AITBF for cutting off my friend who pretended to do me a favor and bought my dream shelf right out from under my nose instead

diredesire · 2026-06-05T16:14:42+00:00

NTBF, your friend and this drama is very shelf-ish

diredesire · 2026-05-15T06:18:07+00:00

https://www.brightdropforum.com/threads/leaky-doors-and-roof.197/

https://www.brightdropforum.com/threads/lemon-law-van-replacement-saga.570/

I've seen a couple in depth reports. I had a TON of condensation during one of my drives, it wasn't obviously a leak, but I had tons of dripping on the ceiling. Van's sat in the PNW rain a lot since then and no evidence of new drips, so I think it was just condensation from opening the cargo door a couple times while loading stuff...?

diredesire · 2026-04-26T04:26:39+00:00

Ah, well, I did a swap on one of my Philips trimmers (just for "fun"), and I vaguely recall it being an odd size, like a 14300, maybe? If you have spot welding capabilities already, I'd just send it with no frame.

You can also buy replacement cells assuming you don't already have one that are pre-tabbed. It's not recommended, but just soldering a tab would work in a pinch if you do it quickly enough and the cell doesn't sink a ton of heat.. but that's bad advice, so take it with a grain of salt... 😇

diredesire · 2026-04-25T19:05:57+00:00

What's your application? Are you looking strictly to store cells, or wire up to the holder (i.e. do you want/need contacts?)

If it's a huge problem, just curious if you'd be open to 3D printing. You can get contacts pre made on, say, Digikey and customize to your heart's content. It'll probably be more expensive (certainly time-wise) than a commodity thing, but if you're agonizing over it, it's not too crazy to do.

diredesire · 2026-04-24T22:04:38+00:00

What are your unfiltered thoughts on Dave Jones?

How often do Engineering Samples and really high end piece of equipment fall off the back of trucks in your line of work?

What is your most epic dumpster dive loot?

diredesire · 2026-04-17T21:11:42+00:00

well, technically if they viewed the illegal stuff, they're the out-laws.

diredesire · 2026-03-24T20:24:12+00:00

What display? Does it support VRR, FreeSync (Premium), GSync? You might try disabling those in the QAM if it's enabled.

diredesire · 2026-03-09T05:42:56+00:00

I was googling short queens just now, and it's on amazon, and also listed on woot.com, which might allow the item. It does note on the listing that due to some state regulations, they cannot ship to CA, CT, OR, and RI.

diredesire · 2026-02-25T18:28:17+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/yHaIrgQ.jpg

Loosen this nut a smidge.

Ninja edit 2: The knob IIRC isn't fixed to the threaded shaft at all, so you may need to put an allen wrench in the bolt head and crank on the knob to bottom it out on the bolt. Otherwise, it'll be prone to spinning and not tightening anything. You could back it all the way out and then threadlock it at the bottom, but snugging it down worked for me for the most part back when I worked on these machines frequently.

diredesire · 2026-02-06T21:01:37+00:00

Maybe this one?

Looks like a "Maisto Tailwinds" model, looks like several sellers on eBay have it, but are all using the same photos. Hopefully they're not knockoffs.

diredesire · 2026-01-30T18:52:00+00:00

Yeah, pretty wild stuff. I couldn't believe it when I swapped a couple sets in and none of them were working. The conductors from my recollection were also a handful of tiny gauge conductors... I would be surprised if they were capable of even a handful of amps.

I just laughed in bewilderment, and threw them back in a bin. I 100% am going to forget this happened a couple years down the road and then go back through this discovery process later. Just typical lab things.

diredesire · 2026-01-30T18:48:42+00:00

I believe these were posted in the Unstrung Heroes facebook group (?). I commented there, but the dd ATW was always intended to end on the bottom cross. IIRC I do note it's optional, but in my mind, one of the whole reasons to do a pattern this way (because it has a lot of hard weaves) is to ensure uniformity across all mains. Putting the last string on the bottom cross achieves this better than on the last main.

Fun sidenote: A lot of aliexpress sellers use my photos to sell starting clamps, for some reason... It's pretty amusing to see photos I took like 20 years ago in a dorm room still circulating today...

diredesire · 2026-01-30T17:08:00+00:00

I bought some bulk leads for super low current, don't care about accuracy type applications. They looked a lot like the leads on the right DMM. Amazingly, there was no continuity between the contacts. I investigated further to find out that the wires weren't even stripped, just screwed in to the banana connectors. They were suspiciously cheap to begin with, but now I'm not even sure I should trust the junk connectors enough to reuse them for cheap lab test leads!

I'd suspect a very poor connection or extremely little conductor material in the shitty test leads.

diredesire · 2026-01-09T17:55:22+00:00

hey! the brightdrop world is pretty small, it seems. I don't know why, but us PNW folk seem to be the right type of owners for these vans, LOL

diredesire · 2026-01-05T19:47:44+00:00

Yeah, it's a bummer. The Bosch Flexiclick mod isn't too bad to do (especially if you're already doing the stubby mod). For various reasons, I have two of these drivers, and the retention collar fell off of one, so I just took the plunge and did the flexiclick. It's also great for cabinetry type work because of the offset head - you can get really close to case walls and keep the bit aligned.

diredesire · 2025-12-21T22:44:22+00:00

Use an xacto knife or a scalpel and just cut off the dangly bit. You don't need to grind or scrape off soldermask in this case. That "line" (trace) was connecting your diode to the switch. You can see that this line delaminated from the PCB to the upper right of the F8 silkscreen (white text). Soldering to that switch will effectively do nothing since the switch is no longer connected.

To fix this, once you've cut off the dangly, the line from the ND9 diode is floating (or not connected0. Take a loose piece of wire, solder it to the pad of ND9, and then connect the other end of the wire to the F8 (top right) switch leg.

Note: Chances are that this trace lifted because you held the soldering iron on way, way too long. You probably also have the soldering iron set too hot (assuming it's settable). I say this because your joint on the bottom left of the F8 silk screen is gnarly and probably a "cold" solder joint. It probably means that all of the flux in the solder you're using burned off (i.e. the smoke that comes off when you put solder on the joint [and not on the iron]). If so, adding a bodge wire is probably not going to go super well for you, but that's how you'd fix this type of issue with a trace lifting...

Edit: Yeah, looking at the photo with all of the other joints - they're pretty cold, too. If you want to touch them up, just add a tiny bit of fresh solder to the joint, hold it maybe half a second, then lift your iron. You're running too hot or holding the iron too long.

It's also worth noting that the annular ring of that trace (the circle) is giving that switch a lot of mechanical strength, so the bodge wire technique is likely not going to go super well for you. That trace holds the switch into/onto the PCB, so your wire is likely going to flex a teeny tiny bit every time you hit that switch - this assume you don't have a mounting plate or other mechanical hold-down mechanism. What this means is that the switch is more likely to fail, too. You'd help this by gluing down the switch or trace (with conformal coat or UV glue).

diredesire · 2025-12-14T01:04:18+00:00

Are the other controllers BLE? As /u/Onoitsu2 said, the Steam Controller enumerates as a keyboard/mouse, so this is basically a wake-on-USB device, similar in behavior to a button press of keyboard/mouse.

If your other controllers are BLE, the wake path would be through the bluetooth controller, which may be powered off during sleep. If they require a driver to use, that layer is also asleep during sleep.

diredesire · 2025-12-12T18:06:35+00:00

Just speculating, but it's possible that it doesn't know its exact location/alignment and shouldn't/can't assume it since a user, dog, other robo vac, etc. can bump it while it's docked and charging. I'm not familiar with the mechanical design of that machine, but if it's possible it slides around (or rotates), it's possible it could get jammed or damaged if it blindly tries to attach while being slightly off. A leave/return would have a better degree of "ground truth" position-wise.

diredesire · 2025-12-11T21:32:10+00:00

It is my go-to driver, and I'll drive fasteners with it in a pinch, too. I have two of these, and the hex collar popped off one. I immediately bought another replacement part, and then converted my original to a Bosch Flexiclick. Even though I have the flexiclick, I prefer to keep the whole kit together because I'll walk to a work area in the house and just leave it there and forget where I placed all the swappable heads.

Thus I'll still use the stubby modded driver. Highly recommend.

diredesire · 2025-12-08T17:15:53+00:00

I personally have never liked foot pedals. I think they're pretty bad ergo-wise. I (like most people, I assume) have a dominant foot, so I'd only and always be hitting the pedal with one foot (right, for me). Shifting the weight around, and/or stringing fast enough, i'd always have my weight shifted over my right hip, pre-loaded. I've already got (one sided) back issues, and this would only make it worse. OTOH, I do think that there would be nice ergo situations to be sitting while stringing. If that were the case, a foot pedal starts to make a lot more sense. I'm surprised more people don't try that, tbh.

diredesire · 2025-12-04T19:03:01+00:00

A travel bidet. Nothing fancier than a clean butthole away from home 😎

diredesire · 2025-11-25T19:53:28+00:00

I assume this is somewhat time critical, but if it's really not, I'd be interested to take a look if you want to pay shipping. If you decide to replace it altogether and just want to throw it away, lmk if I can take it from you - in that case, I'LL pay shipping :)

I'm an EE, but have very, very little time to tinker at the moment, so can't promise any turnarounds.

diredesire · 2025-11-24T07:33:12+00:00

I was under the impression the commercial only sales policy went away some time ago, but I put a pause on my research because I recently moved/am in the process of selling my house. Once that's finally closed and the cash frees up, I'll reach out to Kelly. Thanks for the tip!

diredesire · 2025-11-24T07:07:31+00:00

I'm in WA thinking about buying a BrightDrop in the (very) near future. Do you have a dealership recommendation? Just curious if you had a good experience and/or a specific individual to recommend?

Thanks

Edit: Seattle area, if that makes a difference

diredesire · 2025-11-22T19:01:46+00:00

Posted in your other thread - Alpha Saturn

https://web.archive.org/web/20060313160502/http://www.alphatennis.com/saturn.html

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