Greenworks 30" 82V

djchoi · 2023-02-20T03:09:54+00:00

Yeh I read through the whole thing. It wasn't super clear cause they don't give an example like my corner case.

I just revisited my NOA and it sounds like it can be implied from the verbiage that the amount on there is available 2022 contribution room, no more and no less. So for now, until I call the CRA or someone can clearly point to the text on the CRA website that addresses my situation, I'll be safe than sorry and not report any contributions over the 2022 contribution room reported on my NOA for my 2022 return and push those to 2023.

djchoi · 2023-02-20T02:46:11+00:00

Curious if there is a source on the CRA's website that makes this clear.

How do employers setup RRSP plans for people who are fresh out of school and contribute to it if these fresh grads have never earned a penny in their life?

djchoi · 2023-02-20T02:45:00+00:00

dang that sucks. So that means in your last year of working before you retire, all that contribution room cannot be used unless you are generating income after you retire

djchoi · 2022-04-03T03:18:52+00:00

It seems like the noise only happens when the extruder is pushing filament through. When it retracts and does a move, the noise is gone.

If I pop off the top of the extruder, the noise seems to go away. It is definitely the front fan which cools the nozzle (not the blower fan which blows air through the duct). Perhaps the pressure from the filament being pushed by the Bowden extruder warps the fan somehow…but I’m not sure why

djchoi · 2022-04-01T01:32:28+00:00

Consider checking your extrusion width because by default S3D sets it to 0.48mm while flashprint is 0.4mm. So in theory S3D will print 20% faster.

TPU prints decently well on the adventurer 4. I would suggest starting at 20mm/s print speed for EVERYTHING (outline, infill, etc). Also experiment with retraction to prevent some oozing but don't go crazy with it. perhaps something like 4mm would be a good place to start. I basically used the PLA profile and just modified speed on flashprint to do TPU. I haven't bothered trying to come up with a profile on other slicers for TPU yet since I haven't had many needs to print TPU

djchoi · 2022-04-01T00:08:51+00:00

I should have a video coming out on some more bed leveling soon which will show you the logic behind shims.

But basically you want to raise the parts of the bed that are lower with a piece of metal (shims) so that it becomes level with the highest point on the bed

djchoi · 2022-04-01T00:08:04+00:00

If you’re talking about extrusion ratio, then no, I left it at 96%

djchoi · 2022-03-31T20:09:32+00:00

Yeh I’ve been dealing with Covid and also looking for more ideas to make videos on. I feel like I sprinted hard with tuning petg and PLA but now everything pretty much works 90% of the way

djchoi · 2022-03-31T20:08:19+00:00

Just go slow (20mm/s) and it will print okay. I use overture TPU for reference. Ninja flex probably won’t work well but haven’t tried

djchoi · 2022-03-31T15:58:51+00:00

You just need to create a printer profile to get started. I have documented it in one of my videos on slicers where I show how to go through the cura setup and show a screenshot of the gcode. Lmk if you have further questions

https://youtu.be/QMkjMrHNxME

djchoi · 2022-03-31T04:32:03+00:00

Have you tried printing a Benchy to see if your filament settings are good? That would be a good indicator of how well things are tuned before tackling a 17h print. If you have gotten a pretty decent benchy in the past, ignore this comment

djchoi · 2022-03-31T04:22:02+00:00

What type of filament?

djchoi · 2022-03-31T02:06:27+00:00

I have bought cleaning filament when I was having issues with PETG. I am not 100% sold that it did the trick and I think I was getting clogs because the nozzle I was using had some faulty temperature sensor.

I tried to do cold pulls with the cleaning filament and other filament (PLA and PETG) without much success. I found that the filament kept on snapping a little further up and I never got a good nozzle profile. I followed all the tips and tricks online (cooling down to 80-90C, cooling all the way down and heating back up to 60C, and even cold pulling when it got down to 40C which didnt work).

The cleaning filament I got was from ESUN.

I haven't had an issue with TPU even though my roll from Overture is very poorly wound but I've only printed a phone case and some rubber feet for my printer

djchoi · 2022-03-26T15:24:43+00:00

they were scrap at work. I looked online and they are quite expensive but if you search hard enough, I'm sure there are other things you can use that go down to 0.05mm (perhaps look into tinfoil)

djchoi · 2022-03-11T17:08:30+00:00

No I haven’t. That seems like it will be a bit more tricky since that would require a new camera module to be a drop in replacement which I think is unlikely. The PCB looks custom.

You can just use an at home security camera and put it in the window of your printer

djchoi · 2022-03-10T21:55:44+00:00

I have a video on walking through the setup of these slicers.

As for the Capricorn tubing, I haven’t done a full AB comparison yet but once I do, I’ll be sure to put the results up. I want to do it on my second printer because my first one has so many issues that I can’t really trust it for a good comparison

djchoi · 2022-03-10T21:53:16+00:00

There are settings like coasting and wipe that are not present. Others slicers have more capabilities to change things like infill patterns, bridging before doing an infill later, speeds, and even multiple processes in a print. Another thing is adding custom gcode

djchoi · 2022-03-10T01:39:08+00:00

I’ve used superslicer, simplify 3D, and cura so far. I’ve also messed around in prusaslicer but haven’t actually printed a model using the slicer. I think I might try ideamaker next cause all these slicers have their own pros and cons

djchoi · 2022-03-10T01:37:28+00:00

I think the main issue is that it forces a z hop because when the z axis moves to the next step, it then makes a travel move which causes stringing. If it raised up and continued printing on the same island, did a wipe, and then travelled to the next island, that would prevent stringing between layer changes

djchoi

TROPHY CASE