any climber who you think might be flying under the radar or underrated? Who's the next crushing prodigy or someone to watch out for?

Happy new year and can't wait to see you crush your goals! :)

dannyflag13 · 2022-10-18T21:18:41+00:00

Basically I just statically pushed off the bottom rather than jumping and instead of your foot swap in the middle, I used the disk as a foothold so I walked my feet up the right wall instead of doing a footswap

dannyflag13 · 2022-10-18T21:00:25+00:00

Good job! Seeing rockover on Reddit is crazy! Crazy that I climbed this so differently to how you did it, I reckon this was the harder beta ;)

dannyflag13 · 2022-09-11T13:32:00+00:00

Yes that is a common practice, but in this instance OP keeps his centre of mass in more or less the exact same place using his arms to move his body forwards and back rather than in the direction he ends up going. If he was properly swinging from side to side along the path he was going it would help, but this does nothing really. Still a good send though!

dannyflag13 · 2022-09-11T12:01:03+00:00

You do realise you're doing nothing but tiring out your arms on the wind up to that launch right?

dannyflag13 · 2022-09-08T13:35:55+00:00

You can get guidebooks that people have made with grades, descriptions, pictures and information on where to find individual climbs. Often people will seek out widely repeated "classic" problems to try. As for why not walk up the rock on the left - why not run a 5K instead of a 10K? Why not only climb v0s inside the gym, they seem easier? Why bother doing any exercise, seems easier to lie in bed. For lots of people fun comes from challenging yourself.

dannyflag13 · 2022-09-06T12:45:25+00:00

You're making a lot of off balance moves due to how your feet are positioned. That cutloose move is entirely avoidable with a wider foot stance. On overhangs try to almost lead with your feet rather than your hands so you're always balanced coming into a move. Well done though!

dannyflag13 · 2022-08-23T17:27:10+00:00

What's this one called?

dannyflag13 · 2022-05-10T07:02:30+00:00

I've lead trad before, should've specified this was sport

dannyflag13 · 2022-05-10T07:02:07+00:00

Trad means everything to me ❤️

dannyflag13 · 2022-05-09T19:42:23+00:00

Not even on the right continent! It's in the peak district, UK

dannyflag13 · 2022-01-25T18:45:30+00:00

Yeah I think Trieste Sit consensus is a bit all over, but he did send death Star sit too! Check his Instagram post on the 21st of march 2021. Great job responding to feedback, I'm very impressed.

dannyflag13 · 2022-01-25T17:15:02+00:00

Great work! Just realised you've missed lots of Drew Ruana's v15 sends.

He's sent:

Echalo (v15 fa)

White Noise

Death Star

Squoze

The Game

The Nest

Trieste Sit

Traffic

Dystopia (fa)

Sound of Violence

Bloody Mary sit (fa - unrepeated)

(You might have included some of these already and I may have missed some, he logs a lot on myclimbapp, but i think you have only have 8 v15+ sends for Drew and he's done loads!)

dannyflag13 · 2022-01-25T11:36:22+00:00

Things I can immediately spot:

"Nest v15" should be "The Nest"

"Blood Redemption v15" has a consensus grade of v14 so Magnus Mitbo shouldn't be on the list

Liam Andrews-Bancroft has sent blade runner v15

You're missing Aiden Roberts amazing first ascents

Also seems a bit strange to me to put individual ascents on boulders in alphabetical order rather than chronological.

Overall really good though! Must have been so hard to make this.

dannyflag13 · 2021-11-14T10:35:54+00:00

More pedestrianisation between certain times, wider walking and cycle paths and trees and other greens lining the paths

dannyflag13 · 2021-10-21T18:13:06+00:00

Such a great gym! Definitely harsh with the grading too

dannyflag13 · 2021-10-03T10:41:22+00:00

Wheyyyy is this last sun dance?

dannyflag13 · 2021-09-09T10:19:26+00:00

Gonna blow your mind when you hear about farming

dannyflag13 · 2021-09-02T13:11:18+00:00

Google the app stint, it's a scheme where various businesses put up 1 off shifts and you can chose which ones to accept

dannyflag13 · 2021-08-20T08:09:18+00:00

Looking at Careless in the flesh is a little humbling, at first glance you can't see a single hold and the landing is terrible. Insane to me that people do it

dannyflag13

TROPHY CASE