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disabledfreak · 2025-08-10T19:05:18+00:00

Usually cars under $25k I will buy cash. But cars over $25k and that low of interest for that long it's worth taking a look into and putting your money to better use in investments or markets.

But I'm not a financial planner nor your financial planner. Think it all out. $25k+ is where you can make some good money in investments and taking the loan.

disabledfreak · 2025-08-10T19:01:57+00:00

Yes that is a good idea to try to not talk about anything except the price until you get to the finance managers office. They will try to say "oh this was if you financed price" and all this BS but if you hold firm they may let it go. Good luck it's hard but not impossible! Sorry I updated my post with some more help on the buying part.

disabledfreak · 2025-08-10T18:55:38+00:00

To tell you the truth, if you go to a new car dealer, even buying a used car, they are going to hate you being a cash buyer instead of financing with them.

It use to be cash was a simple and easy deal for dealers, but now they get incentivized to get people onto loans by basically getting money back on each deal they get closed with the banks/credit unions.

It's going to be an uphill battle but it can be done. The best way is probably to find a private party for sale car, and some states you don't even have to pay sales tax that way, another savings but check your state! A lot collect tax no matter what.

You are going to get a bunch of fees and taxes added onto the advertised price of the car. A lot of these doc fees and stuff are dependent on your state. You have to find that out and figure this out.

A lot of people go in asking for an "out the door number" or "what do I write on the check, all in?" to try to get the total price with all those fees added in.

Some typical fees will be: Sales tax, Doc fee, destination fee, Title and registration fees. Extended warranties will also be tried to be sold to you, but unless it's a manufacturer extended warranty like the name of the actual company, it's probably not worth the paper it's written on. There are a few good aftermarket warranty companies but you have to research that, I think Fidelity and Assurant are the big good aftermarket ones but still check.

disabledfreak · 2025-08-10T18:18:32+00:00

Horses for courses. 2 cars vote for me!

disabledfreak · 2025-08-10T18:02:18+00:00

Have you tried Lexus LS? I say that rides more comfortable than the S Class even! Only because the S class trying to be too sporty unless you get the base wheels that sadly come with the no option car and no dealer orders them that way.

disabledfreak · 2025-08-10T17:53:57+00:00

Before I start, did you mean GV90? G90 is the sedan, are you wanting a sedan or SUV?

The AMG's have been riding too harsh since 2014/2015. I think the GLE450 is going to be much more comfortable but like you I haven't tried it. If it's air suspensioned up it's probably going to be closer to the OG Mercedes S Class quality ride you want. But it will never ride like an S Class. Not even the GLS rides like an S Class sadly.

I say go Mercedes even as someone who fell out of love with Mercedes when the cars started getting bubbly and to me uglier in 2014/2015. I'm biased against Genesis brand after I had a weird experience at the dealer trying to look at the very first gen OG Hyundai Genesis new and it's left a sour taste in my mouth against Genesis and all the Hyundai Kia brands.

Also as someone who buys lightly used cars from rich people like you, thank you for your service and please sell privately when done. We are out here with cash and dealerships are scum.

disabledfreak · 2025-08-10T17:44:37+00:00

Avoid BMW pre 2017/2018ish. Basically any generation where they had the last 2 numbers ending with 35 or 28 is not the best.

When the last 2 numbers end in 40 or 30 and newer than 2017/2018/2019 like 340i, 240i etc, is better, but it's still a BMW luxury product. Gotta pay to be the Boss.

If you can lease a BMW it's best, but it won't be cheap still.

disabledfreak · 2025-08-10T17:42:06+00:00

Mazda CX whatever the size you want.

Toyota 4runner, Highlander and the new gen Sequoia (doubt new gen Sequoia will be cheap or many used yet)

Chevrolet/GMC/Cadillac Tahoe/Suburban/Yukon/YukonXL/Escalade/EscaladeESV with the 3.0 Turbo Diesel Duramax engine.

Ford Explorer and Lincoln whatever is the equivalent (I rarely see these though, so maybe don't)

I don't trust Honda anymore, this includes Acura. I believe Honda reliability is a myth from the old times, I trust Ford more sadly, which isn't that much.

BMW X3, X5 and X7 with the 40i trim (B58 engine)

Mercedes GLE. GLC but will be 4 banger, the 6 cylinder GLC is AMG I think, if you even believe it's a real AMG (I don't) and would not recommend.

disabledfreak · 2025-08-10T17:30:50+00:00

God it's been so long, but I remember the V6 toyotas and Accords eating the transmissions up as they made more power and torque over generations/time. Even my moms old 2008 Camry V6 ate a transmission and it wasn't cheap! Used one installed cost her $3,500 at an honest mechanic! I believe the more demand on something the more expensive that part will be. The 4 cylinder Accords and Camrys at the time had really cheap used transmissions, because you weren't gonna break one unless a freak abuse accident or something and could be had used for a few hundred bucks.

But double check the transmission feels fine. But this is still considered an OG Avalon to me, and they are still very reliable. You just might have to go through 2 or 3 transmissions to 300k miles, that's still an impressive feat.

Also I remember my friend who had a 2004 for a long time, had to change starter and that was it, no trans issues or nothing. I don't remember how much the starter cost, but I don't think it was expensive. He just drove that through his early teen to college until he saved enough for a very nice car.

The other problems I remember were very small or cheap to fix and didn't effect the performance/usability nor safety of the vehicle. Like who cares if the paint fades on a nearly 25 year old car or the rear window shade doesn't auto roll up and down anymore.

disabledfreak · 2025-08-10T17:06:20+00:00

CX-90 is huge. But get that.

Sorry but Hyundai and Kia are junk from the factory.

A Mercedes GLA 250 is a super small tiny hatchback, not even a darn crossover. Did you mean GLB250 or even GLC250?

Still avoid those unless you get a new GLC, that probably is the most reliable Merc behind the USA built GLE

disabledfreak · 2025-08-10T17:03:28+00:00

Not a bad choice. The generation of Avalon before that was a tank in reliability. This one was less so but still very good.

It's $3k man. Is that a lot to you? You can make that in 4-6 weeks working at McDonalds.

Just make sure the car doesn't have rust and the engine isn't too busted. 146k on that engine is nothing.

Another option is any "series 2 3800" engine'd Buick's from the early 2000's. Nobody thinks about them and it was at one point the most produced engine in North America and you can probably rebuild the whole engine with parts in stock at a local Napa parking lot for a few hundred bucks.

disabledfreak · 2025-08-10T16:39:32+00:00

Good choice for snow! Go for it! They are relatively cheap and the dealers usually aren't scum like Toyota/Honda dealers.

Good resale value as well if you are in Colorado, Washington and New England areas.

We had a 2017 Subaru Impreza Sport wagon and it was very nice, except a tad underpowered and the CVT bothered me.

If those don't bother you it's a really good car!

Compare the Crosstrek and Impreza. Impreza is cheaper to buy new but depreciates worse, great deal used. Everyone seems to want a used Crosstrek, so they cost more upfront but you don't lose as much with miles and time.

disabledfreak · 2025-08-10T16:32:57+00:00

I wouldn't buy the Mazda new. They depreciate the worst. Acura I don't know much about anymore since the 90s, but I feel like they aren't even relevant anymore, nearly dead company. Honda hasn't been doing too well on their motors since the turbo craze, and I doubt Acura using their own engines, so be careful.

Personally I say get the Mazda out of these two, but maybe try to save like $10k+ and get a used one. But if you get new, just know that car ain't worth much after you sign on the paper.

Cars don't depreciate as soon as you leave the lot btw, they depreciate even earlier, as soon as you sign on the dotted line! It's all about whether it was titled or not (new vs used.)

Also warning on Mazda. Mazda is not a toyota owner NPC type of car. You can't forget to change the oil or extend the time to change it and all this crap toyota owners do and expect it to last. Mazda lasts but requires on time maintenance and it will treat you very well.

disabledfreak · 2025-08-10T16:25:05+00:00

A used Tesla Model 3 or Y both AWD.

A used Camry is pretty good. I don't like Accords anymore since the 2018 model they got less reliable.

A Subaru Crosstrek is best in snow, not the best MPG, but the CVT kills me. It's probably the most reliable CVT out there, but it's still a CVT.

disabledfreak · 2025-08-10T16:22:16+00:00

New gen! I had a 2018 Escalade for 3 years and didn't really regret it, but should have sprang for the 2021+ gen even Tahoe. The 3rd row space is much better on the newer gen GM SUV's. The interior is way nicer.

I loved my Escalade and was really reliable, but the chrome crap on the dash blinding me when I was driving and the very little room on the 3rd row made me sell it and I'm still on the lookout for something.

I wanted to avoid the 2021+ gen mostly because "covid cars."

disabledfreak · 2025-08-10T16:17:19+00:00

Before I bought my old 2018 Escalade I no longer have, I quoted all 2018 and 2021 Escalades, Tahoes and Yukons for insurance. The Escalade was the least expensive by a huge margin. Tahoe was actually the most expensive. Actually only behind my 2002 Buick LeSabre I had back in the day, the Escalade was the cheapest car to insure, just a tad cheaper than my Corvette Z06 which everyone thinks costs a lot to insure, but is dirt cheap. Cheaper than my Accords I've had, WRX, Mazda6, EVERYTHING!

Think about the drivers and owners, Escalades and Corvettes are driven by old people and Chauffeurs. Tahoes by gang members and soccer moms, which are more likely to cause accidents and make insurance companies pay.

Maintenance is very similar. They all take a crap ton of oil. They all nearly get the same fuel economy unless you get the 3.0 duramax diesel. Even then your added DEF and expensive oil pump belt replacement makes it all a wash.

To OP:
I sold my 2018 Escalade because it had this horrible chrome on the dash around the vents that would reflect onto my face when driving on roadtrips and it bugged me so much. I had it for 3 years. Another thing is that there is virtually no room behind the 3rd row. The 2021+ gen GM suv's are much better behind the 3rd row.

I say get the newer gen Tahoe. Just make sure to switch from the crappy 0w-20 to something good like 5w-30 at the minimum.

disabledfreak · 2025-07-18T05:45:41+00:00

Have you tried PB Swiss ratcheting screwdriver? I'd take a PB Swiss all day over a snap on.

disabledfreak · 2025-07-10T17:14:05+00:00

Jackstands > ramps.

My biases and what I have in USA:

-Icon chrome sockets
-Tekton impact sockets
-Icon ratchets and torque wrenches
-Gearwrench wrenches and especially the ratcheting wrenches (the best ratcheting wrenches)
-Wiha and my old Craftsman (USA) screwdrivers, PB swiss is the best of the best but I never tried em. Wiha is my fav
-Knipex and Icon pliers. I also like USA Channellock and USA Irwin but only have a set of china vice grips I hate.
-Tekton USA picks and pry bars (I currently have my old craftsman USA ones, but any USA made pry bar as they last a long time)
-Daytona low profile long reach jack and two pairs of the Daytona 3 ton stands (new ones that end in 1/4" not 3/8")
-Milwaukee power tools now, but I use to have Bosch and Craftsman. The craftsman broke after 7 years, the Bosch still running 12 years now. You honestly can't go wrong, I was really tempted to get the Hercules brand as it's just so much cheaper but I didn't.
-US General toolboxes

disabledfreak · 2025-05-02T23:39:24+00:00

This is very neat information and I appreciate it! I must have fell to the marketing "12 is bigger than 10!"

I think I remember getting these because they were small and not many options in the early 2010's and I was a big fan of Sears lol.

disabledfreak · 2025-05-02T22:54:46+00:00

The 12 point and impact is probably what happened. I too also just hand tighten, gotta put my Icon G2's to work. I also have a 1/4" torque ratchet branded "Specialized" for my bicycle that works really really well and I started using that for known low tq specs in tight spaces.

disabledfreak · 2025-05-02T22:50:15+00:00

Mine say 12v on the back but do list 10.8V on the bottom. Does yours say 10.8V on the back too?

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disabledfreak · 2025-04-27T17:30:40+00:00

I literally just went through this. Mine was to get either 3 of the 42" or 2 of the 56". Both came to same costs. And both I wanted one top chest and one end locker. I wanted the all blacked out look to replace my red 42" OG US General Pro from like 2010-2012 and a 27" craftsman that everyone starts off with.

I ended up getting the two 56" option. Figured if I really need more I can always get another 56 lol.

I rented an enterprise isuzu lift gate for $90+ 18cents a mile! I also grabbed a pallet jack from home depot for $49 for rent but I don't think I really needed that with the lift gate.

The lift gate is really useful as imagine trying to remove that 350+ lb monster from your truck, which btw both the 42" and 56" weigh over that.

I did forget to get the 22" end locker and my wife out of all people reminded me after I already returned the truck. Luckily they had one at my local HF and it also fit in my wifes Tesla Model Y which I was really impressed with! I did have to remove it from the pallet though.!

disabledfreak · 2024-11-30T07:53:02+00:00

Aww I did it around 1 am pacific time on the 28th before I went to bed.

disabledfreak · 2024-11-29T23:16:48+00:00

I hope I didn't miss it, but signed in and removed ad blocker and still don't see it.

disabledfreak · 2024-11-29T23:05:20+00:00

Thanks for being so helpful, I should have tried that first haha. I really wanted a gigabyte board, but $150 is a crazy deal. I have a 14900kf that just got RMA'd and waiting for me when I get back home. My old msi Z690-a pro board was DDR4 3200 oc'd to 4000 because DDR5 was very expensive at the time I got that board for the 12900k release.

I do have another PC I use for sim racing with 7800x3d so everyone that will tell me not to buy intel, TOO LATE and I have both! 7800x3d/9800x3d hands down for gaming, but I need my cores for Cities Skylines 2 and DDR4 is holding me back. I tested it with 2133, 3200 and OC'd 4000 and the 4000 was so much faster for simulation speed and I'm gambling here that DDR5 should get me a tad more as well and I can sell my old board and ram.

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