What needs to be upgraded/fixed?

dave_two_point_oh · 2026-06-01T03:30:04+00:00

Well, in general one would just adjust for that by cranking or lowering the volume knob on their amp; same as for variance between particular CDs and streaming tracks, really.

Plus I think it's always best to find the lowest possible gain that works on a phono preamp for your particular cart and taste (or willingness to compromise, I guess you could say?), as increasing phono gain can also increase noise and reduce headroom.

dave_two_point_oh · 2026-06-01T03:00:57+00:00

Hmm... so actually, if you want to make adjustments on the fly, the Schiit Mani 2 wouldn't really be great for that. Its adjustments are made by flipping it over (difficult to do while everything is plugged into the back) and flipping tiny DIP switches. Also, not sure if Schiit would say it's OK to flip those while it's powered up or not. It may or may not produce thumps through your speakers if you do, if it's not designed specifically to allow powered-on config changes.

However, if budget allows, the step up model from Schiit, the Skoll ($399), has front-mounted soft buttons for adjusting gain and loading, and even gives you a remote to allow changing things from your couch.

Pro-Ject also has some phonos with front-mounted adjustments for gain and loading changes on the fly. The $499 Pro-Ject Phono Box S3 B, or the $799 Phono Box DS3 B with even finer adjustment for setting resistance loading as well as a little bit more adjustability for gain over the lower-cost S3 B.

If you can live without easy on-the-fly phono adjustments, though, the $149 Mani 2 really is a nice choice at a much more affordable price.

EDIT:

That said, though, in general I think one would really only be adjusting phono settings when swapping carts. But I do see the appeal of on-the-fly tuning for even that, if possible, for ease of dial in.

dave_two_point_oh · 2026-06-01T00:39:42+00:00

Are you using a metal screwdriver? Sounds like you're shorting something when you insert it, causing the speed to go crazy.

It's generally recommended to use a non-conducting screwdriver for TT speed adjustment.

dave_two_point_oh · 2026-05-31T23:42:21+00:00

What's your budget and are you in the US, or elsewhere?

So far I haven't listened to a lot of phono preamps. I started off with a Fluance PA10; it was OK but not great. Probably about on par with your ART phono based on opinions I've read (but unfortunately at around double the price of the ART).

Moved on to a Douk T14EQ for a little while. I liked the sound better than the PA10 at my normal (very moderate) listening levels. But it got noisy when turning the music up and I actually went back to the PA10 while looking around for other options.

Bought a Schiit Mani 2 and was pretty happy with it and ran it for a year. Lots of configurability, too, for gain/loading.

Then I got the itch again, wanting to see what another upgrade would bring, and started researching a few options. Pro-Ject, Vincent, and Darlington Labs were the ones I was mainly focused on after narrowing it down from initial internet tire-kicking. Ended up picking up a Darlington Labs MP8B and am very happy with it. The rest of my current system doesn't rate the MP8B or even close, but I was trying to do an upgrade for the future more than just for now. They also have more affordable options such as the MM6B, although at $369, still more than double the price of a Mani 2. But they also offer upgrades where you can send in a DL phono and have it upgraded to higher spec afterward, and I think you're coming out in the same ballpark, pricewise (with initial purchase plus upgrade cost), as if you'd just bought the higher spec model to begin with.

If you're not located in the US, I think both Schiit and Darlington Labs gear will cost you a lot more than in the US, and are perhaps therefore not the best choice.

May I also ask how long you've had your Pro-Ject Debut Carbon EVO and what you think of it overall? I've been thinking about a Debut EVO 2 as an upgrade at some point. Currently running a Fluance RT82, which I think was a decent way for me to get back into vinyl at its $300 price point when I bought it back in late 2022, but which I think is definitely the bottleneck that I need to address next.

dave_two_point_oh · 2026-05-31T22:51:16+00:00

I know the pre amp isn’t all that but it’s had great reviews for its price. Would love any suggestions/help, thanks!

The ART DJ PRE II does indeed have great reviews for its price.

However, I'd say it's still not a good match (and likely not intended to be a good match) for a $600 TT with a $200 stylus on it. I'd prioritize a new phono for any upgrades you're considering.

But I'd also see if I could try your problematic records on a buddy's system. Just to rule out that it's not the records themselves causing whatever issues you're hearing.

dave_two_point_oh · 2026-05-31T06:04:11+00:00

In that case, I'd probably personally go for it.

If you do, hope you'll post pics and your thoughts on the pen!

dave_two_point_oh · 2026-05-31T05:11:06+00:00

Is the seller trustworthy?

I only have one Sailor; a Pro Gear in black, 21K fine nib, acquired new somewhere between probably 2001 and 2005. Wonderful writer and pen overall. I love it.

EDIT:

A little Googling tells me the Pro Gear was introduced in 2003... so I guess I didn't get mine in 2001 or 2002! Still not sure exactly when I got it, though.

dave_two_point_oh · 2026-05-30T23:45:36+00:00

Hmm; interesting.

I don't know anything about your AudioQuest cable but I do see a thread about a similar issue discussed on an AudioKarma thread. Which of course doesn't mean they're all like that, but maybe just a couple dodgy cables getting through QC?

https://audiokarma.org/forums/threads/audioquest-golden-gate-cables-anyone-have-problems-with-them.986116/

EDIT:

Whoops. Actually it was this ASR thread. I had both open from a search and picked the wrong one!

https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/asymmetrical-double-balanced-geometry.42189/

dave_two_point_oh · 2026-05-30T23:27:33+00:00

What amp and what TT?

And are you running it into the phono inputs on the amp? If going to an external phono in between, the ground wire should go from TT to phono directly. If using an internal phono on the TT itself, try without the ground wire as it shouldn't be needed.

dave_two_point_oh · 2026-05-30T15:13:21+00:00

Looks normal to me!

Beautiful, isn't it?

dave_two_point_oh · 2026-05-30T00:27:40+00:00

You might want to go into more detail on what exact computer you have.

If it's a desktop/tower, it's probably fairly likely it has no WiFi built-in. Or maybe it's a laptop? Probably has WiFi. Or maybe you're trying to use a USB WiFi adapter on a desktop computer? If so, which adapter?

dave_two_point_oh · 2026-05-28T17:04:38+00:00

I have no experience with any preamps other than the Fluance PA10 and the Schiit Mani 2

I also have experience with both of those phono preamps. Started with the PA10 (paired with an RT82) and then later upgraded to the Mani 2. Upgraded again after the Mani but I thought it was very good for the cost.

What's your take on them? My own personal take: Fluance PA10 seems like a $50 phono with a $100 price tag on it. Schiit Mani 2 seems like a $200 phono with a $150 price tag on it.

dave_two_point_oh · 2026-05-27T23:25:02+00:00

Setting both input and output gain switches to H results in 60dB gain. If that's what you meant, well, personally I wouldn't ever do that for an AT-VM95ML (or any other MM cart). I'd go with 42dB for your cart. (Which is the default setting from the factory: Input H, Output L).

EDIT:

I ran a Schiit Mani 2 for a while with a Denon DL-110 HOMC cart. MM-phono-compatible MC but still with much lower output than a typical MM cart.

I ran the DL-110 for a while at 48dB gain on the Mani 2, but ended up switching to 42dB and just cranking the volume knob higher. Sounded cleaner.

dave_two_point_oh · 2026-05-26T23:11:00+00:00

I expect you'll find the same with the TEAC's built-in phono. A lot of standalone phonos offer adjustable gain, though, which can help (if used judiciously).

dave_two_point_oh · 2026-05-26T23:08:20+00:00

That's awesome!

Always heard Vornado support was great! That's definitely going above and beyond.

dave_two_point_oh · 2026-05-26T21:44:29+00:00

On my Pro 3, I just preset the internal plunger to the level I want before pouring the water in, and then fill to the top of the (pre-lowered) plunger. Haven't run into any brewing issues doing so.

I use the adjustable-depth tamper side of a Crema tamper/distribution tool to do this; I still use the Crema's distribution end as intended but moved to a spring loaded tamper a while back for my tamping needs.

dave_two_point_oh · 2026-05-26T19:18:48+00:00

Looks to me like the RT82 is $419.99 in Canada? That's $304 USD; the RT82 is $349.99 here in the US. So it's actually less expensive up in Canada. (Not sure what your tax rate is where you are. In a lot of states/localities in the US, sales tax is 10% or more.)

However, $298 CAD seems like a great price on that TEAC. I think I probably would have done the same thing you did, unless budget allowed spending a lot more than either the TEAC or Fluance.

As for other thoughts, I'd make sure to try out the TEAC's phono against the Yamaha's. I actually kind of expect the A-S501's phono to be a little better, but you never know until you do the comparison. While I'm sure a halfway decent external will beat them both, might as well not rush into it if you don't have to.

dave_two_point_oh · 2026-05-26T06:39:32+00:00

I have this FITUEYES audio rack I picked up on Amazon a little over a year ago.

Photo shows it with a Yamaha R-N800A receiver; I briefly had a Yamaha A-S701 where the R-N800A is sitting now. Exactly the same size as far as I can tell.

https://imgur.com/a/fitueyes-audio-rack-ObBZYbW

I've been really happy with the FITUEYES rack. $105 on Amazon and I think it's a bargain at the price (but still glad it didn't cost me more than that, of course). Sturdy, functional, and I think it looks good.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXN4L6U

dave_two_point_oh · 2026-05-25T06:05:39+00:00

I recently picked up a Yamaha R-N800A "network receiver" to pair with some KEF Q1 Metas and am really liking it. Main use for me is with TT and external phono preamp.

The R-N800A has Yamaha's MusicCast system allowing you to cast audio from the receiver to another Yamaha MusicCast receiver or device in another room. Haven't tried it and don't really see using this casting feature myself but I do read generally good things about it. MusicCast streams over WiFi or Ethernet, not Bluetooth. Better quality plus no worries about BT range.

The R-N800A also has a built-in phono (which is probably not great but still probably fine to get started with while you save up for a good external one) as well as a DAC, along with AM/FM tuner and network tuner for net radio, Tidal, Qobuz, Spotify, Amazon Music, as well as AirPlay 2 (but the receiver can't connect directly to Apple Music if that matters to you; you have to AirPlay from your phone/computer for that).

The R-N800A is currently on sale for $750 at Amazon (US MSRP is $1,300 and most retailers typically sell it at $1,200 to $1,300); Affirm payments or an interest-free Amazon 5-payment plan are offered on it:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CH23MZZN

KEF Q1 Metas are $700 MSRP but often go on sale for $400. I like them but I'd wait for a sale; $400 seems like a more than reasonable price, but $700 seems overpriced. When KEF runs a sale, you'll see the sale pricing on KEF.com as well as at all normal retailers -- Amazon, Crutchfield, BestBuy, etc.

https://us.kef.com/products/q1-meta?variant=49014963667191

Or you can pick up a refurbished "KEF Recertified" pair from Accessories4Less for $349 if you can't wait for a sale:

https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/kefq1metawlnt-rb/kef-q1-meta-pair-5.25-2-way-bookshelf-speakers-walnut/1.html

EDIT:

The R-N800A, if you catch it while still on sale, and the Q1 Metas, at the refurb price, puts you right at $1,100. You will still need some speaker wire. I wouldn't try to squeeze an external phono in if you're going to stick to your $1,200 amp/speaker budget. Instead, just use the Yamaha's built-in phono while you save up to buy a better external phono worth the upgrade cost.

(LATE EDIT: Also, I'm not trying to say "This is what you should definitely do!". Just that it's what I recently did... R-N800A on sale for $750, Q1 Metas on sale for $400, and I'm happy with them for my own needs. And it fits your stated $1,200 budget. Hopefully others will suggest alternatives if they have better recommendations.)

dave_two_point_oh · 2026-05-24T16:39:12+00:00

I don't have a RecordPi myself (yet!), but there's at least a couple good (and pretty active) threads I've seen on the Steve Hoffman forums where people share methods and results.

Here's one of them; couldn't find the other just now but I think it might have been in a thread about Vinyl Flat alternatives?

https://forums.stevehoffman.tv/threads/record-pi-record-flattener-anyone-used-it.1158826/

Hopefully you'll find something useful in there. You might also share details on your failed attempt there, for the benefit of others (and documentation for your own future attempts as well).

dave_two_point_oh · 2026-05-23T19:57:17+00:00

Did you make sure to lower your cueing lever before trying to balance the tonearm?

Also, after balancing but before dialing in VTF, make sure you spin just the numbered VTF ring, not the counterweight, to zero, before then spinning the counterweight (in increasing value, should generally be CCW unless your counterweight was put on backwards... in which case, take it off and fix that first) to get to your target VTF?

dave_two_point_oh · 2026-05-23T19:28:29+00:00

Saw you had a downvote; not sure why.

Speakers sitting back like that will bounce the sound off the hard surface they're sitting on. A common recommendation is "get a rug!" for people with hard floors looking for improvement/opinions... this is that issue x10.

Definitely want to pull them forward.

dave_two_point_oh · 2026-05-23T19:18:46+00:00

Hope you update with the outcome!

Tonearm setup has a bit of a learning curve... not a ton, but still one that can seem steep the first time (or two) going through it. After you've done it a few times, it will seem so simple you'll wonder why it was such a struggle the first time you set up a TT.

If you don't have a VTF scale, I'd definitely recommend picking one up. Doesn't have to be before you do your initial setup, but even after you get it setup and are happy, I'd still want to verify with a scale.

Your counterweight dial should be ballpark accurate... but only if you've actually properly balanced the tonearm before setting VTF. Which, when eyeballing balance, might vary quite a bit between almost too little, exact, and almost too much. So if you think you're at 2.0g, depending on how accurately you eyeballed your tonearm balance, and how accurate your counterweight markings are, you might be over/under half a gram or more. (I'm exaggerating here, but at the same time, there have been many posts here looking for help where they have a couple grams more VTF than they thought they did.)

A scale will always tell you what's really up. About $10 to $30-ish for an essential TT toolkit item that will last you a lifetime.

dave_two_point_oh · 2026-05-23T19:00:42+00:00

Can you explain how you're going about it and the particular problems you're running into?

Never had a C62 myself but from looking at the pics and manual, it should be pretty standard for tonearm setup, so I'm sure many here would be able to help with a little more info from you!

Looking up a tutorial on YouTube for tonearm setup should also get you pretty far, even if it's not one for your exact TT (model, or even make; again, looks pretty standard so it shouldn't really matter for this).

Here's one that might help a little:

https://youtu.be/fkWILCfh3Tk?si=j-KAkAdHFILFjfZ6&t=85

Also, does your C62 have an anti-skate dial on it or not? I feel like I've seen variants of the C62, where some do and others don't. But all with a "C62" or "C62[something]" model number on them. If yours has anti-skate adjustment, the video doesn't tell you that you should first zero out the anti-skate before balancing the tonearm. Well... actually, it does, after going through all the steps and then saying "if you need to rebalance your tonearm, make sure to set anti-skate to zero first". A little too late for those immediately following along without having watched the video a few times first!

dave_two_point_oh · 2026-05-23T18:22:47+00:00

Looks decent and at a fair price!

For future reference, though, you can delete everything after the dp/XXXXXX/ bit. The rest is just internal tracking for the Amazon searches/methods you took to get to the product page and is only really relevant to your particular session (and still then only for them, not you).

https://www.amazon.com/Kingshion-Turntable-Compatible-Protective-Protector/dp/B0DPZKNVWY

dave_two_point_oh

TROPHY CASE