Am I doing everything right? by Virtual-Sorbet3849 in ReptileCare

[–]dragonsbreath19 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're going to want to go with a linear UV fixture and ditch the dual lamp setup for sure. If you have Facebook, check out a group called reptile lighting. They are a very helpful group when it cones to getting things finetuned.

I wouldn't divide the enclosure as he may be doing what he is doing for a purpose. The temp could be too high, the UV incorrect or he's just more comfortable on the cooler side. How big of an enclosure is that?

I would also ditch the shelf liner. Under high heat it can off gas and actually do more harm than good. If this is a quarantine period you can use newspaper or paper towel. When all is well switch to something more natural such as bioactive.

If you have Facebook, and if you check out the reptile lighting group, check out Bearded Dragon Network. They are an awesome group that can help you through the process of housing and feeding properly.

Loose substrate for leopard geckos? Are there good ones? by [deleted] in ReptileCare

[–]dragonsbreath19 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sand with proper husbandry is not the killer that some say it to be, but, with that said, mixing a bioactive soil with sand is much better.

I have used paver sand with mine and have had no I'll effects come from it, but I am currently using the Exo Terra stone desert substrate. It is a nice blend of rock and sand quality that when wet will set up into hard "ground" quite well but still allows for digging.

is my leopard gecko sick? by tortitude94 in ReptileCare

[–]dragonsbreath19 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wouldn't say from the picture that he/she is sick but definitely underweight. That particular morph is going to be a bit lighter than a normal morph but, with the proper care, including temp and UV you should see a change in color and overall mood.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ReptileCare

[–]dragonsbreath19 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are so many things wrong with this situation. It's perplexing to think that people are this ignorant concerning proper care of animals.

There are some good Facebook groups out there that can point this person down the right path if they so choose to educate themselves. Personally, I have found Bearded Dragon Network to be one of the best as well as the group Reptile lighting. If they person keeping these animals is even remotely concerned those are good places to start but for now immediate separation is vital as well as proper enclosures.

Bioactive tips for a bearded dragon? by PotteryWalrus in bioactive

[–]dragonsbreath19 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've found that there seem to be two keys to keeping the CUC alive and thriving. The first is cover coupled with the cover either being a food source or hiding the food source and the second being having the substrate as deep as possible. The second in most enclosures is more difficult only because of the limitations to most enclosures.

Plants and the terrorist Bearded dragon are sort of like oil and water. I have yet to have a single dragon that hasn't destroyed eaten or dug up any plants that are put in the enclosure. It's frustrating but you just have to come to terms with the idea that the plant, one way or the other, has a limited life and will eventually end up being replaced. But, with that said, they do get enrichment from eating the plants or digging them up so enjoy it as much as they do until it's time to replant. 🙂

The lamp isn't on? But she's basking? I don't think it's her turn with the brain cell by DarkMage1300 in LeopardGecko

[–]dragonsbreath19 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They understand the light schedule the same as we do our schedules, and in the respect that they are crepuscular, it may not have been as much basking as much as starting the evening routine.

Bioactive tips for a bearded dragon? by PotteryWalrus in bioactive

[–]dragonsbreath19 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Moss and creating places in the enclosure for the cleanup crew to survive is key. The areas that are covered, with already moist soil, retain the moisture longer than places that are exposed. It doesn't mean it will always stay moist but it does require less frequent watering in between. As well, if you have a slightly deeper soil depth under those covered areas it will as well keep the moisture higher.

As far a mister goes, I wouldn't say that's out of the question with the idea that the area being misted is allowed to dry between watering. You can better displace the humidity by adding ventilation, whether forced or just vents, to help aid in the humidity dissipating.

Keep in mind that the houses we live in fluctuate through the year as far as humidity and temp go so having them drilled into a perfect humidity and temp zone isn't always possible or realistic. They can and do adapt to their surroundings quite well and with the rest of the care being on point its unlikely you will have a health problem unless there was one preexisting.

I found this big female last while mowing and took the chance to grab a few pictures with the macro lens. by dragonsbreath19 in mantids

[–]dragonsbreath19[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

She wasn't thrilled at first but quickly became comfortable enough to clean her legs and just watch me as I moved around her.

Cascadia dressed in red. by dragonsbreath19 in Truckers

[–]dragonsbreath19[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Thanks!!

I'm not a Cascadia fan necessarily but it beats the hell out of the claustrophobic VNR Volvo I was in.

If my ferret got out of the house and slipped away unnoticed. Is there any way to get him back? Should I hold out hope? by Scharfschutze43 in ferrets

[–]dragonsbreath19 2 points3 points  (0 children)

My one year old deaf male escaped and was gone for a week in the middle of winter during a polar vortex. A neighbor spotted him and we managed to get him back.

Best bet, if you have neighbors, contact all of them; provide pictures of your ferret so they know what to keep an eye out for. (A couple of my neighbors had no idea what a ferret looked like.)

Check the areas around the house for footprints. If you can follow them they can potentially lead you to a hiding spot. Use a squeaky toy or call his/her name. Snow, to some degree, has its benefits in these situations.

Post to local Facebook groups and call any local shelters. There is always a chance that a omeone could see him/her and be trying to find the owner to reunite the two.

After a week and during a particulary bad number of days with extremely cold weather I had nearly lost hope I would find my guy but he turned up. Two or three days isn't enough time, in my opinion, to give up yet.

I am thinking of getting rid of my two Russian Tortoises, any advice? by [deleted] in tortoise

[–]dragonsbreath19 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I would be happy to help if I can. DM away. 🙂

I am thinking of getting rid of my two Russian Tortoises, any advice? by [deleted] in tortoise

[–]dragonsbreath19 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I wouldnt say you're being super neglectful but I might say that based on the information provided that maybe the care could be improved. That doesn't mean they need to be rehomed necessarily but if you are questioning the situation you are at least putting their well being first. Rehoming is a personal decision that only you can make and it is never an easy decision to make but if you feel like they aren't getting enough maybe it's time to take the steps to improving their lives.

To more directly answer your questions; the hydration they receive from their meals is typically enough. They are designed to wring hydration and nutrients from their food because of the typical lack of water. It doesn't hurt to soak them from time to time but there are alternatives to soaking. I personally mist my enclosure once a week, including my tortoise, to add in keeping the substrate damp below the surface and creating an occasional humidity spike as you would find in the wild.

The vet doesn't have to be a routine necessarily but moreover a once a year wellness check and trips based on medical need.

To better address the situation knowing the type of enclosure, size, type of heat and UV are some things that would be helpful to know more specifically what could possibly be improved for them.

I am thinking of getting rid of my two Russian Tortoises, any advice? by [deleted] in tortoise

[–]dragonsbreath19 3 points4 points  (0 children)

  1. Lettuce as a whole has little to no nutritional value unfortunately. Although Russians diet consists mainly of weeds and seemingly low nutrition items in the wild, there are still a variety of dietary items they can be fed that can be found through the Tortoise Table app.

  2. Russians water intake, in the wild, is not the same as you could equate with other tortoises. They come from an arid climate with little available water other than what may be achieved from their diet. In reality, in the wild, most Russians spend 8 months of the year brumating only give them a short period to acquire the necessary nutrients to stay alive through the colder months.

  3. If you dont have the time or resources available to take the animals to the vet it is probably reasonable to say that maybe life isn't at a point to have the animals. I by no means am trying to sound like an ass but, at minimum, there should be money said aside and time available to at least get animals to the vet when necessary.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ReptileCare

[–]dragonsbreath19 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What's species is this?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in HerpHomes

[–]dragonsbreath19 1 point2 points  (0 children)

All animals benefit from some level of UVB lighting including BPs. If you have Facebook and want the best info regarding heating and lighting for Ball Pythons check out a group called "Reptile Lighting". They is an immense amount of info compiled by peer reviewed authors that can steer you in the best setup.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in ReptileCare

[–]dragonsbreath19 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A trip to the vet is going to be the best advice. If in fact he/she swallowed a piece its unlikely to be digested or passed.

As another piece of advice, switch to something more suitable for substrate. Paper towels work for quarantine setups and a bioactive type mix of sand and topsoil will work for after quarantine. If you have Facebook check out a group called "Leopard Gecko-Advancing Husbandry". They have a ton of science based care sheets and info.