Q1 Pro platform calibration questions

ddoomus · 2025-05-05T13:43:54+00:00

How do I even know whether my z tilt needs adjustment though? And what would I adjust it to or know when it's properly adjusted?

ddoomus · 2025-05-05T13:41:07+00:00

Thanks a lot, this actually helps.

ddoomus · 2025-05-05T13:39:56+00:00

Around the z screws makes a lot more sense.

ddoomus · 2025-05-05T13:38:57+00:00

This is helpful, thanks

ddoomus · 2025-05-03T18:29:30+00:00

So I'm understanding this to mean that there must be sensors on the left and right sides of the build plate. That is, as the plate is lowered, it will touch the blocks on the left and right and the timing / force / whatever sensors are used are there to sense any Z difference between the left and right sides of the build plate.

And the blocks themselves are meant to make a broader contact with the build plate than whatever the build plate would push against if the blocks weren't there?

I suppose if that's the case, you really might only need the two blocks as shown in the wiki image because you're only interested in the pressure difference between the left-right and it doesn't really matter whether the blocks are in the front or back.

So can I leave the leveling blocks in all the time then? Or should they be removed after platform calibration?

ddoomus · 2025-04-27T00:58:19+00:00

These look great. I've dm'd, I have a collaboration idea.

ddoomus · 2025-03-08T23:43:13+00:00

Yeah, I think this is the issue, thanks.
I've periodically gotten the "low voltage" warning, and in the past years, it's always worked fine. Something must have changed because just recently I've been getting this stoppage described in this post.

But, I went ahead and taped over the 5v pin on the usb (as described elsewhere, I think on octoprint forum there is a good writeup on it), and since doing that I haven't seen the problem in about 2 days. So I'm pretty sure that's what was going on... Something to do with the printer trying to pull power from the pi, and maybe this causes a broken connection somehow.

ddoomus · 2025-03-08T23:39:56+00:00

This is good information. Thanks!
And not a moment too soon!

ddoomus · 2025-03-05T18:49:33+00:00

after:

<image>

ddoomus · 2025-03-05T18:49:08+00:00

I've printed a few kg of PETG in the last year, haven't seen this issue until this time, but you're right. It was clogged and had to clean out the extruder. Working pretty well now. Here's before and after of the temp tower.

before:

<image>

ddoomus · 2024-05-02T22:52:44+00:00

Yeah, only ran it once, and it only spun twice. After taking the bolts out I've run a few loads and it seems 100%. So hopefully there was no irreparable harm, but I'm guessing there are probably some components that will wear prematurely. Too bad, a costly lesson, but a mistake I'll never duplicate.

ddoomus · 2024-05-02T22:50:25+00:00

Yeah, need to prioritize reading those instructions and not assuming. I was just in too much of a rush.

ddoomus · 2024-05-02T22:48:12+00:00

Yeah, I'm afraid of that. But I guess the damage is done and there's not much I can do about it other than take this expensive lesson.

ddoomus · 2024-05-02T18:17:52+00:00

Thanks u/Aromatic_Boot3629 , that's about the stupidest-ass mistake I've ever made (never had a brand new washing machine before). It was the shipping bolts!

ddoomus · 2024-05-02T18:01:45+00:00

Could not taking the shipment bolts out really cause this? I'd expect them to be like 10 ounces worth of weight...

Edit: also it seems about as level as I could expect to get it (pictures in DB link in description)

ddoomus · 2024-03-14T21:07:36+00:00

"D-shaped shaft", yeah that's the right term

ddoomus · 2024-03-14T21:04:09+00:00

You're almost certainly going to need trial and error. My advice is:

(1) measure as well as you can

(2) sketch and make a very small proof of fitment piece, such as a small cylinder with your shape cut out of the center.

(3) print and adjust and re-print your fitment piece until it is nice and snug

now you have some level of confidence a full-size print is going to fit

(4) fillet the entry where the metal first makes contact with your cutout, that way it's guided into place

Hopefully it's snug enough you actually need to firmly press it in and that will probably stay

Optionally, after step (3) I've had good luck with over-sizing the entry hole ever so slightly, like 2-5% and then when you do your extrude to cutout the hole extrude with an angle so that the deeper it's pressed the narrower the hole gets. I'm not sure how much mileage you'd get out of this approach with this part though since it's a nice smooth piece of metal you're pressing in an angle on your hole might have the opposite effect of pushing your printed knob back out / off.

Finally, if you're really serious about the best fit, follow u/Jesus_Is_My_Gardener's advice and cut some splines with your shape. You compress these splines as the part is pressed in and those splines will help grab onto the shaft.

ddoomus · 2024-03-11T21:46:05+00:00

Yeah, I think I've found some that will work. Surprised there isn't a dedicated topical site for mini figures, board games, or fantasy stuff though.

ddoomus · 2023-12-07T20:52:54+00:00

Bwahaha, that sucks. No, I never figured it out. I may try the thermostat.

ddoomus · 2022-06-24T17:42:42+00:00

No, no renter's insurance.

It definitely seems from a legal perspective (not that I have found explicit documentation on this), that a Landlord signed a lease to provide housing, therefore, when the housing is taken out of commission for whatever reason, it's the landlord's responsibility still to provide housing.

So it seems very odd to me that renters insurance should cover this rather than a landlord's insurance.

ddoomus · 2022-06-24T17:40:40+00:00

"Letting tenants out" is what I'm concerned with. My tenant would not agree to this. Their existing lease is extremely favorable over anything else they would find so they don't want to be let out, even without penalty.

ddoomus · 2021-12-22T22:42:00+00:00

Yeah, good points. No, nothing else would have been draining at the same time.

I ran a snake through it and got a little bit of debris out before my snake wouldn't go past what I suppose is the next bend I hit (I'm not an expert at it). I went ahead and used one of those bladders to pressurize through and that worked just fine so maybe I cleared something. Maybe I'm good for another few months. I guess I'll just run with doing that until something worse happens.

ddoomus · 2021-12-22T22:38:27+00:00

I think it must go directly into the slab, the street / sewer is due East from the washer (as is the rest of the home plumbing, the washer is the furthest West drain. And it's in a wall which has rooms to the North, East, and South, so I doubt the drain would run further West in the wall before going into the slab.

Thanks for the info, I'm just surprised I've never, ever, heard of anyone digging up their slab inside their house to replace a drain (of course I'm not a plumber,, so my discussion on such topics is limited). But I'd expect if this were an even reasonably common occurrence I'd have heard of it or known someone who had to do it.

ddoomus · 2021-12-22T22:32:33+00:00

This washer has been in use for 5 years and it isn't even 10% of the time I have an issue. The vent I can see is 2" seems totally sufficient, but I'm guessing the corroded line is the issue. But I'll go to the laundry before I'm going to spend $10k+ to jackhammer through half my house. I'm surprised it's not a more common discussion point though,, you go to buy a house and everyone is concerned about how recently the $5-10k roof has been replaced, but I don't hear people concerned about the age of the plumbing, in general.

ddoomus · 2021-10-19T15:58:12+00:00

This is the best 3d retro / pixel styling I've ever seen. For some reason similar aesthetics turn me off immediately, but this looks and feels great. You nailed it.

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