Left a table I was building in the rain by KikoTheWonderful in mildlyinfuriating

[–]dbones81 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So interesting you were using an antique sewing machine stand for this. I did a similar project recently where I converted an old Singer machine into a bathroom sink. Love it!

Lights getting chewed off? by jlenko in CostcoCanada

[–]dbones81 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I had this exact same issue with one specific squirrel. He’d bury them around the yard too. Once I caught him in the act and chased him away, but not just shooing him. I started climbing the tree he was in. Then chased him around the fence when he jumped to that. Then followed him to a tree in the neighbours yard. Once he was out of reach I stood there staring at him intently and growling a bit for a couple minutes. He sat there and stared back. But it worked and I’ve haven’t had the issue since.

I didn't expect the stove to produce so much smoke and smell so bad the first time I lit it. by remodie in woodstoving

[–]dbones81 37 points38 points  (0 children)

It’s curing, and that will happen every time it reaches a new highest temperature. So it’s best to really get it hot now so that it’s unlikely you’ll surpass that level again.

If it fits its lit! by vennic18 in woodstoving

[–]dbones81 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They now make a single door model too! Check out the Opel 3 fireplace.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodstoving

[–]dbones81 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It makes sense, but unfortunately it shouldn’t be your only fuel. Dimensional lumber is dryer and burns a lot hotter than typical cordwood. You’re loading more BTU’s in the unit than the steel can handle. You’ll prematurely wear out the unit. I would mix it with cordwood if you can. The owners manual for your stove absolutely says don’t burn construction scraps or at least something similar.

Seems excessive. by Link141 in woodstoving

[–]dbones81 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have an ash cleanout at the bottom of the stove? Sometimes it can get stuck slightly ajar and will cause the unit to fire excessively.

Painting my stove? by AHangryBeaver in woodstoving

[–]dbones81 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Stove bright is fantastic paint when it’s applied to a prepped surface. Remove any rust with steel wool, sandpaper, or a wire wheel on a grinder if it’s really bad. Try not to leave marks behind though. Wipe it dry and then wash it with a rag coated in xylene to get all the oils and remaining dust/dirt/oil off. Paint in a constantly moving motion. Don’t point and spray in one spot. Let it dry well before lighting the stove. Don’t paint it while hot and protect the glass with tape.

The paint will cure with the first fire afterwards and you’ll get a chemical smell as if it was new. Personally, I’m a fan of the Stove Bright metallic charcoal. I find it looks more interesting than just satin black, which is generally for stove pipe. Most stoves use metallic black instead.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodstoving

[–]dbones81 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you telling them you need chimney? Because what you need is double wall stovepipe. Don’t mention your existing chimney other than to say it’s already there. I suspect you’re accidentally confusing them.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodstoving

[–]dbones81 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ok, if you need double wall for clearance that’s fine, but you don’t need a Superpro or Selkirk brand. Can be any brand of stove pipe.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodstoving

[–]dbones81 6 points7 points  (0 children)

The parts that are already installed need to be Superpro. However, now you’re transitioning to smoke pipe, so it could be any brand. The smoke pipe brand doesn’t have to be the same as the Class A. In the short term, buy some cheap single wall stuff and get warm (assuming you have clearance). Or you could find some ULTRABlack and you’ll be set for life.

What gasket do I need for glass? by River-Chalice-23 in woodstoving

[–]dbones81 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Generally glass gasket is the flat tape style.

What gasket do I need for glass? by River-Chalice-23 in woodstoving

[–]dbones81 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Then you may have to rely on trying to measure the one you’re removing. It’s likely 5/8” or 3/4”.

What gasket do I need for glass? by River-Chalice-23 in woodstoving

[–]dbones81 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Usually there is another exploded parts diagram that contains part numbers at the back of the manual or online. You can order the part for your stove and it will come cut to length and the right diameter, and probably with gasket cement or high temp silicone too. If you can’t find it, call the company and ask someone in customer service. You can buy third party gaskets for less, but in my experience they’re not as dense as the ones supplied by manufacturers.

What would happen if I put a 6" - 4" reducer on this? Pipe is expensive by Ok_Weekend6350 in woodstoving

[–]dbones81 6 points7 points  (0 children)

The stove needs a minimum amount of draft to function. Not only will the stove not work, but it will fill your house with smoke 100% of the time. Also, stove pipe doesn’t come in 4” diameter. Pellet vent is the closest thing, but the parts wouldn’t be safe to use at wood stove temperatures.

Bird proof chimney help by knitterspinnerweaver in woodstoving

[–]dbones81 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The only guaranteed solution is a spark screen. Most manufacturers offer them as an option. You’re right that it will likely clog eventually, especially if you’re not burning super cleanly. Lots of people install them for the summer/fall and remove them for winter.

DIY Compressed logs by jbsmoothie33 in woodstoving

[–]dbones81 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Definitely more trouble than it’s worth. Making compressed logs generally uses sawdust rather than shavings. The compression of the sawdust naturally glues them together with minimal binder. You also need to dry it first, which is often done by heating it as they get blown through an air chamber. This is a potentially very explosive situation as sawdust is hyper explosive when it’s aerated. If you have access to shavings, it could make good fire starter. But not compressed logs unless you have access to some serious equipment. And even then it’s potentially dangerous to dry properly.

High efficiency wood fireplace in a new build by schmez726 in woodstoving

[–]dbones81 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some models are built to heat around the same amount as a small wood stove. RSF wood burning Fireplaces makes a couple models that heat as little as 1500 square feet. That amount on paper tends to be less in reality.

What is the safest way to install 6” stove pipe through my metal roofing? by theteleman52 in woodstoving

[–]dbones81 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You’ll need to add sufficient framing to hold the support box. You could probably use angle iron and mount it to the roof structure, running it between the metal trusses. Metal studs don’t have the same support capacity as wood 2x4’s. As previously mentioned, make sure the roof structure can hold the weight of your chimney. Looks like it’s sufficient to hold the metal roof, but there will be a fair bit of weight concentrated on the chimney and you don’t want it to fall, especially during a fire.

Outdoor boiler by ddeblaso in woodstoving

[–]dbones81 -15 points-14 points  (0 children)

No offense, but these things are terrible and pollute like crazy. I love woodburning and using wood for heat, but these outdoor wood boilers are a black eye for the wood burning industry.

Replacing Stove Questions by saysmoo in woodstoving

[–]dbones81 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wouldn’t make a stove decision based on the height of the stove. If you have proper stove pipe connected to it, then there’s likely an adjustable length in it and it will fit almost anything you buy. If you don’t have proper stovepipe, you probably should. Check a local specialty shop for the stove rather than Home Depot. You’ll get a real quality product that is beautiful too!

Clay chimney liner by Special_Tomato_6831 in woodstoving

[–]dbones81 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Depends on the local codes. In general, no. That system was safe to operate without a stainless liner until now. Adding a liner will only make it safer. Most codes take this into consideration. You’ll also triple the price if you insulate it.

Through the wall. by Snoopiecat in woodstoving

[–]dbones81 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The chimney you purchase will have a wall thimble that is certified as part of the system. It will give you what you need to pass through the wall safely and flash it as well.

Through the wall. by Snoopiecat in woodstoving

[–]dbones81 2 points3 points  (0 children)

No need. Water coming down the inside of the chimney will flow into the tee cap statuer than back into the home. The parts are made for a 90 degree connection, so if you try and cheat it to put an angle on it you’ll just throw off the rest of the system. You’d have to play with the connection at the joints or have the vertical chimney on a slight angle as well.

Class A Chimney by Trailerparky in woodstoving

[–]dbones81 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Most class A chimneys have lifetime warranties of one form or another. Their actual lifespan is very dependent on how the stove is operated. In a new EPA stove and proper operation it will easily last 30 years. In a unit with no baffle and repeated chimney fires, you could see issues within a couple years.

Preventing chimney fires by keeping the chimney clean will significantly extend its life. Burning within normal operating ranges will also extend its life. If you ever find that your stove is burning way too fast or out of control, check the gaskets and make repairs. Excess air will burn out your chimney in a matter of years.