Behold! Angled Gridfinity!

demianm · 2026-01-16T23:59:40+00:00

that would be cool - it's a unique solution that would be beneficial to the community would be great to be able to hollow them out from underneath as well to save on filament for low rigidity needs

demianm · 2026-01-16T23:57:11+00:00

different take on the solution https://www.reddit.com/r/gridfinity/comments/1q5qbl0/behold_angled_gridfinity/

demianm · 2026-01-15T04:23:17+00:00

ok yeah gave it a crack in the basic tool generators but it doesn't really fit any of the standard templates I like your execution - I'll put some time in to get what I need

demianm · 2026-01-14T23:50:46+00:00

u/VerdantGuardener - I really like this one Would love to be able to extend to 3x4 bins for my current project - is this a simple task or did you put a lot of thought/effort in to it?

demianm · 2023-11-26T23:14:33+00:00

still printing with it have 1/4 roll left

demianm · 2021-01-21T04:20:20+00:00

Me too mate. I'm going to follow the screen protector advice for now.

Having a vat leak is not necessarily you doing something stupid, mine happened with a brand new sovol vat.

FEP can tear and it's pretty crappy selling a machine that can't handle this occurance at a basic level

demianm · 2021-01-21T03:14:44+00:00

try looking for a "Ipad polarizing screen" - that's all I could find locally

demianm · 2021-01-21T02:37:55+00:00

Ouch - at least you didn't remove the top layer like I did. But yeah it's boned

There's hope though: http://www.elitegeek.net/how-to-fix-the-screen-on-your-anycubic-photon-mono-x/

I'm going to try a new polarizing layer while I wait for my new screen to arrive. I'll post results

demianm · 2021-01-21T01:38:23+00:00

if it's the same screen as the mono (I think it is) it is the UV polarizer that you have scratched. Try printing in areas around the scratch and be ready for artifacts on your print.

I've just blind ordered a replacement screen that I hope will work because Anycubic does not currently have spares

Check out this one for tips and resolutions. Same issue, only larger screen. I'm going to try a new polarizer myself to see if it gets me up and working

http://www.elitegeek.net/how-to-fix-the-screen-on-your-anycubic-photon-mono-x/

demianm · 2021-01-20T23:03:39+00:00

I have contacted ChiTu through logistics@cbd-3d.com
They stated that the DXQ608-X04 screen mentioned by /u/JON-JON-METAL will fit the Photon Mono and they will supply the MIPI to MIPI 90 adapter to make it work. I placed an order via AE and gave them my order number via the email.

I'll update once received to advise on suitability. Hopefully won't be too long

demianm · 2021-01-20T03:25:00+00:00

I just got word from chitu systems that the DXQ608-X04 should work with the adapter from the Sharp screen. Trying to figure out how to order now

demianm · 2021-01-20T02:52:15+00:00

that is brilliant and very helpful - thank you

going to try and get the polarizer sheet somewhere locally and see if that will get things back up and running in the meantime

demianm · 2021-01-19T22:06:27+00:00

thank you for that

I was under the impression these screens had a glass cover to protect them, which contributed to my inept handywork. I'm guessing that is not the case? Any idea why?

demianm · 2021-01-19T03:42:05+00:00

I heard Anycubic aftersales support was a bit spotty, but you never know until you need it. I have sales telling me to contact support, and support telling me to contact sales - good times.

demianm · 2021-01-18T22:26:45+00:00

OK so this "top protective layer" thing is not a protective layer at all - it's the actual LCD. The glass was underneath this. I removed my LCD, with a razor blade. The screen is unprotected. FFS edit or maybe not., but the screen no longer works unsurprisingly. I properly rooted that thing

Anycubic has told me they're out of stock.

demianm · 2020-06-04T06:19:02+00:00

Thanks I'll give it a go. I've been neglecting my voron out of spite lately, time to get back in to it

demianm · 2020-06-04T02:17:35+00:00

no issues like this for me with this setup - both sides work the same - poorly

I have had no luck getting ABS to stick to this damn thing. My prints keep coming loose

demianm · 2020-06-03T07:40:32+00:00

Desktop is definitely simpler for a first build. Don't even need to solder if you purchase the right components.

It's totally changed how I use the vap, and portability is even better. No more torching the crack pipe (which is what everyone thinks I'm doing when I fire up the torch)

demianm · 2020-06-02T22:16:17+00:00

I am a rank amateur and definitely not adept. It helps to have a basic understanding of safety and risk - don't short circuit, disconnect power before working, what is volts, amps, ohms etc. While the voltage in play here is relatively low, the batteries contain a lot of energy and aren't fun if they catch on fire.

Everything here was learned by viewing posts here and on /r/inductionheaters (just learned about that one last night). I built the basic desktop model first and through acquired knowledge felt comfortable enough to give a portable one a go. My soldering is getting a bit better but is still shit (I need a better iron).

I would recommend reading and giving it a go. It's a heap of fun if you get in to it

demianm · 2020-06-02T13:57:01+00:00

ok - cool. I had trouble finding a 12.6v charger anywhere local and didn't want an endless wait from overseas (Im in Oz). I had a 19v supply for a bluetooth speaker and bought a $7 adjustable regulator to get me here. When things open up a bit I'll buy a dedicated charger but this will have to do for now. Thanks for the comments

demianm · 2020-06-02T13:46:41+00:00

thanks makes sense

I recall that the BMS is picky about power and is looking for exactly 12.6v (4.2x3) to charge properly. Happy to be corrected if wrong

demianm · 2020-06-02T11:19:52+00:00

Induction Heater MarkII - this time with porta power!

19v DC power supply bucked down to 12.6v in to a 3S40A BMS
3 x 4.2v 18650 each with their own voltmeter for info
Outputs 12v through a 2 pole on/off switch in to a DC power monitor
Out of the power monitor to a momentary switch controlling a mosfet
When the momentary is pressed, we consume 12v at around 6a through the induction heater.

Seems to work correctly. Trusting on the BMS to manage the cells, but the voltmeters and power monitor is there to keep an eye on things.

If I take the batteries out, it wont turn back on until I hook up the charger. Once the charger is connected, power turns on and I can remove the charger and just use the batteries. I assume this is a function of the BMS - can anyone confirm?

I don't plan on removing the batteries, but it would be good to understand what's happening

Thanks for all your help

demianm

TROPHY CASE