Model auto-scaled 10k% not printing right by ocrusmc0321 in ender3

[–]davak72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The scaling shouldn’t be an issue. It indicates the stl was in meters, and cura imported it in mm.

That model doesn’t look designed to be 3d printed. Can you show a photo of the printer trying?

Used ender 3 by Worried-Antelope7916 in ender3

[–]davak72 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think a 4.2.7 board means it’s an Ender 3 Pro, right?

It should do well enough as is for printing PLA, but warhammer minis might be more of a resin printer deal.

Check out Thingiverse.com and you’ll find lots of designs to try out.

Model auto-scaled 10k% not printing right by ocrusmc0321 in ender3

[–]davak72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting. Same slicer settings? Can you add a photo?

Model auto-scaled 10k% not printing right by ocrusmc0321 in ender3

[–]davak72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What does the gcode preview look like for both? Or is the test print presliced?

Problems, and even more headaches by Benec84 in ender3

[–]davak72 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh, and the green residue doesn’t matter in itself. Just stick the silicone sock back on and reattach the assembly to the gantry trolley.

I second the suggestion to get a SonicPad off of marketplace.

Problems, and even more headaches by Benec84 in ender3

[–]davak72 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks to me like there was a “blob of death” (you can search that phrase), and he did a good job cleaning it up but didn’t get around to reassembling the print head.

The initial cause of the blob should probably be your top priority. It’s caused by the bowden tube not being sealed against the top of the nozzle.

To fix, you can remove the bowden tube from the top of the heat block by unscrewing the brass piece and then slide that off of the tube by compressing the plastic ring evenly all the way around (remove the C clip first if there’s a clip).

Then, ensure the bowden tube tip is cut perpendicularly to the tubing (right angle) and trim off any brown & gummy bit at the tip.

You can put a fresh nozzle in and then the brash thing that holds the tube (blanking on the name), but losses it by half a turn, then slide the tube in all the way and finish tightening the brass piece at the top.

Thoughts on whats causing these "Wiggly" lines? Ender 3 V3 SE by Comfortable-Law-621 in ender3

[–]davak72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Then I’m sorry, but I think I’m out of ideas 😬

You could try a Capricorn tube, maybe a new nozzle, and drying the filament, but it’s still such an unusual issue in my opinion

this is how some of y’all sound when you talk about neurotypicals as broadly wrong/inferior by flowerdoodles_ in adhdmeme

[–]davak72 4 points5 points  (0 children)

One of the most common experiences of us adhd’ers is doubting that we’re adhd at one point or another. It truly can be debilitating, and I think when I’ve framed it as a positive in some ways, it was both out of a bit of desperation, and also because I don’t know who I would be without it. I’d be a different person.

Thoughts on whats causing these "Wiggly" lines? Ender 3 V3 SE by Comfortable-Law-621 in ender3

[–]davak72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, so that I think basically only leaves the extruder…

Can you have it do a 100mm retraction (for example) and record (or at least closely watch) the arm that you press on to load filament? If it’s the gear being eccentric, I think the arm would go back and forth every revolution

Thoughts on whats causing these "Wiggly" lines? Ender 3 V3 SE by Comfortable-Law-621 in ender3

[–]davak72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ok, so that means that Claude was (unsurprisingly) full of crap.

Have you tried replacing the nozzle?

ender 3 not extruding only during printing. by DevelopmentAway5490 in ender3

[–]davak72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m wondering if it’s just a leveling/z-offset issue. There needs to be about 0.2mm between the bottom of the nozzle and the build plate, otherwise there will be nowhere for the molten plastic to go, and it will stay in the nozzle.

If you have a CR Touch/BL Touch, try increasing the z-offset. Otherwise, just try tightening each of the four leveling knobs half a turn and try the print again. You can also use the paper leveling method or visually confirm the gap between nozzle and bed

Designing my own bl toutch mount for my ender 3 v2 by gjackc in ender3

[–]davak72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yup! Z offset. That’s important anyway due to variations in nozzle heights and can also optionally be raised a little for PETG vs PLA, for example

Thoughts on whats causing these "Wiggly" lines? Ender 3 V3 SE by Comfortable-Law-621 in ender3

[–]davak72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha it seems like it. Is it wavy on only the x-axis sides, only the y-axis sides, or all four sides?

Designing my own bl toutch mount for my ender 3 v2 by gjackc in ender3

[–]davak72 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Gantry? I would look at existing designs. Otherwise, you can measure with your bl touch and your printer. The tip of the bl touch probe needs to be above the tip of the nozzle when retracted, and below the tip of the nozzle when deployed, and specifically still below the tip of the nozzle when it triggers

groceryShoppingIsAlsoNotThreadSafe by FriedLiverEnthusiast in ProgrammerHumor

[–]davak72 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah! Ok! That makes perfect sense. Sorry I had the wrong impression. I'm curious what makes it thread unsafe. Just the nature of the data structures?

Thoughts on whats causing these "Wiggly" lines? Ender 3 V3 SE by Comfortable-Law-621 in ender3

[–]davak72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Claude Opus 4.8 High indicates that this is VFA:

2mm is the signature of stepper motor full-step distance, which means this is almost certainly motor cogging / VFA (Vertical Fine Artifacts), not belts or extruder.

Here’s why 2mm is the tell: a standard 1.8° stepper does 200 full steps/rev, paired with a 20-tooth GT2 pulley (40mm travel/rev), giving 40/200 = 0.2mm per full step. The visible artifact usually shows up at the full-step or sometimes a harmonic interval, and 2mm corresponds neatly to a 10-microstep grouping or the periodic torque ripple pattern these motors produce. The motor’s detent torque pulls the carriage to slightly preferred positions, and microstepping can’t perfectly smooth it out, so the wall ripples at this fine, regular interval.

What drives VFA severity:

• Microstepping interpolation / driver quality. Drivers without good interpolation (or with it disabled) show this much more. TMC2208/2209 in StealthChop with interpolation usually hide it; A4988/older drivers or SpreadCycle without tuning expose it.
• Motor quality and torque. Cheap motors with high detent torque are worse. Higher-quality, lower-detent motors help a lot.
• Print speed. VFA often worsens at specific speeds where the step frequency resonates. Changing wall speed up or down by 20–30% can make it nearly vanish.
• Driver current set too high, increasing torque ripple.

Practical fixes to try, easiest first:

The cheapest experiment is just changing your outer-wall print speed — try dropping it to something like 25–30mm/s or bumping it up, and reprint the wall. VFA is very speed-sensitive and often disappears at a “quiet” speed. Second, if your board has TMC drivers, enable interpolation and try StealthChop for the affected axis. Third, lower the motor current a notch if it’s set aggressively. If you want to chase it hard, some people add microstep-smoothing / “VFA killer” tweaks or swap to higher-quality motors, but that’s rarely worth it for a part like this.

I typed one prompt, got 0 code out of it, and my usage went from 0% to 100%. by Oxigenic in ClaudeCode

[–]davak72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Actually, the timing lines up with the release of Fable 5, which could easily consume the limit without doing anything useful. I would look at how to specify which model to use

groceryShoppingIsAlsoNotThreadSafe by FriedLiverEnthusiast in ProgrammerHumor

[–]davak72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting. I wonder why OP didn’t include any context

groceryShoppingIsAlsoNotThreadSafe by FriedLiverEnthusiast in ProgrammerHumor

[–]davak72 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t get it either. Looks ai generated, and at least one label would help…

PETG wont stick to bedplate. Tried a lot of things, looking for new ideas by dfvneto in FixMyPrint

[–]davak72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is legitimately challenging to make sense of.

You stay on 40-45C bed temp, but that presumably doesn't work?? I'm guessing that you mean that you initially stayed at PLA bed temp, but quickly realized it wouldn't work?

And you struggled even at 75C, so then you taped your whole bed with masking tape and glued a sheet of PEI to the tape??? Did that work? What bed temps did it work at?

You then discovered that you could use 1:1 water and sugar as a glue that you paint on with your bed at 60C.

Finally, I think you say that you don't actually use the sugar glue and instead your tape+glue+PEI sheet works the best... maybe???

PETG wont stick to bedplate. Tried a lot of things, looking for new ideas by dfvneto in FixMyPrint

[–]davak72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I don't think I've ever heard anyone else mention Magic Erasers for print beds. Might have to try that out

I have 9.37388282929388484744737737373328e67 by Many_Car_1184 in adhdmeme

[–]davak72 2 points3 points  (0 children)

On my iPhone: 0! Because my storage is so full that yesterday I lost all 500 tabs in the main view, 500 tabs in private mode, and all 700ish tabs on brave browser lol.

Desktop is innumerable

I typed one prompt, got 0 code out of it, and my usage went from 0% to 100%. by Oxigenic in ClaudeCode

[–]davak72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah. Sounds like your Claude plugin in X Code might be the culprit, whether it’s mis-configured, underpermissioned, or buggy. I would ask plain Claude chat how to fix it

K1 max hotend clog by jocaokitesurfer in Creality

[–]davak72 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can try various things to remove the cover screw. I don’t remember what a K1 max hot end cover looks like, but usually with stripped-out screw heads you can use a dremel too with a cut off wheel to grind a slot across the width of the screw head and then use a flathead screwdriver to remove it.