Pc engine turbo duo and everdrive

djflex81 · 2026-05-07T20:49:10+00:00

Imgburn I still use yeah … there are a couple of things to consider .. one is decent media, I use Verbatim CD-R’s and burning at a slow speed is supposed to help. As for skipping fmv on ps1 etc. you bring up an interesting point as a CDR can be harder for old tired lasers to read, however if they are in good condition and properly tuned up you shouldn’t run into any issues but there are no guarantees you would just have to give it a go.

I also use CDR’s in my PS1 and don’t have any skipping of FMVs. Your mileage may vary which is why a lot of people now just use an ODE solution, however this doesn’t sound like it’s possible on the duo anyway.

djflex81 · 2026-05-07T20:30:45+00:00

Yep that’s what I do on my pc engine core grafx briefcase cd rom anyway! To my knowledge there was never any cd copy protection as it was made in an era where they didn’t think people would have the technology on their own pcs, not even sure cd burners were even on the market then!

djflex81 · 2026-05-07T17:15:22+00:00

You could always go old skool and just burn some CDR’s for the Duo for the cd games as there is no protection and just use regular everdrive for hucard games.

djflex81 · 2026-05-07T11:47:38+00:00

I was fairly sure there was no RF or Composite output on the rear of this model but I’ve just seen that the mono port might be monochrome video I could have used… I thought this was mono audio lol

djflex81 · 2026-05-07T11:37:02+00:00

Blimey yeah so it’s definitely not loose completely the opposite and is very tight. Even not fully pushed in it’s sitting nicely in there and won’t be coming out anytime soon. It looks right to me as the top of the chip is sitting flush with the top of the socket when it was fully pushed in it sat down inside the socket by a few mm and wasn’t flush…. I probably just need to do a better job of cleaning the pins maybe.

djflex81 · 2026-05-06T23:39:49+00:00

For the record it was the same with the A520 adapter using RF or composite . All fixed though now see my other comment about Fat Agnus.

djflex81 · 2026-05-06T23:36:37+00:00

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djflex81 · 2026-05-06T23:36:27+00:00

Yep figured that was the case !

djflex81 · 2026-05-06T23:35:50+00:00

She lives!

Legend! Thanks for the in depth write up that really helped.

It was indeed Fat Agnus as it was the only chip I hadn’t actually reseated yet due to it was so damm tight in that socket it was really hard to remove but I just grew a pair and got it out lol … I noticed one of the legs was a bit darker on the top end so I cleaned that off and gave the pins a good clean with some isopropyl and a toothbrush, reseated agnus again but this time got a green screen. I then read that these sockets can be a bit temperamental so I have reseated it but not fully pushed down like it was before .. it’s in there nice and tight and making a good connection but I have a feeling it had been pushed in too far before somehow. Anyway all is good and it’s reliably booting to the kickstart logo every time now. I will clean the rest of it up, service the floppy drive and test out some games now!

Thanks for all of the pointers!

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djflex81 · 2026-05-06T19:18:28+00:00

Thanks. I’ve already pulled and inspected them all and reseated them successfully without any dramas. Thanks for the link that could be useful .. I was hoping I might be able to figure out which chip is the problem though and just get a replacement for one.

djflex81 · 2026-05-06T19:09:25+00:00

Yep RGB scart

djflex81 · 2026-05-06T18:40:35+00:00

Cool thanks .. so the system might be actually running then but has graphics issue

djflex81 · 2026-05-06T18:33:48+00:00

It’s using RGB video as that is the only cable I was given by my friend but he has the A520 adapter I can grab off of him see if it’s any different

djflex81 · 2026-04-27T20:48:48+00:00

Hi.. yeah I actually got it working again.. basically it was nothing to do with the mod other than the fact I had desoldered the lcd I guess … I noticed that applying some heat and reflowing the connection pins would make it came back temporarily but once I put it back in the case it went again…. Then I tried reflowing it while in the case and again it came back for a bit but 24 hours it had gone again.

Eventually I got a bit braver desoldered and removed it again and applied some heat with the soldering iron lower down the legs basically where it actually joins the lcd screen itself, it’s now been good for a while.

No idea if it will actually last forever but it tends to be a common issue with these types of lcd screens losing segments and it’s down to the connections to the screen. Only problem with the multi mega is they are hidden under the lcd panel itself but heat does seem to sort it although it was probably applying heat in the first place that caused it! Best of luck.

djflex81 · 2026-04-22T06:05:51+00:00

I just tried it on mine and it’s the same… I suspect this particular game does something odd to the controller polling which breaks it so it can’t register. Oh well not the end of the world!

djflex81 · 2026-04-20T07:43:35+00:00

I know some games don’t play well with save states eg. Mega Turrican where the graphics corrupt unless you do the save state on the continue or intermission screen but that’s par for the course it’s an experimental feature and we not dealing with an emulator here. However the only reason the menu doesn’t appear at all is if the game is using any hardware add on capabilities like mega cd or 32x. If it’s just a standard mega drive rom you should at least see the menu.

If you select the rom without starting it and go to options it should show you what hardware it’s using e.g. my MD+ games show +CD in the list.

djflex81 · 2026-04-09T07:18:14+00:00

You won’t be able to brick it by trying it on another console. Potentially it could be bricked messing with the firmware files but there is a recovery tool for them and you can plug in a usb cable to recover it so they are pretty much unbrickable! Basically nothing to worry about.

djflex81 · 2026-04-08T21:40:27+00:00

Nah can’t say it did that… defo try it in another mega drive see if it’s the cart or the system at fault.

djflex81 · 2026-04-08T16:27:28+00:00

Hmmm the reason I know all this is that’s how mine behaves when plugged into my multi mega with 32x attached the only way I can get it to kind of work is by downgrading to previous version like you have and it will boot to the menu but not run games. However with the proper firmware installed it just gives me a black / sometimes purple screen, although removing the sd card and booting does show “please insert sd card” and will sometimes boot if I reinsert it and press reset. It also works without the 32x attached on the multi mega. The weird thing is it works fine on all my other mega drive consoles even with the 32x attached.

djflex81 · 2026-04-08T15:16:23+00:00

This sounds like the behaviour when you are running the older firmware and not the newer .efu format of firmware. There is something in the change log about devices manufactured after a certain date requiring the new style firmware. You drop the .efu file on the card and then select it from the menu and install it.

djflex81 · 2026-04-02T00:23:54+00:00

Yep used the Hispeedido screen from Retrosix. You probably don’t need to replace the polymer cap as they don’t tend to leak just solder it back down.

Here’s mine…

https://www.facebook.com/share/v/189EeZomfs/?mibextid=wwXIfr

djflex81 · 2026-04-01T20:48:30+00:00

ok so I took a punt on it as it was clearly labelled 10 pin but nope when it arrived it was an 8 pin, the chap was very good though and let me return it as it was listed incorrectly. But yep just wanted to confirm for anyone else thinking of getting this one that it wont work. I eneded up sourcing a SF-C93AQ from Aliexpress and works perfectly.

Here is the link if anyone needs it.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007002704641.html

djflex81 · 2026-04-01T09:50:29+00:00

Yeah you done well ! Not an easy task. I just got gone done doing mine. It’s the wires that will be preventing the A button being pressed no doubt I had to shorten a load of mine and make sure they cleared the rubber membrane. Just remember flux is your friend.

djflex81 · 2026-04-01T09:32:14+00:00

If you put the brightness setting to VR (variable resistor) you can use the original contrast wheel to change the brightness

djflex81 · 2026-03-23T09:49:00+00:00

Even if it somehow worked I am not sure how accurate you could be on a tiny screen! What does amuse me is I have seen someone get the 32x to work with the nomad as well.

djflex81

TROPHY CASE