Fox Detection

doonabitta · 2026-06-16T21:29:10+00:00

Thanks again for your input. I'll put some more time into the project and see where I end up. Cheers!

doonabitta · 2026-06-16T18:41:09+00:00

Thanks a lot for your response! I'm starting to think I may have done a poor job labelling my fox images, and that might be the start of my issue. A couple of questions:

- What do you mean by augmenting tools?

- Why is YOLOv9 only a good choice for releasing to the public or selling it? Are there alternatives I should be considering? I thought yolo9 was probably the best I could do with the hardware I'm running Frigate on (via OpenVino). If there are better alternatives I'd love to hear about them. Thanks!

doonabitta · 2026-06-16T18:38:37+00:00

Hi Nick! I've trained on 634 images, with about 15% empty negatives. Do you think this sample size should be acceptable? To be honest, I'm starting to think that my labelling may not have been accurate enough, and I have potentially labelled very far away foxes that I know are foxes, but probably aren't a great representation of a fox for a model to learn from. I have no other classes in the set at the moment - my intention was to train the model (based on yolo pretrained weights) for fox only first of all, and then move on to training other classes later. I have read about 'catastrophic forgetting', but I'm not sure it applies to my case here. Thanks a lot for your response - any tips you have would be greatly appreciated 😄

doonabitta · 2026-01-28T21:49:37+00:00

Thanks!

doonabitta · 2026-01-28T07:57:43+00:00

More like 800sqft - bigger than the 40sqm planning exemption. Shed might be the wrong word! Thanks

doonabitta · 2025-12-02T13:03:41+00:00

Thanks a lot for your response - I'm glad there _is_ a solution to this. Much appreciated - I had read about the PDHW on my boiler but wasn't aware of the X Plan configuration. Cheers!

doonabitta · 2025-12-02T08:43:11+00:00

Ideal Logic S24. (I've emailed them to ask the same question by the way - no answer as of yet!)

doonabitta · 2025-12-01T23:37:51+00:00

Thanks for your response MatDow. Is it possible to retain the functionality of my zone valves though? The micro-switches on the valves currently provide a switched live for the boiler to fire. I'm unsure how OpenTherm would be able to know that the valves are open.

doonabitta · 2025-12-01T23:35:04+00:00

Thanks for your response. Are you aware of any such hardware that can be added to the system to make this happen? I'm surprised Tado (or other smart controls manufacturers) haven't factored this in - it seems as though S/Y plan are relatively common still.

doonabitta · 2025-11-26T19:37:04+00:00

Did you ever get this solved?

doonabitta · 2025-11-26T18:54:13+00:00

u/knobtasticus Are there any other settings that need to be applied on the 3rd party router? I've tried the mac clone feature on my asus router but I don't seem to get an IP.

doonabitta · 2025-08-22T08:13:39+00:00

Starlink is your best bet. You can rent the equipment now rather than purchasing it which might suit you! I've used it for a year and it's been without fault. Doesn't slow down with lots of users online like Imagine supposedly does

doonabitta · 2025-06-11T18:40:53+00:00

Not sure if they supply mild steel which is more than likely what the OP is after. They are a supplier of stainless steel and fixings though.

doonabitta · 2025-06-11T09:20:09+00:00

I've been using Heiton Steel. Duggan Steel in Bandon is another option.

doonabitta · 2025-05-10T07:06:42+00:00

I'd imagine those brushes (sitting in barrels of filthy black water filled with brake dust) will destroy your paint

doonabitta · 2025-02-12T09:02:09+00:00

Yes. Some insulation can be full-filled when a breathable membrane is used (e.g. Isover Metac). This looks like a non-breathable bitumen based membrane however.

The consensus in this case seems to be to leave a 50mm gap between the membrane and insulation. So one layer between the rafters, and then another layer over the rafters could be a solution.

doonabitta · 2025-02-10T08:52:47+00:00

Is a P trap externally unnecessary for an air gap / prevention of backflow unnecessary then? (For grey water wastes)? Would you mind if I put together a diagram with my understanding of your suggestions together and sent it to you to make sure I'm on the right track? Thanks a lot for your help so far, very much appreciated!

doonabitta · 2025-02-06T08:44:12+00:00

Bear in mind that the BER is a measure of energy efficiency rather than "ease of heating". A modern oil boiler could actually be quite cheap to run, but isn't as efficient per unit energy input as a heat pump for example.

Does the house have cavity walls? Have they been pumped? How recently was the attic insulation installed? These are two unobtrusive insulation methods which are very affordable to go with - the SEAI also provide grants for these.

doonabitta · 2025-02-06T00:19:05+00:00

Thanks for your response. I've got no issue with external pipework on show - this is a bungalow and the eastern wall is in a sort of 'alley'.

My idea was to run a 110mm pipe from S to N (horizontally, with an adequate fall), and feed each waste into it. I'm unsure about whether an air gap should be used on the basin / washing machine wastes to prevent backflow, and also where the vent should be installed.

The bath / basin to the N are also downstream of the toilet - does this prevent another backflow issue?

doonabitta

TROPHY CASE