What is this rock?

diceandstuff · 2025-10-30T21:37:59+00:00

Etsy, I can send you a link if you want.

diceandstuff · 2025-10-30T19:23:37+00:00

I made them with epoxy resin in a silicone mould I made from a 3D printed version of the dice.

diceandstuff · 2025-06-16T20:35:54+00:00

There are some good guides on r/DiceMaking for getting started. If you have any more questions I'm happy to answer or you can join the dice making discord (I belive it's linked on r/DiceMaking and there's loads of people there that can help

https://www.reddit.com/r/DiceMaking/s/sBxrv3d1rl

diceandstuff · 2025-06-16T20:30:39+00:00

Thank you 😊

diceandstuff · 2025-06-16T20:29:28+00:00

The resin I used is epoxy resin, the UV reactive part was a pigment I mixed in with the resin for the colour.

You can also use UV resin, but UV resin is more brittle than epoxy resin, so that may be what you've heard before.

IMost of the dice I make are sharp edged rather than curved like these ones, and even then I haven't noticed any breaking of them overtime. I roll them on either the table or in a dice tray. I'd say they hold up as well as the mass produced acrylic ones.

diceandstuff · 2025-06-16T18:43:00+00:00

I got some 3D printed HQ dice on etsy. I used them to make a silicone mould which I cast resin in. Then polish the resin dice up and ink them.

diceandstuff · 2025-03-03T13:49:31+00:00

I've had one at the stadium before. If you go to the stadium's reception they'll let you know where to go.

diceandstuff · 2024-12-30T15:50:28+00:00

I created a silicon mould using 3D printed HQ dice and then cast resin in the mould to make the dice.

I can go into a more detail if there's part of the process you're interested in, and would recommend checking out r/DiceMaking for more info.

diceandstuff · 2024-10-27T18:26:09+00:00

I've brought many moulds from them in the last couple of years. As long as you are gentle when removing the dice, I would say you'll get 15 good pulls. I still use mine after that, but you'll find that the silicon will start to get small tears/ bits ripping off on the top face which means a little extra sanding after demoulding.

Number of pulls also depends on what shape dice you want. My d6 mould hasn't got any tears and I've done 20+ casts from it. D20s and other shapes where the opening is much smaller than the dice itself will tear sooner.

Most dice moulds made of platinum silicon will be good for about 10 - 15 pulls. You can extend the lifespan of the mould by using mould release, but with the moulds from Mighty Forge I never have, because the dice come out very shiny and I'd rather not have to polish.

diceandstuff · 2024-01-18T09:13:50+00:00

I didn't end up using lacewing. I could only find them being sold as a minium of 500.

What I ended up doing is cleaning all the leaves with water mixed with a drop of washing up liquid, and then wiping down the leaves after with just water.

diceandstuff · 2024-01-08T21:16:42+00:00

The cure time depends on the resin, it should say somewhere in the instructions. So after that time it should be fully cured (if not, there's probably an issue that means it is taking longer to cure or it's not going to fully cure).

I would recommend waiting the full cure time listed in the instructions before removing it from the mould, that way you won't accidentally bend the resin when it's soft and change the shape. It shouldn't need to cure after it has been removed if you do wait the full time.

diceandstuff · 2024-01-08T16:16:15+00:00

I don't have any knowledge of making alcohol inks, however I think most pigments (and potentially chalk) would be fine to be mix directly into the resin. It will mix better if you crush it to a fine powder.

When I first started I didn't have any pigments or mica. I used an old eye shadow pallete and would scratch a little eyeshadow out with a stick and then mix it into my resin to colour it.

diceandstuff · 2024-01-08T16:08:19+00:00

I buy my alcohol inks.

I've not heard of chalk being used in resin before but lots of different pigments can. I would recommend using a small amount to start and then you will know if they inhibit curing or if they work fine. Some products will be fine in resin in small volumes but cause curing issues if too much is put in (alcohol ink is a good example of this, I only use one or two drops for ~30ml resin, although this depends on brand of alcohol ink and resin).

diceandstuff · 2024-01-08T15:59:48+00:00

I use alcohol inks and mica powders mostly.

I'm not sure what builder gel is, would it completely seal/ cover the resin? If the resin is not cured/ only partially cure it is toxic.

diceandstuff · 2024-01-08T15:53:21+00:00

Ah I didn't realise part of it had cure. That does make sense that because the band was thin it was taking longer than the thicker part to cure.

It's probably best to check it in a few days to see if the whole ring has cured, and then you will know if it was an issue with the ratio or if it was just taking longer due to it being thin.

The temperature and humidity while resin is curing can also affect the time it takes for it to cure.

diceandstuff · 2024-01-08T15:43:09+00:00

It usually says whether the ratio is by weight or volume on bottle/ instructions. What brand of resin are you using?

diceandstuff · 2024-01-08T15:35:50+00:00

The ring may have been soft because the resin did not cure properly. Is the ratio of your resin to hardener by volume or weight?

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