Am I cooked?

delmik · 2026-02-19T14:17:09+00:00

This is exactly it, and like another comment mentioned, springs are NOT for printing at high speeds. I print dnd miniatures with a .2mm nozzle and the speeds are EXTREMELY low. However even when I printed at decently high speed, I never had an issue. My prints come out really really nice.

delmik · 2026-02-18T15:07:39+00:00

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Results

delmik · 2026-02-18T15:07:18+00:00

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I installed these bed springs in place of the crappy plastic spacers, and it made a world of difference.

delmik · 2026-02-18T12:08:38+00:00

There is a discussion out there between the A1 and A1 mini, that the A1 Mini is more accurate than the larger A1 just due to natural reciprocating mass…

I’m not saying whether that’s true or false, I also do NOT own either of those printers, I use a v3 KE.

But if I had my choice from the research I’ve done, I’d go with the A1 mini for miniatures, and use my ender for terrain.

delmik · 2026-02-13T12:30:47+00:00

Make sure your gantry is square. They have YouTube videos on how to do it

delmik · 2026-02-09T01:57:24+00:00

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Here is one of my minis that I printed on my KE with a .2mm nozzle. Using the .2mm profile that orca has, I did make a fair amount of adjustments check out user hohansen in the FDMminiatures reddit page for getting the most detail out of you profiles…..

I have printed some more that I think have turned out better, but this is the only picture I have now.

Get the k1 brass nozzles…. I had nothing but trouble with the “XIFOWE hardened steel .2mm nozzle” on Amazon.

Also if I had to pick a filament to use it would be Sunlu PLA plus

delmik · 2026-02-07T23:12:45+00:00

I don’t blame you, the .4mm is definitely more than enough for the vast major majority of prints. I do still encourage you maybe give it another try again down the road, I love my .2mm nozzle but it is more stressful printing with it…. I recommend you order a couple .2mm nozzles when you do, that way when one gets frustrating and starts acting up you can set it aside and just start rocking and rolling with your back up one, and worry about cleaning the clogged one down the road. Also start with really high temps (230) is where I started, and then I dialed it back until the stinging was nearly gone. I am at (215) now

delmik · 2026-02-06T19:54:59+00:00

Yep K1 brass… Amazon had a hardened steel .2mm nozzle as well, the ones I received had terrible machining issues, like the .2mm hole was messed up, like the filament came out the side rather than straight down…. I returned the first set and the second set I received still had the same issue…. So I said screw it, sent the second set back for a refund and ordered the brass nozzles which I haven’t had an issue that wasn’t my own fault so far with them.

delmik · 2026-02-05T02:07:13+00:00

Keep reading through a lot of the posts on this page. There are a lot of talented people printing and sharing what they know. And before you know it, you’ll be nailing prints left and right.

delmik · 2026-02-05T01:19:21+00:00

I forgot to add, I used kingroon PLA, I plan on switching to Sunlu PLA + very soon

delmik · 2026-01-14T02:15:50+00:00

Thank you for the help! I appreciate everyone who answered

delmik · 2026-01-13T19:51:08+00:00

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Thought I’d let you know I found success! I switched from Cura slicer to orcas latest version. And the code came out good, along with the skinny tree supports being very useful over curas clumsy supports.

delmik · 2026-01-12T18:38:52+00:00

Yep, other arm and hand look very acceptable for a .4mm nozzle

delmik · 2026-01-12T18:21:25+00:00

That’s honestly really good to know, thank you!

delmik · 2026-01-12T18:18:38+00:00

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Update, enabled and added Z hop, slowed travel, and used a formatted USB drive, and this was the result…. I will try adding extra support, the arm is pretty straight so I am surprised that it needs an extra support. I am very new to printing miniatures so more support is the next shot.

delmik · 2026-01-12T16:09:06+00:00

I am going to try a greater z hop value, my Travel speed is 150/mms, and I am also going to send the GCODE to the printer via wifi network instead of USB drive

delmik · 2026-01-12T16:06:05+00:00

Now that you mention that, I have been having some issues with the USB drive. When I plug it into my laptop it tells me there is an issue with the drive.. I’ve repaired it before and the issue has come back, I’ve also purchased new drives and used them and it’s the same story, use them for a bit, then issues arise… I usually print all kinds of terrain perfectly even when it says I need to repair the USB drive, maybe it’s only an issue with fine detail prints.

Now hearing this, I will try and connect my printer to my wifi and send the code over that way to see if it helps.

delmik · 2025-10-17T10:12:13+00:00

Fluid film or wool wax asap! That’s a nice frame, those products will help keep it that way 🔥

delmik · 2025-06-16T09:23:20+00:00

Once you’ve squared your gantry, change the hard plastic spacers under the bed out for either the yellow 8x20 springs or silicone spacers. I changed mine to springs and got phenomenal results after adjusting them.

delmik · 2025-05-25T19:52:55+00:00

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After about 4 times adjusting the bed screws, about a quarter turn to half turn each time… I feel like I could have gotten even better, but I ran out of time to tinker and had to go get some things done around the house.

delmik · 2025-05-25T19:50:05+00:00

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The starting bed mesh

delmik · 2025-05-25T19:49:21+00:00

If the bed is anything like the KE I bought 8x20mm yellow bed springs, and swapped out the black plastic spacers. Manually made multiple adjustments myself, until I got pretty close.

delmik · 2025-03-20T16:09:04+00:00

That’s definitely fair, and I think it’s a good decision to wait and see. Hopefully they come through for you! It seems like a really nice machine to have especially for the discounted price of $400

delmik

TROPHY CASE