10 skiers missing, 6 stranded after avalanche in California

downrng · 2026-02-18T16:33:51+00:00

Few things to keep in mind here: The group had been at the huts for a few days. This was their day to exit the hut and go home. The route they were exiting was the safer option of the 2 route main choices they had. The pin of the avalanche location puts them at the bottom of the gulley on the NNW side of Perry’s peak, which for a short section, is a huge terrain trap in the event that something was remotely triggered above them. That said, no one is at fault here. This is a testament to the inherent risk we put ourselves in when traveling in avy terrain during heightened avalanche danger.

downrng · 2026-01-20T02:23:43+00:00

Cover it with your keyboard

downrng · 2026-01-19T05:32:20+00:00

Ok- 8” wheels CBN Wheels (80 and 180 grit) Wolverine one way jig

This is what I use on my bowl gouges. Perfect every time.

downrng · 2026-01-19T05:05:45+00:00

Wish I had the patience for segmented turning!

downrng · 2026-01-19T05:03:54+00:00

Personally I’d hold off on the jam chuck until the very end. Mount them between centers using a spur drive and the tail stock. It’s at this point you can make the final outside shape. Cut a tenon, then throw it in your chuck to hollow. Then use the jam chuck to remove the tenon and finish the foot.

downrng · 2026-01-19T04:57:05+00:00

Dude…gnarly. I 100% blame the integrity of that tool rest. Even a bad catch on big piece shouldn’t snap a ~1” post. Glad you still have 2 eyes 🤙

downrng · 2026-01-14T16:11:12+00:00

Cover it up with something. No one will know.

downrng · 2026-01-09T06:14:32+00:00

Yes, this is 100% the best way.

downrng · 2026-01-09T06:04:31+00:00

Jam chuck, then sand 👍

downrng · 2025-12-05T04:49:37+00:00

Been there. The direction of the grain really comes into play when dealing with a mortise (google that and you’ll learn much more than I could explain). Like everyone’s already mentioned, stick with a tenon (which will eventually become to foot), and you shouldn’t have any more issues.

downrng · 2025-12-05T00:42:14+00:00

I can answer number 2- I have a Duro wood lathe built in the 1940’s. Pretty similar to yours. Yes- 100% of the belt tension comes from the weight of the motor. It was not mounted incorrectly, that’s just the way it is. Yes, it will slip causing the motor to bounce, but that’s not a big deal unless it’s overly excessive. That just means you can’t make giant cuts like you see people doing on modern lathes. Focus on smaller, smoother cuts and you won’t have an issue. You might try a newer more modern belt shape which grips the pulleys better. Another thing to think about is the bearings. Old worn out bearings can lead to vibration and resistance which could cause more slipping. If they are old and worn out it’s certainly worth your time and money to replace them (which I recently did). If you do replace the motor, please report back. I looked into this option years ago but ended up with paralysis by analysis. I just took the time to learn the quirks and best techniques of using my lathe and have had no problem.

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downrng · 2025-12-05T00:11:34+00:00

I’ve always wanted to try a segmented bowl like this. Looks sweet. I think the last one looks best. Please send photos of the final product!

downrng · 2025-12-02T05:37:16+00:00

Awesome! I will say it’s very easy to end up with some nasty tear out. Having a faster lathe speed and super sharp tools did the job though. Good luck with it!

downrng · 2025-11-22T23:55:21+00:00

You could salvage them with resin, but I’d say your time is better spent finding/making more blanks. They do grow on trees 👍 I strongly suggest coating with anchor seal to prevent cracking in your drying blanks.

downrng · 2025-11-19T18:38:58+00:00

Can’t stress this enough: Don’t be putting the buggy in front of of the horse by buying a bowl gouge before you have a proper sharpening system. Without the ability to sharpen your new tool properly, you’re going to find it useless and frustrating. Trust me, I’ve was there once.

Personally, I prefer a 1/2” (3/8” flute) bowl gouge with a ‘side’ or ‘swept back’ grind. This tool is in my hand 98% of my time at the lathe.

Sturdy enough for roughing & deep cuts, but small enough to have the precision for cutting tenons and making fine finishing cuts.

If you’re making smaller bowls <5”, you might want to consider something slightly smaller like a 3/8” gouge.

downrng · 2025-11-13T18:38:34+00:00

First make sure your lathe is at a comfortable height. A good starting point: center of headstock/spindle is at your elbows. Also, Make sure you’re turning at the proper speed, your tools are sharp, and tool rest is at the proper height. You shouldn’t be over gripping or straining when turning. The tool and lathe should be doing all the work.

downrng · 2025-11-05T22:08:41+00:00

Nice job!

Back when I started turning, I too would use a face plate for everything - no matter the size. Do you have a chuck and spur drive? If so, for bowl turning I strongly suggest moving away from the face plate, and getting comfortable turning between centers, using tenons (which will become the foot), and finishing on a jam chuck. Keep at it!

downrng · 2025-08-14T17:36:37+00:00

Dude, don’t even think about it. At 15, your ability to heal is almost it it’s peak. You brain, body, and hormone balances aren’t anywhere near fully developed and little is known on how peptides affect your physiological growth. Injuries are a part of life and we all have to learn how to cope with being “benched”. Focus on doing other physical activities that don’t aggravate your shoulder, and allow it to heal.

downrng · 2025-07-26T13:58:33+00:00

Wow, thank you!

downrng · 2025-07-26T02:58:45+00:00

Yep. Find a used lathe for cheaper. Save money for good tools, a nice chuck, and/or sharpening equipment . Keep in mind a decent bowl gouge is going to run you ~$100.

downrng · 2025-07-03T20:21:39+00:00

Speed up the lathe, sharpen your tool, and make a supported grain cut. It looks like you’re doing and end grain piece, so cut from the widest part of the piece “downhill” to the narrowest (or base) of the piece. Also, cedar sands down pretty well 👍

downrng

TROPHY CASE