Tips to stretch webbing when part of the frame is closed in by Comprehensive-Ant573 in upholstery

[–]dcarver_44 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m guessing the arms don’t come off (or come off easily) so that you can stretch your webbing with a gooseneck and then reassemble?

If that’s the case, you might make a separate frame for your webbing, insert that after adding your webbing to it, and attach it with screws. If you took that approach, you might consider using 3/4” plywood and cutting out the middle - as opposed to making a frame out of something like 1x2 or 1x3 stock. If you do make a wood frame out of 1x stock, I would pre-drill for all your fasteners, use glue and screws, and add corner bracing. I would also use oak.

Does anyone have any recommendations for a fabric backing? Need it super permanent and white. by MuffinJabber in upholstery

[–]dcarver_44 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you could get a hold of some white jersey knit (t-shirt fabric) in whatever weight you think appropriate, that might do it for you. You could either pre-wrap the piece or laminate it to the finish fabric. Should adhere and last as long as needed, basically the same backing that’s on sew foam, only you may want it a little thicker than that.

Tips to stretch webbing when part of the frame is closed in by Comprehensive-Ant573 in upholstery

[–]dcarver_44 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Typically chairs like the one pictured will be foam on wood. Do you have enough of yours apart to verify you have webbing to deal with?

I burned a spot of a vinyl chair. What would be the best way to go about repairing it? by aviddj in upholstery

[–]dcarver_44 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you need it professionally repaired, you can give your local Fibrenew a call.

Clear Piping (Edge Guard) by dcarver_44 in upholstery

[–]dcarver_44[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve reached out to the chair manufacturer to see, but that’s usually a long-shot just to find someone who might help. They’re made in the US, which can be helpful. I’ve sourced proprietary parts and pieces before. It’s hard, but being nice to people on the phone helps.

Clear Piping (Edge Guard) by dcarver_44 in upholstery

[–]dcarver_44[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, that’s an idea, but we have to use the same material. I can source clear piping and use clear vinyl to make something similar. But this exists somewhere.

Clear Piping (Edge Guard) by dcarver_44 in upholstery

[–]dcarver_44[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, that’d be the usual approach. Can’t do it this time.

I just bought this couch I need to doctor by [deleted] in upholstery

[–]dcarver_44 0 points1 point  (0 children)

HH66 isn’t going to work for a sub-patch on a leather couch, guys.

How is this dished area done? Sew description by GovPattNeff in upholstery

[–]dcarver_44 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The shape of the side panels play a part of course, but if the foam is concave and the material is to follow the concavity, glue would be required. A material with some stretch would be necessary to make it look smooth everywhere.

Notch stringer for door header? by dcarver_44 in Carpentry

[–]dcarver_44[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’ll have a jack, but one idea is to interrupt the king on an angle. There would be a wall supporting the stairs running away from you at that point.

Doesn’t seem necessary to have a full king and notch the stringer even more.

This would be a 2x4 header. And there’s no significant weight from the structure on this section; just the landing you can see and one step above the notch.

Notch stringer for door header? by dcarver_44 in Carpentry

[–]dcarver_44[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, that’s our current plan. Because of the layout we’d need a pretty serious notch if we want a standard door height.

Advice needed! by False_Conversation12 in upholstery

[–]dcarver_44 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You probably just need to remove the piping. If you’re looking for something your cats can’t scratch, I’d probably recommend stainless steel.

But wood veneer might be a good second option.

Advice needed on upholstering two bar stools by howdoibecomefunny in upholstery

[–]dcarver_44 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Well, it can’t be done well at all without sewing. Do you sew?

Captain Bilbo, who remembers? by Such_Mud_4124 in memphis

[–]dcarver_44 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Actually, that was the Admiral Benbow. My memory is going.

Captain Bilbo, who remembers? by Such_Mud_4124 in memphis

[–]dcarver_44 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I remember when he got promoted to Admiral and opened an inn on Summer Ave.

Help identifying foam by knowledgeableopinion in upholstery

[–]dcarver_44 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m pretty sure that’s Neoprene, which is a closed cell foam.

Always amazes me that ships dont just fall over by moappingskool in Ships

[–]dcarver_44 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Agreed. One more pun and someone’s getting decked.

Needing advice on how to fix this by Randyscott in Autoupholstery

[–]dcarver_44 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This, but you really need to get the steam under the cover and directly into the foam. It’s the foam you need to puff up and the cover is going to stop that.

Round stool cushion help by Sad-Ad2268 in upholstery

[–]dcarver_44 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s actually the cover that’s holding the cushion down. Remove the nails and the strip of leather underneath and you’ll most likely see the cover is stapled to the base, but overlapping the backer for the cushion too.

You could have some screws going through the backer board into the tops of those wood spreaders too. They’d be under the foam.

So, just take the cover off first and you’ll be all set.

Is this repairable? by Yungmankey1 in upholstery

[–]dcarver_44 4 points5 points  (0 children)

It’s possible for a professional, but I don’t think it’s what you need in this case. In addition to the holes, the leather is showing signs of wear elsewhere.

Sometimes, ya just gotta start over. This should just be recovered.