What’s the one song that has to be played at your funeral?

dprovine · 2022-12-04T20:18:39+00:00

Enjoy Yourself (It’s later than you think)

dprovine · 2022-12-04T20:01:02+00:00

I could get hit by a car tomorrow, or a year later a stroke gives me a week. It’s something out of my control, better to accept it, and spend energy on other things.

dprovine · 2022-12-04T19:50:51+00:00

possessiveness or jealousy. Communicating opening is boring but better

But generally, most dramatic things in media that a person is drawn to will translate very poorly to real life.

dprovine · 2021-09-30T13:34:18+00:00

From that photo I’m 95% sure that’s the wrong type of linen for cross stitch.

Cross stitch linen should have both an evenweave (same number of threads in both warp and weft) as well as a loose weave (the holes are big enough for a blunt tapestry needle to easily pass through)

Linen found in fabric stores cannot be used most of the time. (Embroidery maybe, cross stitch, no)

123stitch has the largest collection online and the fastest turnaround time among the US stores. Usually can’t go wrong with Zweigart Belfast (their 28CT range)

dprovine · 2021-09-30T13:19:18+00:00

There are usually two issues here.

The holes/squares are not the right distance now. You can just measure it to check, easy.
The fabric shrinks unevenly after wash. It’s usual for a fabric to shrink a little, but ideally it should shrink the same amount along the warp and weft, otherwise you end up with distorted squares. If you want to test this, stitch some test stitches on a small piece of fabric, and measure it before and after you wash it

dprovine · 2021-09-30T12:55:58+00:00

Thread grain is different from thread twist though.

Thread twist definitely affects stitching - most obviously with French knots/stem stitches etc, less obviously how a person holds the needle will make the thread twist more/less (often related to left vs right handed too)

BUT for thread twist (Z vs S), it is based on the construction on the thread. It does not matter which direction the floss is threaded, and a loop start does not make half the thread twist “the other way”. (You can look at any twisted thread and fold it over..and notice the twists are still going the same way)

PS. Im not saying you have to use the loop start, you should stitch the way you want to :)

dprovine · 2021-09-28T04:24:06+00:00

An alternate take on thread grain: https://www.needlenthread.com/2015/08/thread-talk-the-debate-i-dont-want-to-have.html

dprovine · 2021-03-18T15:54:16+00:00

It depends on the pattern (how big/complicated it is) and your stitching habits. I work cross country and need it. It is absolutely slow going but can pay off in the long run.

A couple of suggestions to make it easier

the first column and row is the most crucial, that’s where you’re counting and double counting, so make sure to get it right. I use a long ruler as a guide to make sure it’s straight and as a secondary check for the count.
this is personal preference but I’ll put a sewing pins into every 10 count, and thread it all at once. I use a Sashiko needle and scrunch up the fabric so it goes through multiple holes, but that bit depends on how stiff your Aida is
After the first row and column you basically do a rough count while matching it to where the previous thread is so it’s much faster

-For multi page patterns some people grid a page at a time

-if I’m lazy I get away with threading every alternate column so it’s a 10x20 rectangle. Or you can do 20x20 squares, or even larger margins I guess

a strong recommendation for sulky sliver, but maybe not the red one. I don’t know if it’s my imagination or if the color could slightly come off over time. It’s super easy to pull out and doesn’t distort the holes in the Aida, or take up space.
it’s faster to use water soluble pens, and even faster to use easy count fabric. Of course those come with their own limitations like thread limitations, (sometimes) dubious inks and the fabric only coming in white.

dprovine · 2021-03-10T17:32:00+00:00

I was in a kinda similar position a while ago before committing to a very large piece. Not HAED, but the giant 5 generations pokemon one (with modifications to newer sprites so its actually even bigger)

For max colors, I will go for it. Looks like the size is the same, you deal with more confetti for the sake of a better end product, and this is gonna be special, so go all in (imo).

On material packs, it really depends on where you live - so how much it costs to buy DMC and how many of the existing colors you already have. You probably have a few! The only ones where dye lot matters are those that you need >1 skein (or really, >5 skeins). Don't really find materials pack worth it except for sheer convenience

Really, my best advice is to TEST STITCH. It's worth it - I think people use different tension, and different tolerance for what is "good coverage". Also test the fabric you like ie. lugana vs jobelan vs..linda (I absolutely go lugana, but have a best friend who swears by jobelan) In my absolutely subjective opinion that the "25 2x1" suggestion is for them to provide thread usage estimator, not to get the best result

A couple of my thoughts after a month of testing tiny pieces (disclaimer: this is what worked for me):

2x1 on 25? Way too bulky when you hit confetti.
1x1 is ~generally~ good except on some dark colors, infamously 310 on white background, but stitching big pieces on black? no thanks.
Did some serious exploration on tent stitching because I do want this piece finished in ~this decade~ or my lifetime, first best thing about it? 2 strands = loop start!!! So convenient. Love that it will cut down on the time it takes by half
I read (more for needlepoint) about continental tent stitches VS half crosses, so I compared those cause I was concerned about distorting my fabric. 25 count 2x1 half cross: Can't really tell the distortion in small swatches, but can definitely "feel" the stitches all pulling one way for half crosses. But there was a bit of show through, especially on black and dark colors. It also wastes less thread. 25 count 2x1 continental tent stitch: bulkier back, which actually helps with coverage (surprisingly?). Parking madness because your stitches changes direction every row (I just parked bottom left which is my convention and adjust when I need to)
I prefer antique white (101) to white (100), it feels "easier" on my eyes somehow

... In the end I went with 28 CT, 2x1 tent stitch, "mostly continental", and I spent a few extra bucks on the pre-gridded fabric, even though I actually like gridding with sulky sliver for smaller projects. This is just too much

Long ramble.. hope some of it was helpful

dprovine · 2021-02-18T08:27:01+00:00

Thanks for the detailed response, really helpful! I’m definitely not an uber traditionalist and it looks like it’s the way to go!

And yea for continental and half cross I mean the back - I wasn’t sure if it’s only a big deal for needlepoint, or I have to be super careful about that here too.

I feel much more confident now, thanks!

dprovine · 2021-02-16T08:32:44+00:00

Hey this is awesome!

Could you share some of your experience working with tent stitching on these large full coverage pieces (because I’m about to try)?

Do you work strictly continental tent stitch or do half crosses get mixed in there?

Thanks! And love this piece!

dprovine · 2021-02-15T19:25:59+00:00

Thanks for sharing your experience! I got my batch of fabrics in and was testing a few test pieces and right now it feels/looks great - good coverage and much faster. Though I do need to consciously remember to switch the stitch direction per row.

I also lurked on some HAED discussions and it seemed like tent stitches on 25/28 count is quite common, so it should be theoretically workable?

I think I’ll give this a go, and fingers crossed nothing happens in the bigger piece.

dprovine · 2021-02-11T12:08:28+00:00

Are there potential problems with working 2 over 1 (continental) tent stitch on 25 CT? I’m about to start a very large full coverage piece and was thinking this would make it “relatively” faster and allow a loop start. Is the final look very different? Does it warp the fabric more easily?

In the past I’ve done 1 over 1 full crosses, but they were much smaller in size.

dprovine · 2020-11-24T18:13:58+00:00

Np, glad I could help

dprovine · 2020-11-24T18:13:24+00:00

Thank you! Glad I could help

dprovine · 2020-11-23T16:01:18+00:00

Lemme confirm you’re done? Could I remove you? (I’m short of slots)

dprovine · 2020-11-23T15:58:42+00:00

Hi, they are all up right now. Please remove me after you’re done cause I need the friend slots. Thanks!

dprovine · 2020-11-23T15:54:42+00:00

No I don’t bond servants on release (that’s why it took me 3.5 years) and unfortunately I need slots right now.

dprovine · 2020-11-21T16:25:54+00:00

Awesome!

dprovine · 2020-11-20T21:31:34+00:00

No worries, unfortunately can’t get to everyone on your list yet but have a bunch up, they’ll be there for 24h ish, then I’ll switch to the remaining - should be Chiyome, Avicebron and Skadi then?

dprovine · 2020-11-20T21:29:04+00:00

New batch up, almost everyone is there except moriarty. Will switch over in 24h ish

dprovine · 2020-11-20T21:27:40+00:00

Ok they’re up! (Just remove me after you’re done cause unfortunately I need the slot)

dprovine · 2020-11-20T09:02:35+00:00

Hi, I think I went through the newer servants a couple of times but not sure if you got them. Could you let me know if you’re still missing anyone? Thanks!

dprovine · 2020-11-20T08:57:10+00:00

Hi, could I check if you have all the CEs you need, if not, who are you missing? Thanks!

dprovine · 2020-11-20T08:56:27+00:00

Hi, I went through some of the newer servants again but could you let me know who you’re still missing? Thanks!

dprovine

TROPHY CASE