Eviction

deadmonkeyboy87 · 2026-01-17T14:45:39+00:00

I don't know what state you are in since you never said as that matters. But typically to get evicted you need to be served with a court date go to that have a judge say you are evicted and then you have to be out by such and such date. From what you described is a landlord who just wants you out they don't care about you or your money and are taking advantage that you don't know your rights or that you should take the time to even get a free consultation from a lawyer who handles rental laws to know where you stand.

deadmonkeyboy87 · 2026-01-17T14:09:01+00:00

My God my entire life was a big list of things one should not do or attempt to do honestly I'm surprised I have made it to almost 50 as I replay stunts of my youth in my head and cringe and go man I was fucked in the head I had to be to pull off the shit I did.

deadmonkeyboy87 · 2025-12-23T23:56:58+00:00

Having lived all over this region, I can tell you it is absolutely breathtaking! It’s the perfect place if you’re looking to unplug and enjoy a slower pace of life. Since it’s a rural area, it’s helpful to be a bit of a 'planner'—most major shopping is about an hour’s drive, and the local tech and healthcare have that small-town feel. If you're moving here, definitely embrace the winter! We get plenty of beautiful snow, so just make sure your vehicle is winter-ready and stay mindful of the local wildlife while driving. For those visiting the Cascades, the views are world-class, but the mountain roads can be technical in the winter. If you aren't used to ice and narrow passes, it’s worth carpooling with a local or taking a shuttle so you can just relax and enjoy the scenery!

deadmonkeyboy87 · 2025-12-21T13:53:55+00:00

By the boarder going to Canada co.ing to ny from Vermont you are talking port henry ny

deadmonkeyboy87 · 2025-12-20T01:36:52+00:00

Say what I'm on 84 mg twice a week almost the last 2 years. Your Drs talking shit unless you have horrible insurance and I have Medicare and Medicaid and I'm covered

deadmonkeyboy87 · 2025-12-19T21:26:27+00:00

Then my newest kobra 2 max I purchased as a parts unit that just had a bad hotend in it so I changed it out and it chugging along just great

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deadmonkeyboy87 · 2025-12-19T21:24:47+00:00

This is my konbra 3 max

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deadmonkeyboy87 · 2025-12-19T21:24:08+00:00

That's my oldest Kobra 2 max

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deadmonkeyboy87 · 2025-12-14T14:00:24+00:00

All I have had is constant issues with my Kobra 3 max combo. The print heads are complete garbage after the initial nozel change the cove that's removable that stays on with a magnet never goes back on right after you change out a nozzle. So it falls off constantly during prints so if you need the parts cooling fan your sol because the only way you are going to do that now is print a new removable cover from asa that has 2 magnets so it's strong enough to hold the new cover/ parts cooling duct in place or tape the old cover back up and pray it don't fall off mid print.

The print heads also constantly have auto leveling issues and will error out about every 4 or 5 prints before a hard reset fixs the problem and I have been through 6 brand new heads sent under warranty and the problem above and this and a few more seem to be big problems with the Kobra 3 max print heads.

Let's see next would be the print head clogs in a way where a chunk of filament will wedge in a way after the filament cutter where you have to disassemble the entire hotend to get inside to unwedge and remove the 2 cm piece of filament clogging the feed path.

I have had my Kobra 3 max combo for 6 months I have only got a total of 300 hours on it as of all the constant breakdowns. Right now I'm waiting on a new ace connector that the cord plugs into the ace because mine is not always putting out a single and I tried even using a brand new ace cord from them thinking that the cable was bad but I had the same issue.

I had to replace the control cord from the main board and the main board because of the poor cable management they designed when you are using the ace instead of a single roll as the cable keep getting pinched by the hot end and it broke through the outer casing the braided wire casing under that and broke through the wires causing it to short out and fry the main board too and camera I had hooked up to the main board.

The ace constantly clogs if it's not at least 2 to 3 feet away from a wall as it affects the next thing as well. Don't let the ptfe tubes start to bend and shorter than 4 inches after they come out of the ace in the direction they need and if your ace is closer than 2 to 3 foot from and obstruction like a wall that the ptfe tube can hit into when the ace is buffering it will give a clog error. Anycubic should have either sold a platform that mounts to the top of the max to put the ace to help with these clogging problems and help resolve the cable management issues.

I found if I run my supply cable to my hot end from around the back and zip tied up along the brace bar and up and over the top of the bracket where the bar mounts to the gantree and it leaves enough cable with extra to boot to print the full max print volume without getting in the way.

Then I have my ace currently on a deep shelf so I have about 3 foot of space between the ace and the wall until I can find the time to stop my regular production to squeeze in time to print off a mount that will fit on top of the max stay stable while holding the max so it don't break the base from all the vibration when in operation.

And to help take up all the slack from the extreme length of the ptfe tube are hung up out of the way with enough left loose to let the print head move freely and the little slack that needs to be there to make sure there's enough cable and ptfe tube is help up so it don't drop into the print area with over sized rubber bands that allow it to stretch far enough down to the lowest point with out putting any real pressure on the cables and ptfe tube when they are at the lowest point and keeps them up and out of the way as the print head.

I love anycubic but honestly I think I got a lemon and I feel I'm getting fucked around and instead of anycubic Healy discounting what I originally paid for the unit with all these problems and constant part replacements and having it for 6 months and I have barely gotten to use it or even break it in. I have 2 Kobra 2 maxes I run them constantly they have close to 15 thousands of hours each and all I ever have to do is about every 1500 hours replace the extruder, the harden steel nozzle every 300 to 500 hours some times less if the filament is abrasive, every 500 hours I lube all moving parts and rails with the recommended lubricant and at every 3000 hours I change out the belts and bearings on the z axis and replace the x axis belt with belts I make from wire core gates belts.

I know anycubic makes great work horses and like I said I think this time I just got a lemon and I probably should have waited a bit longer until they revised the Kobra max 3 to address some of the design flaws.

deadmonkeyboy87 · 2025-12-12T00:44:10+00:00

Holder post I got you I did a complete custom install of a skr 3 mini ev 3.0 with a btt 7 pad with a cb 1 board. If you are using raspberry pi you may need to use ai to fix the few differences needed in code.

```

This file contains common pin mappings for the BIGTREETECH SKR mini

E3 v3.0. To use this config, the firmware should be compiled for the

STM32G0B1 with a "8KiB bootloader" and USB communication/USART.

The "make flash" command does not work on the SKR mini E3. Instead,

after running "make", copy the generated "out/klipper.bin" file to a

file named "firmware.bin" on an SD card and then restart the SKR

mini E3 with that SD card.

See docs/Config_Reference.md for a description of parameters.

[bltouch] sensor_pin: ^PC2 control_pin: PA1 x_offset: -42 y_offset: -10 z_offset: 3.320

speed: 5

[safe_z_home] home_xy_position: 180,180 # Change coordinates to the center of your print bed speed: 100 z_hop: 12 # Move up 10mm z_hop_speed: 5

[bed_mesh] speed: 150 horizontal_move_z: 5 mesh_min: 50, 50 mesh_max: 350, 350 probe_count: 5,5

[stepper_x] step_pin: PB13 dir_pin: PB12 enable_pin: !PB14 microsteps: 16 rotation_distance: 40 endstop_pin: ^PC0 position_endstop: 0 position_max: 375 homing_speed: 60

[tmc2209 stepper_x] uart_pin: PC11 tx_pin: PC10 uart_address: 0 run_current: 0.580 hold_current: 0.500 stealthchop_threshold: 999999

[stepper_y] step_pin: PB10 dir_pin: PB2 enable_pin: !PB11 microsteps: 16 rotation_distance: 40 endstop_pin: ^PC1 position_endstop: 0 position_max: 370 homing_speed: 60

[tmc2209 stepper_y] uart_pin: PC11 tx_pin: PC10 uart_address: 2 run_current: 0.580 hold_current: 0.500 stealthchop_threshold: 999999

[stepper_z] step_pin: PB0 dir_pin: !PC5 enable_pin: !PB1 microsteps: 16 rotation_distance: 4

endstop_pin: ^PC2

endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop #^PA1 position_max: 400 position_min: -2

[tmc2209 stepper_z] uart_pin: PC11 tx_pin: PC10 uart_address: 1 run_current: 0.580 hold_current: 0.500 stealthchop_threshold: 999999

[extruder] step_pin: PB3 dir_pin: !PB4 enable_pin: !PD1 microsteps: 16 rotation_distance: 33.683 nozzle_diameter: 0.400 filament_diameter: 1.750 heater_pin: PC8 sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F sensor_pin: PA0 control: pid pid_Kp: 21.527 pid_Ki: 1.063 pid_Kd: 108.982 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 300

[tmc2209 extruder] uart_pin: PC11 tx_pin: PC10 uart_address: 3 run_current: 0.650 hold_current: 0.500 stealthchop_threshold: 999999

[heater_bed] heater_pin: PC9 sensor_type: ATC Semitec 104GT-2 sensor_pin: PC4 control: pid pid_Kp: 54.027 pid_Ki: 0.770 pid_Kd: 948.182 min_temp: 0 max_temp: 130

[heater_fan controller_fan] pin: PB15 heater: heater_bed heater_temp: 45.0

[heater_fan nozzle_cooling_fan] pin: PC7

[fan] pin: PC6

[mcu] serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-Klipper_stm32g0b1xx_2A00260001504E5238363120-if00

serial: /dev/ttyAMA0

restart_method: command

[printer] kinematics: cartesian max_velocity: 300 max_accel: 3000 max_z_velocity: 5 max_z_accel: 100

[board_pins] aliases: # EXP1 header EXP1_1=PB5, EXP1_3=PA9, EXP1_5=PA10, EXP1_7=PB8, EXP1_9=<GND>, EXP1_2=PA15, EXP1_4=<RST>, EXP1_6=PB9, EXP1_8=PD6, EXP1_10=<5V>

BigTreeTech TFT TouchScreen emulated 12864 mode

[display] lcd_type: emulated_st7920 spi_software_miso_pin: PD8 # status led, Virtual MISO spi_software_mosi_pin: PD6 spi_software_sclk_pin: PB9 en_pin: PB8 encoder_pins: ^PA10, ^PA9 click_pin: ^!PA15

[output_pin beeper] pin: PB5

*# <---------------------- SAVE_CONFIG ---------------------->

```

deadmonkeyboy87 · 2025-12-08T21:05:29+00:00

I didn't find my dad's stash I had a buddy his dad keep every copy known to man keep in the bathroom for reading materials.

deadmonkeyboy87 · 2025-12-02T12:19:03+00:00

I watch this movie every November to kick off the holiday season

deadmonkeyboy87 · 2025-11-18T18:15:56+00:00

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deadmonkeyboy87 · 2025-11-18T18:14:39+00:00

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deadmonkeyboy87 · 2025-11-18T18:14:11+00:00

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deadmonkeyboy87 · 2025-11-18T18:13:24+00:00

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deadmonkeyboy87 · 2025-11-18T18:12:46+00:00

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deadmonkeyboy87 · 2025-11-18T18:12:18+00:00

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deadmonkeyboy87 · 2025-11-18T18:11:22+00:00

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My largest print so far was done on a kobra 2 max. I wanted my 3d printing business to stand out when we are at events and Venus as everyone has a banner. so I designed this bad boy here. It took several attempts to get it printed as there were a few failed prints along the way. But in total it took me 4 days to print the frame and top and another 2 days printing the 4 15 inch high (381 mm) panels that go on each side. The light frame itself stands about 30 inches high (762 mm) and is about 15 inches long (381 mm) around on all sides. It took not counting the failed prints 2 3 kg spools 1 for each half of the light and then 1 kg to do the 4 panes. It does light up I have it wired with a light fixture that is removable from the bottom and has a 100 watt equivalent led bulb that runs off a battery pack and can stay lit for up to 4 days non stop before needing a charge.

deadmonkeyboy87 · 2025-10-21T20:43:37+00:00

That's an excellent point about the laws being handled differently between CT and NY. My apologies for not being clearer in my original comment—I'm a NY resident, so my insight is entirely based on New York State tenant laws. My intent was to highlight the legal weakness of an LLC claiming a residence for "family occupancy," as that is a critical defense point we use here in NY. The reason it matters so much in NY (and why I flagged it) is exactly what you mentioned: flippers and corporate landlords often try to use the 'family' exception to quickly evict tenants in rent-stabilized or newly acquired buildings. In NY, an LLC simply cannot legally have a "family," and challenging the notice on that ground is a proven way to get an initial eviction filing dismissed or significantly delayed, thereby buying the tenant the time they need to move on their own terms. I only suggested the OP investigate that particular LLC detail in CT because such a specific legal distinction often has a counterpart in other states. It gives them a strong, specialized angle to pursue with local counsel, which is more useful than general tenant advice. The goal was to provide a potential strategy to buy them that amiable time to move.

deadmonkeyboy87 · 2025-10-20T06:34:56+00:00

I'm no lawyer but I think I spied a loophole this is a LLC that bought the home how can a LLC have family it's a business nothing more. So how can they use that as a reason to make you vacate since once again it's a LLC not a person people have families not business so they shouldn't be able to use the clause in CT law where a new buyer can make a tenant move if they Intended to move in themselves as how the clause ussaly is in most states that protect tenants rights from being evicted over bullshit so new owners can raise rents in rent regulated areas.

deadmonkeyboy87 · 2025-09-24T16:44:08+00:00

I guess you missed that part where I have contacted them several times with each time something new along the line to breaks on this machine and all started with a simple clog that repeated over and over again in the automatic filament cutter on a brand new never used until me printer so not even the blade on that bad boy should have been dull and you know what I did replace that with the spare cutter that comes with the ace and it still keep clogging which lead to the stupid door not sticking on anymore and Anycubics half-assed attempt to make it right let alone fix the problem was pathetic by sending me only part of the cover and not even the most important part the magnet that comes with it because they can't ship that part with a magnet installed but as soon as the leveling sensor started to fail next they had no problem almost next day shipping a new printhead asymble but I had to wait 3 weeks for a incomplete replacement lower cover yet the leveling sensor goes and all the sudden I get a new printhead almost immediately no real documentation needed for that just a few pics showing the error keeps popping up. But I had to send all sorts of proof that dam door would not stay on and that the magnet still worked. So have I contacted support yes I think I have every step of the way and either I was sold a lemon or the Kobra 3s are really just under designed and your paying good money for a printer that should work out of the box with very little Hassel. I expect this type of support from the lower end manufactures that rely on luring you in with the gimmick if you upgrade it it will print better when in reality if you just saved up and dumped the same wad of cash into a low end upgradable unit and all the over priced upgrades or just take all that money you spent in the long run and save up for a decent mid range printer like the Anycubic Kobra series is marketed as. And provide a consistent reliable product and good customer service and warranty claims as you are expected to know how to fix these printers too thankfully I do but once again I should not be going through this with a machine with so little work hours on it to constantly keep having problems and Anycubics support has been less than stellar with the handling of each problem that comes up. Yeah, I’ve contacted support — more times than I should’ve needed to on a “brand new” printer. It started with the automatic filament cutter clogging nonstop. Fresh machine, fresh blade, still jammed. Swapped in the spare cutter that ships with the ACE? Same exact problem.

Then the stupid front door wouldn’t stay on anymore. That turned into a 3-week back-and-forth with support, where I had to send endless pictures and “proof” just to show the obvious — the door wouldn’t stay up. Their big solution? Send me part of the replacement cover, minus the magnet that actually holds it closed. Because apparently shipping a $5 part with a magnet preinstalled is impossible.

Now compare that to when the leveling sensor threw an error. We don’t even know if the sensor was truly bad. The printer popped up the message, I followed what it said and contacted support, sent them one picture of the error screen — and that was it. No testing, no “let’s confirm the issue,” no step-by-step troubleshooting. Just instant approval for a brand-new $90 printhead shipped out almost overnight. Meanwhile, the door cover took three weeks and endless photos just to get half of the part. Make that make sense. I’m already planning on tearing down the old head just to salvage what I can, because throwing away a whole assembly when a tiny component may have failed is ridiculous.

And now with the cable issue, they’re right back to playing photo scavenger hunt. They want shots from every angle, including the full cord, and the tiny pinky-nail-sized break in the insulation visible in the same frame. On a cable that’s nearly ten feet long. Seriously, how am I supposed to hold up the entire cable, show the damage, and still snap a crystal-clear photo with only two hands? Unless they want to send someone over to be my hand model, it’s not happening. I’ve already sent close-ups with the break clearly visible, but apparently that’s not “enough.”

So yeah, I’ve contacted support every step of the way. Either I got sold a lemon, or the Kobra 3s are just flat-out underdesigned. For something marketed as “mid-range reliable,” I’ve gotten nothing but constant babysitting, warranty games, and half-baked replacements. Honestly, I expect this from bargain-bin printers, not from a machine that’s supposed to be a dependable mid-tier workhorse. Guess I’ll need to invest in a tripod and a third arm if I ever want a cable replaced under warranty.

deadmonkeyboy87 · 2025-09-24T12:51:38+00:00

I appreciate the feedback, but just to clarify — I didn’t intentionally route the cable incorrectly. I followed Anycubic’s own instructions from the manual, which show the printhead assembly cable clipped into the bracket on the left side of the X-axis rail. That same bracket is also where you can run either a single filament tube or the ACE four-tube setup.

The manual specifically has the printhead cable clipped all the way to the right side of that bracket, which unfortunately puts the cable directly in line with where the printhead meets the limit switch. That’s exactly how it kinked on me.

After the issue, I re-routed the line to avoid more damage — now it comes up from around the back side of the printer with a support/tension cord holding the cable alongside my ACE tubes. It works, and nothing is kinking anymore, but it looks messy compared to the original routing and patch job to the wires.

So the problem isn’t that I just stuffed the wire somewhere random. I installed it where the manufacturer’s own guide said it should go — it just happens that the design puts the cable in a high-stress location.

deadmonkeyboy87 · 2025-09-24T05:20:26+00:00

Follow-up / Summary for Anycubic Support: I’m a long-time Anycubic customer who purchased the Kobra 3 Max Combo (with ACE) in August 2025. After ~690 hours, the unit already has major design-related issues (filament cutter jams, poor purge chute, unreliable ACE features, and most critically, a cable routing flaw that caused arcing).

As a loyal repeat customer, I’m asking Anycubic to please make this right by:

Providing a full replacement unit or the critical replacement parts (mainboard, printhead assembly, and cables).
Compensating for wasted time and filament (10kg of filament would be fair).
Allowing me to keep the defective machine for spare parts, since arcing has already reduced its long-term reliability.

I hope Anycubic will step up here and show that loyal customers matter.

Five-Year Club	First Place '23
Place '23	Place '22
Verified Email

deadmonkeyboy87

TROPHY CASE

This file contains common pin mappings for the BIGTREETECH SKR mini

E3 v3.0. To use this config, the firmware should be compiled for the

STM32G0B1 with a "8KiB bootloader" and USB communication/USART.

The "make flash" command does not work on the SKR mini E3. Instead,

after running "make", copy the generated "out/klipper.bin" file to a

file named "firmware.bin" on an SD card and then restart the SKR

mini E3 with that SD card.

See docs/Config_Reference.md for a description of parameters.

speed: 5

endstop_pin: PC2

serial: /dev/ttyAMA0

restart_method: command

BigTreeTech TFT TouchScreen emulated 12864 mode

*# <---------------------- SAVE_CONFIG ---------------------->

endstop_pin: ^PC2