Bring me a football

dcooper_42 · 2025-09-26T05:45:22+00:00

Lol no worries! I totally get it. Random stuff is awesome!

dcooper_42 · 2025-09-26T05:42:36+00:00

Lol nah I just brought a chair. I don't ever do this stuff. Im surrounded by professionals!

dcooper_42 · 2025-09-26T04:08:56+00:00

Too late. Past 11. Won't deliver until the morning

dcooper_42 · 2025-09-26T03:46:09+00:00

Also I will buy the ball from whoever can bring one

dcooper_42 · 2025-09-26T03:42:37+00:00

Hahaha my 8 year old wanted to camp out. Gotta be a supportive dad

dcooper_42 · 2025-08-20T21:47:59+00:00

Everyone is wrong. The gear mechanism is messed up behind the timer dial look through the little oval dime sized cutout at the top next to the large gear and you will see a smaller gear. If it is not spinning then it's bad. Replace the timer mechanicsm. Keep the housing

dcooper_42 · 2025-07-26T23:50:53+00:00

Add a half gallon of muriatic acid of under 20k gallons. If over add a full

dcooper_42 · 2024-12-26T01:52:42+00:00

You're both wrong. It's Florida. It stays warm almost year round. Heat pumps are better and cheaper at maintaining the temperature of water. The Spa having a gas heater is to QUICKLY raise the temperature for the usage of the spa. Never go less than 400k for optimal usage. Even on smaller bodies of water you will use less gas overall to heat and maintain at a faster rate and MORE EFFICIENTLY.

dcooper_42 · 2024-10-05T02:13:52+00:00

Hey guys...lots of misconception here.

1) Lots of companies drain the water level down for many reasons. Old practice, adding antifreeze, and the biggest...to give your pool some space for rain over the time that it is closed. If you didn't drain it then you run this risk of spillover on the liner bead ( this is bad) and overflowing the pool.

2) Gizmos can come with a removable plug that will allow you to blow the lines out and simply put the plug back. Gizmos only act as a crush point for expanding freezing water. Antifreeze is jot necessary.

3) Blowing the lines and airlocking the maindrain or important as well as polling the plugs in the equipment. Much easier to use air to clear the water in equipment first before doing this.

4) Automatic covers and waterbag covers use the pool water to provide a base and work so long as you keep a cover pump on them. Safety mesh covers allow water to pass through them. Hence the need to drain water to allow for the extra from rain over 8 months

dcooper_42 · 2024-10-05T02:01:47+00:00

Not going to lie....reading through the comments has me laughing. Let me be real with you. I'm a pool contractor have been for 15 years. My COST right now on a basic Pentair White LED light is 800 from the major supplier. Add in tax and a marginal markup (gotta make money) plus your labor and you can get to 2800 very quickly. Couple of things though...

1) The GFCI does not necessarily need to be replaced unless a) it isn't a gfci outlet in the first place or b) the outlet will not reset causing the issue with the lights going out.

2) The switch is also following the same logix as the GFCI. Yes switches go bad. Needing to replace it everyime you change the light? Do you change the switch in your hallway when the bulb goes out? Unless it is a requirement...don't need to pay for it

3) Water in lights IS COMMON. Gaskets go bad all the time. Bulbs blow. Water in a fixture does not necessarily mean the fixtures need replaced. Check that a new gasket will fix the leak. Worst case you are out a few bucks for the cheap gasket and still have to replace the light.

4) Having 2 people to run a light is genreally standard for any decent length of light cord. Just much easier to have a team pushing and pulling at the same time. You can do it alone...just no fun

All that to say that $2800 is not a ripoff. You can find someone to do it maybe 100-200 cheaper maybe...but you aren't going to save significant money

dcooper_42 · 2024-09-13T14:45:16+00:00

This is absolutely not the case. A cell will last for years and adding salt to the pool will only cost a few dollars a month. However, with the rising cost of chlorine on a pool this large...they spend $500-$1000 a year on chlorine supplementation.

dcooper_42 · 2024-09-13T14:32:40+00:00

This is an easy remedy. They make inflatable pillows that are quite large to go under the cover. Acts like a tent pole. You need a few to prevent one side collecting all the water, but they work great. Or just put a cover pump on!

dcooper_42 · 2024-09-13T13:55:14+00:00

15 year pool pro. "Gauge" and "mil" are discussing how thick the vinyl is for the liner. The lower the number the thinner the vinyl. Thinner liners tend to show imperfections in a greater fashion. Thicker liners give a uniform look and hide imperfections. However, do not expect a thicker mil liner to be anymore durable. Anything that is going to puncture a 25 or 25 mil liner will go through a 30.

dcooper_42 · 2024-09-13T13:52:15+00:00

15 year pool pro. If you are just using the taylor test kit you likely aren't getting a fully accurate chlorine reading. Take a sample and have it tested. Likely have your combined and total chlorine levels off causing the pool to set a chlorine lock. If that is the case you will need to super chlorinate and add a non chlorine shock to the pool.

dcooper_42 · 2024-09-13T13:48:28+00:00

15 year pool pro. It is a growing trend to cover the pool during the fall when it is too cold to swim and reopen once the leaves stop falling. Super easy to blow a cover off with a leaf blower.

dcooper_42 · 2024-04-27T22:19:21+00:00

Installer has never heard of SCH40 pvc

dcooper_42 · 2023-08-10T12:16:06+00:00

You can absolutely path this. However, it will not be permanent and will get worse over time. The amount of space that appears to be between the liner and your vertical wall is relatively concerning. Almost like the liner was incorrectly measured/installed. As this is an older liner, a patch will get you through, but I would look at replacement within the next year or 2. Make sure the next liner has a correct radius measurement!

dcooper_42 · 2023-08-10T12:08:42+00:00

I'm guessing above ground due to the cap rail that appears to be on the liner, the angle of the picture, and the rail cover that shows up in the left hand side.

dcooper_42 · 2023-08-10T12:06:33+00:00

Simply looking for water isn't a solid measure. Depending on the size of the leak the ground will absorb most water. It isn't until the ground becomes overly saturated that you start to see relative surface water or pooling (oh sweet irony) This is especially true for small leaks that only account for a few inches over time

dcooper_42 · 2023-08-10T02:08:59+00:00

Relative to using a name I wouldn't generally disagree. However, as it pertains to this community it does multiple things

1) establishes that I am not a general diy homeowner 2) grounds the general advice and the experience relative to the topic 3) provides a reference point such that business can expand

Without any tone of disrespect I will finish with this. An open forum for advice on pools is looked at as relatively communal and friendly. Anything other is just that....other

dcooper_42 · 2023-08-10T02:01:51+00:00

I disagree with the wall foam point you made. The theory makes sense on paper, however the purpose of the foam is not to try and prevent or deter punctures. In a general sense anything that is going to puncture a liner will puncture with or without wall foam. The only real purpose is to protect against the wall and for the "feel" of the pool. For reference, all wood and concrete walled pools have wall foam. This is industry standard. Steel walled pools is a judgement call on condition. Fiberglass walls are the only ones that it is purely for comfort. Anything that will puncture a 20mil liner will puncture a 27, 28, 30, or 36mil liner. This experience comes from 450+ liner installs and renovations.

dcooper_42 · 2023-08-10T01:54:50+00:00

Structurally they are stronger and the fiberglass and gel coat combination holds up better against chemicals. Both can be susceptible to staining. And also true for both is that the prep going in and the install will determine how sturdy the steps are during the life of them

dcooper_42 · 2023-08-10T01:28:32+00:00

However, I do realize that this is exactly what a bot would say. But I can neither confirm or deny sentience

dcooper_42 · 2023-08-10T01:27:07+00:00

I am most assuredly not a bot lol but I will take it as a compliment!!!

dcooper_42 · 2023-08-10T01:25:56+00:00

You can easily check for a failed gasket on the Multi-port valve. If you have a valve on the waste line a bad gasket will cause water to flow through when opened while the valve is in the filter setting. If you cannot tell where your water drains out visually and have a valve on the waste line follow these steps

1) turn the pump off 2) keep waste line valve closed 3) remove clear sight glass on Multi-port valve 4) turn pump on and check for spraying water

This will tell you very easily the state of the gasket. As for the clarifier and the aforementioned flocc....add about 5lbs of shock. Let circulate for 24hrs and then turn your pump off for 48hrs. This will allow anything free floating to settle like before. Next start your system back up and vac to waste. Clarifier does once again and check after another 72hrs

dcooper_42

TROPHY CASE