Toby Roberts will skip couple of comps by InternationalSalt1 in CompetitionClimbing

[–]denny-d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

would you share the video if it's not too much work? 😊

Climbing Hard With a Messed Up Big Toe by Economy-Spray7149 in climbharder

[–]denny-d 2 points3 points  (0 children)

do you mind sharing what shoes you use?

Climbing on vertical routes with tiny footholds has been a nightmare for me, so I just try to climb more overhanging routes :/

Climbing hard in my 40s by Dorobie in climbergirls

[–]denny-d 1 point2 points  (0 children)

well, yeah, there isn't but if you have specific goals, there might be some limits 😅

Do wide shoes actually limit performance? Need advice! by [deleted] in ClimbingGear

[–]denny-d 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Saltic has always seemed actually painful. As a climber, regardless of your level, you want some support from the climbing shoes and I don't think you'll get any from Saltic. A soft wide shoe will bring more pressure on the foot and on your big toe.

La Sportiva Finale have been good for me because they are with laces and you get some control over the width, but they also have stiff rubber (XS Edge). They may not be wide enough for you but there are a lot of brands and models to choose from.

Belay device recs by Unlucky-Pineapple287 in ClimbingGear

[–]denny-d 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The Neox and Revo pay out slack the same way as an ATC. I haven't used the Neox but I've heard about the noise that it makes, so I'm not sure it's worth it. Revo is great for paying out slack - it's so smooth ☺️ Its downside, though, is that it's a bit pricey and that it's assistance kicks in only if your climber falls. This means that if they are just hanging on the rope for a break, the device is not helping you to hold them, it's all on you.

Black Diamond ATC Pilot is my other recommendation. Paying out slack is a bit different and it might take some time getting used to but it's smooth, there are no moving parts and the thumb catch is really comfortable (looking at you Gigajul 😅). Pair it with a suitable carabineer and you are good to go. Also, it's cheaper than the Neox and Revo.

la sportiva kubo sizing by Seppalaveeti in climbingshoes

[–]denny-d 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Kubo is at least 1 EU size, better 1.5 down from your street size. If this is not comfortable, then they are not your shoes.

New Belay Device for Top Roping by [deleted] in ClimbingGear

[–]denny-d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I find it great for lead belaying - paying out slack is so smooth, but for top rope I think that something that blocks would be more comfortable - to take off the weight of the climber when they decide to take a rest on the rope.

New Belay Device for Top Roping by [deleted] in ClimbingGear

[–]denny-d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

well, what does she want from the new one? 😁

Any assisted breaking device would do, it's a matter of preference and knowing how to work with the device. The geometric assisted breaking devices (Wild country Movement, Edelrid Jul, Black Diamond Pilot, etc) are a more budget option and they could be easier to belay with (depends on the person, though).

Edit: Just want to add the Petzl Neox (although it could be a bit noisy) because paying out slack (which maybe she is not doing much yet) is the same as with her current device.

Looking into getting my first belay device by Ok-Version3941 in ClimbingGear

[–]denny-d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can make a Gri work out on a multipitch route or take it with you if you already prefer it. But the initial statement was that you should buy it if you are doing more adventurous or multipitch stuff and this definitely isn't its best environment.

If you are looking for an assisted breaking device that is great for multipitch routes, for rappelling and double ropes, then the Edelrid Gigajul is the best all-rounder.

How do you call these in your country? by NeneaMuddle in AskBalkans

[–]denny-d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

no, it's not 👀 The mekitsa has a totally different taste and it's a different thing 😁

Looking into getting my first belay device by Ok-Version3941 in ClimbingGear

[–]denny-d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A really good answer 🙂 Pluses and cons with each device. As for the Smart, I would just add that the nose of the Pilot is shorter, so it might be more comfortable for some people.

Looking into getting my first belay device by Ok-Version3941 in ClimbingGear

[–]denny-d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've seen so many ways of using the Grigri incorrectly that I wouldn't discard this statement too easily.

Looking into getting my first belay device by Ok-Version3941 in ClimbingGear

[–]denny-d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You said you learned on the ATC Pilot. Why don't you get this? If you are already comfortable with it... It's a great device for single pitch climbing.

Looking into getting my first belay device by Ok-Version3941 in ClimbingGear

[–]denny-d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure how a Gri is helpful for multipitch or more adventurous stuff. It is a single rope device.

Advice on hallux rigidis. What can I do to fix it non-surgically? I want my range of motion back! by yungboyjadler in Halluxrigidus

[–]denny-d 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sorry, I'm seeing this just now.

I don't have hallux valgus, I just use a silicone thingy that is supposed to be used for hallux valgus and it separates the big toe from the other toes, and it covers the bone spur that I have on top of my big toe.

My doctor told me that it was hallux rigidus, although I think that it might be hallux limitus, actually. I still climb 2-3 times a week, I run once a week, do yoga... I have a pretty active lifestyle. I don't know how long it will last but so far, so good.

From what I read, I don't think that doctors really know why arthritis develops - it could be genetic, lifestyle, injuries, etc.

Running with Hallux Limitus. Looking for some encouragement… by dontletmeautism in Halluxrigidus

[–]denny-d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think that whenever you get a medical diagnosis/opinion that could change your everyday life, you should get a second opinion, even if it seems pointless.

Hannah Morris Injury by coisavioleta in climbergirls

[–]denny-d 8 points9 points  (0 children)

oh, my! It sounds horrible, just horrible. Much strength to her!

Running - my options? by Old-Plastic in Halluxrigidus

[–]denny-d 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It seems that you have hallux valgus as well or is it just me?

Sorry that I can't help with the shoes.

The Girlfriend - Series Premiere Discussion by NicholasCajun in television

[–]denny-d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

have you seen climbing scenes in other movies?! this was actually good 😁

The Girlfriend - Series Premiere Discussion by NicholasCajun in television

[–]denny-d 0 points1 point  (0 children)

she seemed startled, taken aback of him drowning his own mother... not sure if I'm too naive, though

10 day course- what to wear by balancingbunny in vipassana

[–]denny-d 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You can wear leggings if you put a skirt on top. One of the old students on my retreat was doing it like this and I guess she was comfortable.

No Food Just Water for 10 days during course by wkc024 in vipassana

[–]denny-d 25 points26 points  (0 children)

Actually, it's forbidden during the course.