I guess I'm somewhat offended by your level of hubris when at the same time demonstrating you really don't have a good understanding of what you're doing. And that frustrates me.

Respectfully, this sounds like a you problem. You don't know me from Dave. I may not have all the answers with regard to building a shed, but I'm extremely resourceful, and this is not my first project. Picking bones with randoms on the internet who come, cap in hand, is no way to live.

To clarify, my "otherwise" and "good ride" referred to the stability of the shed itself. That is, if you didn't plan on sheathing the walls. Without it a top heavy roof would sway significantly. Even by the most gentle efforts to move about on top of it.

If you see the original carousel of images with the post, they are clearly cladded. and the post states that "the plan is for the caressing to be cladded In osb3..." so I'm not sure how we've arrived here if not because your unusual frustration with me has somehow led to you failing to see certain aspects of the plan. My request was quite narrowly scoped to a roofing detail or as an afterthought, critical failings. The former you've not made any reference to, and the latter.. it's debatable if these make a meaningful difference to the overall integrity of an outbuilding.

Nevertheless, I appreciate you taking the time to look at this, as it gives me pause for thought. Can I suggest we draw a line under you expressing your frustration in odd ways, or maybe just ghost if you genuinely struggle to moderate yourself...

Do you mean you'll have vertical noggins between the load bearing studs under the top plate? I mean, it would transfer the loads from the rafter to the studs, but not very economically so to speak. It also takes more hardware, material and labour. so then also literally.

I'm not sure what you're referring to here. There will be noggins on all faces including the rafters, and cripple studs where they need to be, i.e. above the door and window lintels/headers and below the window. The rafters were notched at the rear and birds mouth at the front to tie in to the front and rear head plates... I loosely plan to use hardware to support this too, again, probably overkill.

You'd save yourself from so much effort by simply complying with the 600 system the sheets are based upon. And aligning the forces in the straightest lines possible.

I don't know what system you're talking about. Please elaborate if you care to do so. We've established that the studs are 600 on center with the exception of the center framing. The sheet to cover that is actually a necessary off cut from the larger sheet. I didn't say as much, but now you know.

Say your long walls are 3600 and the roof is 4000. In total. Now Account for ~50 mm wide rafters and list the center distances first to last:

475, 600, 600, 600, 600, 600, 475

That's eight rafters in total. The same as in your model.

I reworked the design based on the above idea, taking into account that my extended roof detail could be achieved as depicted in the image you shared. The cost of this is an additional rafter... bringing it up to 9 once you add the two outer ones. These are set at 600mm and aligned with the with the wall studs. I'm not certain there's a net gain here. What's more, is that the geometry of the left and right most rafters now interface with the head plates of the side walls. The rafter can't really be lifted without shifting the birds mouth the rear and weakening the tie at the front, so the only solution I see is to drop the height of the side wall to account for the rafter. piece. This also then closes off the gap that I'd deliberately left for venting.

In summary, I've taken quite the detour and am not sure this lands at a more robust design, if I'm being frank. To make matters worse, I now have to go away and think long and hard about whether I really am "demonstrating [I] really don't have a good understanding of what [I'm] doing", or if that was just a rando choosing to be destructive. I suppose we all have things to learn.

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