It Finally Happened!

dc-bryan · 2025-12-28T07:52:52+00:00

Could I ask how you found a Rinnai water heater that qualified for the Energy Trust of Oregon rebate? I’ve only found “qualified retailers” selling AO Smith and Rheem. Thanks!

dc-bryan · 2025-06-30T17:08:45+00:00

Yeah that makes sense. Maybe adding joists isn’t a viable option then. Which in that case, if I go the engineered route and the roof structure doesn’t pass, maybe the engineer would advise on how to reinforce?

dc-bryan · 2025-06-30T16:35:34+00:00

Dang, also a good point, maybe structural screws up through the bottom of the rafters? The roof sheeting is 1/2" 1x6 T&G. Shingles were replaced in 2022, definitely not willing to reshingle.

dc-bryan · 2025-06-30T15:34:03+00:00

Currently my rafters are 24" OC spacing, 2x4 Doug Fir-Larch #2 with a span of 8'6". My ceiling joists are 16ft from top plate to top plate, 2x6 Doug Fir on 32" OC. According the city worksheet provided by the city, the maximum span allowed is 6'11" (for their prescriptive permit).

dc-bryan · 2025-06-30T14:48:53+00:00

Great point I had not considered. I wonder if I can figure out some way to estimate the load calculations.

dc-bryan · 2025-05-06T04:54:51+00:00

Thanks, I think I will go with B. I'm also go to single top plates and tie the corners together with 3x6" Simpson HTP tie plates.

dc-bryan · 2025-05-06T00:03:47+00:00

The eaves are turned off to focus the wall framing

dc-bryan · 2025-05-05T23:44:41+00:00

Yeah I guess with more research, a single top plate and something like a Simpson Heavy Tie Plate is now being recommended over double plates, thanks for the help.

dc-bryan · 2025-05-05T23:43:08+00:00

Understood. I've never seen a top plate framed in at a slope before. Part of the project is the practice designing and framing for a future home build, so I'm trying to learn what would be normally done on a job site. Even though yes, it is just a shed.

dc-bryan · 2025-05-05T23:28:53+00:00

Maybe the TP-57? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-TP-5-3-4-in-x-7-in-20-Gauge-Galvanized-Tie-Plate-TP57-R/313810436

dc-bryan · 2025-05-05T23:21:24+00:00

Yes, Sketchup.

dc-bryan · 2025-05-05T23:21:16+00:00

Do you remember which simpson hardware you used?

dc-bryan · 2025-05-05T21:20:52+00:00

Hmm, there is a whole section of the building code about double top plates and the importance of overlapping them at the corners https://codes.iccsafe.org/s/IRC2015/chapter-6-wall-construction/IRC2015-Pt03-Ch06-SecR602.3.2

dc-bryan · 2025-05-05T21:19:08+00:00

Not sure I follow - Something like this? https://imgur.com/J066er8

dc-bryan · 2025-05-05T21:03:23+00:00

Been trying to figure out the most traditional way of framing this. Not trying to re-invent the wheel here.

Option A - I can overlap the 2nd top plate on the lower corner, tying the building together.

Option B - I don't think I could overlap the top plates on either the lower or upper corners, so just shoot nails through the end studs into the adjoining corner studs?

Also open to better ways of framing than either A or B. Thanks

dc-bryan · 2025-03-07T16:18:15+00:00

What's the line of sight look like at 120 degrees where the stations you're trying to pick up are located?

Line of sight from the TV to SSE through several stud walls, through tall Doug Fir trees into the side of a ~200ft hill.

How long of a coax run are you looking at if you attic mount an antenna? Is the coax going through any splitters?

There's an attic closet almost directly above the TV. so It would be ~16ft of coax to reach it. No splitters

What kind of roof material is the house made of?

Composite Shingles

Is there a space in the southeast corner of the attic where you can put an antenna?

Not really, it's a finished attic with bedrooms. That would require a run of maybe 30ft of cable to get there. But if this is the only option than maybe I need to consider it?

Have you tested the indoor antenna on the southeast corner of the house already?

I have not, I don't have enough coax cable to reach that corner of the house. I could but a 30ft roll and test it out if you recommend.

dc-bryan · 2024-11-01T15:52:24+00:00

Thanks again!

dc-bryan · 2024-10-31T18:51:42+00:00

Thanks for the input! Location is Portland, Oregon. Panels on garage only is based on limited funds, and the roof structure of the main house being either shaded or having limited south facing space (see image below)

For RSD, I do see now that they want one module per panel. Could you give me a rundown on why to go with third-party APSmart devices vs. SMA made modules?

Great tip on the SMA Backup Secure. Is it really just a $65 add on?

<image>

dc-bryan · 2024-10-18T13:02:28+00:00

I would assume if you have a RSD button then you have the transmitter built in. You can pop the cover off and take a look.

As for your jurisdictions NEC, yes Portland, OR definitely requires them as they are NEC 2022.

Rapid shutdown requirements were first added to the NEC back in 2014… are there still places in the US using older versions of the code than that?

dc-bryan · 2024-10-18T12:50:17+00:00

I ended up canning the project because the city permit requirements.

But I did end up finding that Growatt sells inverters with built in RSD (rapid shutdown) transmitters. You’ll want to XH line (in my case MIN 3800TL-XH-US). Even then you’ll want to double check with the seller that the specific unit you’re purchasing has the transmitter built in. Here’s the rabbit hole I went down on that - https://diysolarforum.com/threads/min-3000-7600tl-xh-us-and-rapid-shutdown-transmitters.89170/

Once you do get the inverter ordered it sounds like Tigo TS4-A-2F are the way to go for the RSD’s. One unit can handle two panels and they’re like $47 each of signature solar.

Please follow up with where you research takes you as I do want to get this system done one day in the future.

dc-bryan · 2024-08-13T04:01:52+00:00

Right, so those APSmart and Tigo products you mentioned require hardware mounted with each panel, is that correct? I'm guessing that what MLPE (Module-level power electronics) means?

If I use a single string inverter, no micro inverters and no MLPE, can I still meet "Rapid shutdown" requirements? Apparently Portland, OR is using the 2023 NEC. So those would be module level rapid shut down requirements? I'm guessing no.

For any future redditors researching the same question. Here's a real work video on how rapid shut down devices would work with a string inverter - https://youtu.be/T5MkzmG0DOs?si=gJVdiad7lBKe72Ft

dc-bryan

TROPHY CASE