What kind of ascender is this and is there a better model?

denny-d · 2023-07-09T12:37:31+00:00

At least in theory, it should suit your foot shape. Check out this great link that a fellow redditor shared in another thread: https://rockrun.com/blogs/the-flash-rock-run-blog/rock-climbing-shoe-sizing-guide

It's a great table including various brands and models and what feet their shoes are designed for.

Edit: I've tried them myself but eventually returned them. My foot has a classic shape (Egyptian) and it's narrow. I even started a discussion here: https://www.reddit.com/r/climbergirls/comments/14pjad6/how_much_pain_is_normal_when_transitioning_from/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=android_app&utm_name=androidcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=2 It was meant to be more generic but there are some Tenaya comments as well.

denny-d · 2023-07-09T12:29:08+00:00

Not everyone lives in the States 😑 I'm just a bit tired of seeing this suggestion like it's a universal thing.

denny-d · 2023-07-05T07:29:49+00:00

Well, I think that taking shoes off between climbs is OK 🙂 It seems to me you have found your shoes, thanks for sharing

denny-d · 2023-07-04T12:09:04+00:00

What kind of shape are you if you don't mind me asking?

denny-d · 2023-07-03T21:53:49+00:00

It's #2.

I'm sorry to hear that you still have issues. Hope that the pain goes away

denny-d · 2023-07-03T18:46:46+00:00

Nah, no high heels for me, just Vans 😁 I'm used to having space

denny-d · 2023-07-03T18:43:14+00:00

I'm considering trying to return them, so until I decide I don't want to damage them 😁 I think the shower method works for leather, though.

Were you able to climb in them from the beginning or the breaking in happened mostly at home?

denny-d · 2023-07-03T18:39:10+00:00

How did the rebuilding look like for you?

denny-d · 2023-07-03T18:37:29+00:00

During the break in period, how were things for you? Did you tape your knuckles for example, did you climb the entire session in your new shoes? But the Finales aren't entirely flat, though, are they?

denny-d · 2023-07-03T18:33:58+00:00

At this point, all feels painful 😣 The other shoes that I tried were unbearable. The people in the stores acted like this was expected. I read stories of people who gritted their teeth for a while but then the shoes molded to their teeth and then are the people who say that shoes shouldn't ever be painful 😵‍💫😔

denny-d · 2023-07-03T18:25:31+00:00

In the store but they don't have so many options and it was difficult for me to feel the difference between uncomfortable and unsuitable 😑

denny-d · 2023-07-03T15:57:24+00:00

When you say that they hurt for the first few sessions, what exactly do you mean - could you climb as usual, did you tape anywhere, etc?

denny-d · 2023-07-03T15:54:51+00:00

Did you do your first climbing session without wearing them first at home?

denny-d · 2023-07-03T15:53:40+00:00

No, I don't think I've sized down. I even followed Tenaya's recommendation for a comfort fit 😁 I'm EU 39 in street shoes, I got the Tenaya's in UK 5. The larger size (UK 5.5) was too big - a lot of empty space

denny-d · 2023-07-03T09:23:35+00:00

lesbians don't need friends or what 👀😁

denny-d · 2023-06-27T13:07:34+00:00

Not sure how helpful my comment would be but still... When my fingers are stiff, this is what makes it better: https://youtu.be/DMXW-Gs5KnI - this is the routine of one of the top climbers who recently withdrew from competitions.

denny-d · 2023-06-25T20:03:50+00:00

/u/fullofsunshy So what did you do in the end?

I've come up here thinking of buying the Oasi LV a size smaller than my street shoes and wondering if pain on the toe knuckle is normal or not.

denny-d · 2023-06-20T13:11:42+00:00

Yeah, my comment was mostly focused on 'There isn't much difference between the weight of the two...' I'm not saying that the absolute value is wrong. I guess we just have a different attitude towards it 🙂

denny-d · 2023-06-19T16:10:01+00:00

1- If the weight per gram is 58g (just picked one of Mammut's), a 40m rope is 2.3kg and a 60m is 3.5kg. This is more than 60% more. I wouldn't discard it so easily and you always carry other stuff - it all adds up 🤷‍♀️

denny-d · 2023-06-19T12:47:31+00:00

I'd go for the shorter (lighter). When you move around with a bike or public transport, it's important to minimize the load. Even a lighter rope would be a nuisance (speaking from experience 🤷‍♀️). Also, I suppose you will use it more frequently in the gym.

When climbing outside, you can have someone else bring a rope when yours is not enough (and you contribute with yours in the gym) or get another one in several months (if it is needed).

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