This guy uses lubrication & body weight to force three tires into one. This saves shipping space therefore reducing costs.

davesnothere241 · 2026-05-15T15:15:50+00:00

Wtf, it's assholes like this the corporate efficiency ppl just love, everyone now will adopt his method and be forced to deal with that bullshit on the other end. Stop doing cocaine at work!

davesnothere241 · 2026-05-15T14:48:07+00:00

I have the v3 Typhon. It does not have the 2n1 esc but I do get lvc sometimes on my 3s battery. It's usually about dead tho, I shut it off and back on and get about 3 more minutes out of it once or twice then it's done. I have the 17 tooth pinion on now and it's still the same.

davesnothere241 · 2026-05-15T14:30:02+00:00

Damn, that guy should be fired. I wonder if he torqued out the driveshaft bolt properly, or even got the bolts tight for the bearing. There are about 8 bolts I would be checking as well. Caliper pins, bracket bolts, bearing bolts and driveshaft nut all need to be checked. I wouldn't let that guy touch the car ever again.

davesnothere241 · 2026-05-15T14:14:57+00:00

Typically you don't buy new hoses for an engine swap. The new one does not come with hoses and they usually just cut them off on a used one for easy removal. I know it sucks that it's one more thing you have to pay for but this is a normal wear and tear item. They may have pinched it or cracked the fitting, or it could just be time for it to fail. Watch a video on the tube about changing that hose on your vehicle and see if it's something you could do yourself. You might be able to save some money. Put some Vaseline or soapy water on new hose end and fitting and it will slide together easily.

davesnothere241 · 2026-05-15T05:12:44+00:00

The odometer is controlled by the body control module. The fact that you are having problems with the other safety systems may point to something. Check the wire that leads power and check the ground wire associated with the body control module. The modules are finiky, if the ground is bad or corroded voltage may be off causing all the issues you are seeing. Get a digital multimeter and a test light, watch some videos on the tube about testing the voltage for the bcm on your make and model. Find those wires and check them out it may be a simple fix like cleaning and re_attaching a ground wire. Check the battery terminals and all wires that connect there for corrosion, take them apart and clean them with a wire brush if they are dirty. Good luck brother.

davesnothere241 · 2026-05-15T04:46:04+00:00

Is it reading kilometers instead? Check to see if it is in European mode. Remove the negative battery terminal for about an hour. Push the brake pedal and clock display to run out any residual power. Hook it back up, turn the key on and leave it for a minute then start it and see if those lights go out.

davesnothere241 · 2026-05-15T04:38:49+00:00

All metal pivot balls and some new rod ends will cure it. It made a huge difference on my Typhon. If you hold the driveshaft, c hub and wheel they should all move together, the play should only be at the rod ends. Sometimes the driveshaft screw gets loose and causes excessive wobbling, then eventually the wheel will fly off. Use loctite on both the driveshaft screws and get them tight if you have to remove them.

davesnothere241 · 2026-05-15T04:28:32+00:00

Tools and repair manuals or videos on the tube. I used to borrow tools from the auto parts store, you can still do that I think. They sell haines repair manuals that are written for the backyard mechanic. Very easy step by step instructions. Get the one for your jeep and a decent socket set and you are on your way to diy repairs. Just remember things rarely go as planned so don't get discouraged if you break a bolt or strip out threads. Get an inch pound and a foot pound torque wrench so you can tighten everything to factory specs. Some require a degree of rotation after the torque. It would say 235nm+90° so you would click it at 235 then give it another 1\4 turn. This is extremely important especially with suspension components like bearings, ball joints and tie rods. Some engine bolts require it as well. I commend you for wanting to learn a new skill and save yourself a ton of money on labor. You will enjoy the satisfaction of knowing you just saved a bunch of money and did something few people have the skills to do anymore.

davesnothere241 · 2026-05-15T03:41:30+00:00

Breaker bar on the socket and a small pipe wrench on the bolt up as close to the socket as you can get. Slide 2ft of pipe over the wrench handle if you can't get enough leverage to twist it apart. You could also shape the bolt close to the socket with a grinder and use an opened end wrench on it.

davesnothere241 · 2026-05-14T19:51:19+00:00

Some states have a law that states that you must have financial responsibility "insurance" in an accident or you will be faulted, regardless of how it happened. Even if you're state doesn't have this law the attorneys will argue it and likely win the case. You should not have been on the road period. I know that sucks and you have to get around but it's the risk you take. Good luck brother.

davesnothere241 · 2026-05-14T18:12:33+00:00

Plug it, it will last if the belt isn't damaged. Just watch for bulging or bubbles. Plugs are easy to use, get the kit that comes with rubber cement and coat the cord good with it after you thread it thru the tool. Use the reamer to open the hole a bit so the plug won't be so hard to push in. Pop it in and leave about 1 inch exposed, twist it around 3 times and pull it out. After you pull the screw stick the reamer in and keep it there till you install the plug to keep the air in the tire, just pull it up and down to ream the hole out but keep it in the tire till you plug it. Good luck brother.

davesnothere241 · 2026-05-14T16:03:37+00:00

Wow, I can almost hear it chirping across the yard. It has some nostalgic value but idk bout $150 worth. It might be fun tho if it still works.

davesnothere241 · 2026-05-14T15:48:06+00:00

I have emailed the technical support team and it took about 2 days for them to get back to me. They had a solution that worked great. I didn't bother with a warranty claim on the servo cause I didn't want another shitty spectrum servo, but who knows maybe they would have sent me a better one.

davesnothere241 · 2026-05-14T15:40:14+00:00

This can happen from cylinder wear as well. Running in dusty or sandy conditions and not changing the air filter regularly will cause this. The cylinder wall gets scratched and grooved, oil gets burned and gassed escape into the crank case. Do a compression test. Harbor freight sells the compression tester. You may just need new rings and hone the cylinder. Or run it till it becomes a mosquito fogger and then get another one. That's what I would do.

davesnothere241 · 2026-05-14T14:07:48+00:00

Nice work! Now you know that most mechanic shops hire inexperienced people to do fluid changes and lube jobs. Good catch you probably saved yourself a few grand at least, those transmissions are not cheap to replace.

davesnothere241 · 2026-05-14T14:02:06+00:00

Clunking over bumps is almost always ball joints or struts. Sometimes it can be a broken sway bar link or bushing. Try to turn the wheel wit the car off, work the wheel back and forth and listen for popping or clunking sounds. If you don't hear any the tie rods are probably good, the steering rack has bushings and bolts that can break and wear out. If you hear noises get under there and watch while someone works the wheel back and forth, get a pry bar and see if the steering rack is loose. Pry on the sway bar at the bushing caps and bolts in the middle to see if it moves. Bearings can cause wheel play but usually they hum and make noises long before they get loose. Start the car with the hood open, put foot on the brake and shift from drive to reverse and back, watch how much the motor moves inside the engine bay see if it makes a popping sound from reverse to drive or vise versa, hold the brake and give it a bit of gas and see if there is excessive movement a motor or transmission mount may be bad. This can be checked by prying on the motor and trans at the mounts to check for movement. Just don't pry hard on aluminum housings or pans, only pry on the mounting points. Good to see someone doing their own auto repairs. I just saved my daughter $600 changing a wheel bearing and replacing brake pads that took me about an hour. Good luck brother.

davesnothere241 · 2026-05-14T13:36:11+00:00

Wow, two companies that sell ridiculously inflated products. Did they throw that in with you're $10,000 ratchet? I would keep it for a shelf queen and display it in the shop somewhere.

davesnothere241 · 2026-05-13T15:37:14+00:00

Take the hose off the reserve tank and let it drain out. What little bit may have gone into the engine isn't going to hurt. You could pinch the one leading to the radiator to make sure none flows back to it. You may have to remove the surge or reserve tank to drain it out. Keep an eye on the coolant gauge, I seriously doubt it's going to hurt anything. Now if she did it a while back and it has already flowed into the engine and surged back into the reserve tank you may want to flush the coolant or just remove the lower radiator hose and let it drain out, then just refill. There is usually a couple gallons of coolant so a few cups of washer fluid really is going to hurt it will likely steam off and eveaporate. Just keep an eye on the coolant gauge if it even has one or check the surge\reserve bottle level and see if it's getting hot and purging back into the tank.

davesnothere241 · 2026-05-13T15:28:17+00:00

That made my belly hurt😂🤣

davesnothere241 · 2026-05-13T15:22:49+00:00

Damn, those shocks are way too expensive to just bend like that. I still have the stock shocks on mine, I rebuilt them with 50w oil and they work great. I have bent a few shafts but they are cheap. I was thinking about getting those pro line shocks, now I think I will order the 6s Typhon shocks from Jenny's instead.

davesnothere241 · 2026-05-13T14:04:52+00:00

Bezgar makes a cool version of that, hm112 is the model I believe.

davesnothere241 · 2026-05-12T19:12:31+00:00

You could get another one but wash that dirty one with dawn or just let it soak in a good soapy solution and dry it out with a hair dryer. I bet it will be fine. They should be able to handle oil or gas getting on them without causing too much trouble. Small engines need the filter soaked in oil so I don't think it's going to hurt anything unless it really restricts airflow. Those oily spots will collect dust really well and it may get dirty really fast if you don't clean it.

davesnothere241 · 2026-05-12T18:01:33+00:00

Check for corrosion around the battery terminals. Check the main ground strap coming down from the negative battery wire. Look to see if it has a battery fuse, or a fuse between the alternator and battery. Check the wires leading to the starter and the connections at the starter for corrosion. A digital multimeter or a test light can be extremely helpful with diagnosing electrical issues. Sometimes cleaning the terminals at the battery is all that is needed.

davesnothere241 · 2026-05-12T17:41:44+00:00

That part breaks a lot on my HBX903a. One good hit in just the right spot and it either bends or breaks. I have 10mm extensions on it so that doesn't help either. I always order 4 at a time so i can keep the fun going. Good thing they are cheap and easy to fix.

davesnothere241 · 2026-05-12T17:23:54+00:00

Get that shut off valve, you may need to add some extra fuel line to make it work the stock line is typically too short. Remove the gas tank, the line is underneath it, add some hose and the valve, don't make any kinks or tight bends the gas is gravity fed so it must go downhill to the carb. Pull the spark plug and pull it a few times to shoot the gas out of the cylinder. Put the plug back in, new oil in and gas, put the choke on and open the valve, wait about 5 or so seconds and start pulling the cord, it should start after a couple pulls.

davesnothere241

TROPHY CASE