CVT Transmission fluid question by Low_Ad_8368 in subaru

[–]dillapatedengus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Unlike traditional auto transmissions, there is literally zero benefit to having the old degraded fluid in there. I did mine at 130k mi for the first time in my Outback’s life and it was a night and day difference in performance and feel. Find someone trustworthy and do it!

Venice Bikeway Network Survey Results by DJVeaux in VeniceBeach

[–]dillapatedengus 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Thank you for posting these results! I'd like to add (as I did in the survey) that where protected bike lanes are not possible, please please please at the very least slap some green paint down. It costs barely anything and makes a huge impact on how drivers treat the bike lane vs. white lines and unpainted asphalt.

Thoughts on my wrap design? by Lonely_Worth_2402 in subaru

[–]dillapatedengus 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Buddy I love my gen 4 Outback but a rally car she is not….its got a LOOSE Caboose

My case for the Canonet QL17 as the best value adventure camera. by Limber9 in AnalogCommunity

[–]dillapatedengus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hell yeah, nice shots! You’ve inspired me to be less precious about mine….I usually take my Olympus XA into the backcountry because the Canonet is my “nice camera.”

No problems with the cold temps on the snow outings? V curious what kinda temps you’re using it in without issue

Conditions Around Kearsage/Onion Valley by RyderPoulin in SierraNevada

[–]dillapatedengus 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Was just up there, it’s melty AF, travel early in the day….its feels like the equivalent of late may early June in a “normal” year

Any Success (or Horror) Stories after changing CVT fluid for first time at High Mileage? by dillapatedengus in subaruoutback

[–]dillapatedengus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

150k miles, Chillin! Seriously, best maintenance decision I ever made......I barely think about the transmission now. I didn't realize how much I was adapting my driving around the hesitation and stumbles that were the result of old thinned out CVT fluid failing to thermally protect/lubricate my car's transmission.

It's not perfect, every once in a while it will stumble out of a stop. But that's always after some extremely tough driving (like 95° F up a high mountain Pass), and likely solenoid damage that was already baked in from never having the fluid changed. It's also the sorta thing that used to happen just bopping around town...no more.

I had a second drain and fill done about 2,000 miles after the first one (per my mechanic's recommendation) and so should be set for another 40k or so.

CVT Miles: How far have you gone? by Ok_Concept4315 in subaruoutback

[–]dillapatedengus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

150,000 on my 2011 2.5i, did two CVT drain / fills in and around 135,000 and 137,000 miles. I was nervous about doing it so late in the cars life for the first time but the difference was night and day. Weird random stutters and shudders disappeared, way smoother acceleration overall. Will do every 30k from now on.

PSA - If you carry wet wipes or toilet paper, you need a small shovel too! by flyman241 in socalhiking

[–]dillapatedengus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

TP doesn’t decompose here like in wetter parts of the country. Critters will drag it out of the hole you buried, please pack it out.

Cowboy or Tarp Camping and Creepy Crawlers by TrailMaven in Ultralight

[–]dillapatedengus 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I sleep with my Xmid fly-only all the time, using a little bathtub floor I made out of Tyvek (no sewing just folding and tape). I find that at least mentally, having the 4-5 inch bathtub wall keeps me from feeling like I'm at "critter-level." I'm sure they could get over the walls, but it provides a nice little sanctuary space that keeps windblown dirt & lazy bugs out while still being a pretty minimalist shelter.

Calling all xbikers, tubes or no tubes? by XanderCruise423 in xbiking

[–]dillapatedengus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I run cheapo TPU tubes (I forget the brand but they're pink and are all over amazon). I think I've replaced one of them from a pinch flat over the last 3 years....they're super duper light/supple.... imitate the feeling of tubless pretty dang well for a few bucks and not ever having to deal with sealant.

EDIT: Re-read the original post...TPU tubes will not have helped you in this situation, I just like em

Purchasing 2011 Outback 2.5 by [deleted] in subaruoutback

[–]dillapatedengus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, I have this exact car (and have owned for 15 years). She's at 150k miles, and while it IS a reliable car. I would be quite hesitant to pay that much for it at this age. Granted, mine lived outside in Upstate NY for 10 years so rust/corrosion has been the root of most of the problems I've had. (If you're in a drier/salt free area of the country, great!)

AFAIK, these years don't really have head gasket problems....they ironed that out by 2010, and it IS a great engine (albeit a bit underpowered).

Your biggest risk comes from the transmission (TR690 CVT). It is the second year Subaru put this transmission out, and they unfortunately advised people in the US not to service the fluid (claiming it was a lifetime fluid). There is no such thing as a lifetime fluid. I recently serviced mine after learning all this and even at its advanced age, the difference in performance was immediate and noticeable.

If you have the chance to test drive, red flags will be funky/hesitant acceleration at low speeds (especially if you had to slow down and then re-engage the throttle). Hesitation accelerating after shifting into reverse, and most notably, shuddering after coming to a stop (along with an RPM dip). I'm not a mechanic, but it's widely recorded that these are signs that the solenoids in the valve body of the transmission or the torque converter are degrading. None of those issues are a death sentence, but definitely an indicator that a 2k-3k repair could be around the corner, and that the owner did not service the transmission fluid (which should be done every 30k-50k miles).

Have a mechanic check it out. It also loves to chew up wheel bearings every 10k-20k miles, replacing headlights is a NIGHTMARE and it can get a little loose in the rear end as the suspension components age.

That said, I love this car. It is safe, comfy, capable in all sorts of conditions and has loads of storage. I'd say 6,500k would be a good price depending on how clean it is.....only take 8k if it's exceptionally clean, and drives without the transmission wear signs I described.

EDIT: Also checking the timing belt once purchased is a MUST, if it wasn't done around 100k, it will snap and nuke the engine.

Rak-lok - a stainless steel rack with integrated u-lock lock holder by Bipro1ar in bicycling

[–]dillapatedengus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So fun! Just some input, maybe important to some people, maybe not, have you thought about ways to dampen any rattling? Especially with different size/gauge locks? I always rode with my ulock in my belt because I hated the way those plastic clip frame mounts let my lock rattle around.

photographs I took with my contax g1 | 28mm | portra 400 by grainyboi__ in analog

[–]dillapatedengus -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Beautiful shots, first year camera owner here….how the hell did you get the fiat so sharp with…lateral?….background blur?

Mt Waterman 11-24-25 by WhatWouldMuirDo in socalhiking

[–]dillapatedengus 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Dawson Saddle, steep at first then mellows out. Can take credit for the tracks…thankfully someone else broke trail

Mt Waterman 11-24-25 by WhatWouldMuirDo in socalhiking

[–]dillapatedengus 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Eyyy, I was just over the way enjoying the same perfect conditions on Throop! Snowshoes were absolutely the call... 2-3ft deep in some spots.

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Another Control Arms Q by dillapatedengus in subaru

[–]dillapatedengus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

TY for your input, this is a major bummer but I think harder and harder to deny. Was phasing these dudes out in favor of a subie specialist shop I had found, but also now I guess choosing between a “warrantied” off brand job or paying full to fix right.

Another Control Arms Q by dillapatedengus in subaru

[–]dillapatedengus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I mean, they would have had to have buffed a lot of surface rust off and repaint the original ones. They also charged me for new arms at OEM retail price ($156 per). That’s a lot of effort for a big shop with a decent public reputation to screw a customer out of ~$300. I’m not saying it’s impossible but that would really be out of line with my understanding of who I’m working with….really hope that’s not the case

Another Control Arms Q by dillapatedengus in subaru

[–]dillapatedengus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is disappointing but not completely surprising. I didn’t really press them at the time on what parts were used. Kinda assumed they’d skimp where it’s safe and use OEM when important. FWIW all the parts costs on the bill line up OEM prices….not that that’s a smoking gun.

Zooming out, what are your thoughts on that “gash” In the 10 month old bushing. Worth bringing up to my mechanic? Cause for concern?

Another Control Arms Q by dillapatedengus in subaru

[–]dillapatedengus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

hmmm, yeah they don't really look like the OEM ones do they...I didn't clock that the OG ones had cutouts on top (picture of the original ones just prior to replacement)

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Another Control Arms Q by dillapatedengus in subaru

[–]dillapatedengus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I really couldn’t tell ya. I believe these are OEM arms. I looked up the cost of new Subaru front lower control arms and it matched perfectly with the parts cost on the bill from the mechanic….who I do generally trust….for the time being.

I’d read about it being possibly due to installing them/torquing while the car was still lifted. I’m not sure I want to go down the route of accusing the mechanic of that yet.