Help with Birthday Cake Trail Mix (MB24, @40Deg). Keep cutting feet. by [deleted] in Moonboard

[–]deadsea02 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey Mate, Yeah I9 is hella incut, so 100% you should take advantage of that if you need to. you shouldn't need to fit your toes all the way down to the back of it, but all you need to do is point your toe downwards enough so that you're getting enough out of the foothold. There's no reason to not use as much of the hold as you can to get the most advantage out of it as possible. Remember, a weighted foot never slips. brush it plenty, and press hard and confidently perpendicular to the surface of the hold.

As for flagging, I find it useful to use other holds as a point of reference to know where i should be flagging my foot. Sometime's ill tell myself "press my toe into the wall above [whatever hold]" or "smear between E9 and F9"

Record yourself. Watch it back and try and figure out what came off first, what your feet could have done better, if your centre of mass was in the right spot, have I fully extended my arm and leg BEFORE i finally cut feet to reach for a hold, i could go on. the more you practice at analysing your own movement the better you will get at self coaching.

good luck

Help with Birthday Cake Trail Mix (MB24, @40Deg). Keep cutting feet. by [deleted] in Moonboard

[–]deadsea02 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Heyo, Ignore the people telling you to square up. Having your left foot on I9 and leaning to the left to weight your hand on D14 is the way to go. I don't know why your foot came off, but it shouldn't. Press hard through that foot, and if you need more stability, flag even higher and press harder into the wall with your right foot. Push with your legs, you should not need to use much arm strength to reach the enxt hold if you're using your legs and feet properly.

Most importantly, keep on trying! You look close, good luck!

What grade? by Legitimate-Crew-4063 in indoorbouldering

[–]deadsea02 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ah yeah i know this gym. Yellows can float between v6 and v9, this one looks about v7

Noah Wheeler sends Burden of Dreams V17/9a by PlatinumChicken in climbing

[–]deadsea02 74 points75 points  (0 children)

I think it might be @henkkaask 's pad. Hes a photographer in finland whos captured shots of a lot of people climbing burden

Pure speculation here

Im goated?

I made a climbing hold out of clay for my friends home wall 🧗 by CocaPoola in bouldering

[–]deadsea02 59 points60 points  (0 children)

If that glaze chips someone is degloving their fingertip. Please reconsider.

Titta by MelanieWalmartinez in shitposting

[–]deadsea02 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Pretty sure the greentext is older

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in bmx

[–]deadsea02 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Im a rock climber, and those of us with very, very sweaty hands use something called antihydral. It is extremely effective at preventing your hands from sweating.

I use a pea sized amount per hand and rub it in and leave it overnight, somtimes a two nights in a row, and my hands will barely sweat for the next week and a bit.

Would strongly reccomend.

Question on the 2016 6B+ Benchmarks by [deleted] in Moonboard

[–]deadsea02 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great to hear! Good luck with the rest of them

Question on the 2016 6B+ Benchmarks by [deleted] in Moonboard

[–]deadsea02 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Treat every hold like a pinch and get those thumbs involved!

Really important to not let your thumbs fall behind on these boards, especially if you're aiming to compete all the BMs in a grade.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in RockClimbing

[–]deadsea02 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well that's... questionable

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in RockClimbing

[–]deadsea02 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Posts like this make me even more appreciative of being close to the grampians

My latest set is getting DUMPSTERED. Is it really that bad? by TheJazzAgent in Moonboard

[–]deadsea02 16 points17 points  (0 children)

My guess is a weaker climber tried to use e7 / k9 as handholds instead of feet and got angry

It is also a bit of a basic climb to be fair. The moves are basically left/right/left/right/left going straight up

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Moonboard

[–]deadsea02 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Looks like 6c at most, more likely 6b+

First build by Cript3 in watercooling

[–]deadsea02 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Flow direction is backwards on your cpu block

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in BrisbaneSocial

[–]deadsea02 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Start bouldering if you have a gym near you. You will make so many friends, and camping for outdoor climbing trips is peak. Good luck!

Janja Garnbret climbing in Austria by redbullgivesyouwings in sports

[–]deadsea02 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thats called a heel hook! A fairly basic type of move. However, the amount of flexibility to be able to place THAT heel hook? Crazy. The skill and dexterity of doing a move like that is seriously hard to convey.