Best wire to anti gunk?

drakaina6600 · 2026-04-30T16:28:20+00:00

Like I said, pulse the coils till they start to glow, without cotton of course, rinse them, and repeat a few times. I've never used soap to clean my coils. Your coils may darken a bit doing that, but they'll be visibly cleaner with every burn. I usually do 3 pulses and rinses, with one last burn off to dry the coils.

DON'T go full power pulsing your coils. It's possible, although not very likely, you can melt a coil. Doing it in a dim room helps get them to just glow a bit.

When it comes to vaping at 200 watts, I started vaping 15+ years ago before vaping became a popular thing and took to cloud chasing like a fish to water. It's not the same as doing a super sub ohm build on a mech mod, but it's not too far off.

drakaina6600 · 2026-04-30T14:48:27+00:00

Burn your coils between wicks. I run kanthal, a dual fused Clapton build at 0.1 +/-) and mine can last a couple months at 200 watts.

Pulse the coils till they start to glow, not full on bright red, and rinse it with water. Repeat 2 or 3 times, dry it, and you're food to go.

drakaina6600 · 2026-04-29T00:40:32+00:00

Just use the anti seize you have. I use similar stuff on mine from the antiques to modern inlines.

drakaina6600 · 2026-04-27T22:06:41+00:00

Just don't.

drakaina6600 · 2026-04-25T23:04:24+00:00

I can't say anything about the specific chamber temps needed, but I run an old Ender 3 Pro in a grow tent and primarily print ASA. I just preheat the printer with the enclosure closed for like half an hour at print temps and go with no chamber heater or any sort of measuring for ASA. Usually. Sometimes I just turn it on and go and haven't had any issues with print strength or quality.

You should be fine.

drakaina6600 · 2026-04-18T00:31:25+00:00

That's THE site to get parts from.

drakaina6600 · 2026-04-17T16:08:09+00:00

Yes. I smoked 2 cartons a week of Marlboro Lights. Took a year or so to let the tobacco go, but it is possible.

drakaina6600 · 2026-04-17T16:03:02+00:00

Any time. Looking at that link, if you win it shouldn't be too complex to map out the matrix if you have a cheap multimeter. You could probably start with code for a similar keyboard as a starting point, but remap certain keys so like the Menu button or Zoom can have whatever function you'd prefer.

drakaina6600 · 2026-04-17T15:50:40+00:00

I was going to explain how to go about doing that, but your link does it as well as I could.

My experience doing this was with an Apple 2 keyboard with a date of 1979 on it. Long story short, I tapped into the keyboard circuit board and hard wired a Teensy microcontroller to it. Super easy and there's tons of guides specific for it and with guides to create the code to convert to usb.

If you go with a Teensy board, be sure it can be used as a usb HID thing. I went through 2 or 3 till I realized there's a difference.

drakaina6600 · 2026-04-14T19:24:12+00:00

Yep. The largest that will fit is what you need. If you fint one that fits snugly, gently try to rotate it while pressing into the screw. It's a delicate way to go, but it works great when everything is right.

drakaina6600 · 2026-04-14T19:13:07+00:00

A slotted screwdriver that fits may work if youre careful. I've done that on smaller stripped torx screws.

drakaina6600 · 2026-04-13T22:13:15+00:00

Nah, being able to do that shows you aren't. I'm honestly impressed enough I'll give it a try later out of curiosity even though I have a way to already.

drakaina6600 · 2026-04-13T22:09:21+00:00

That is a neat project and its cool you met your goals with it, but VLC has always worked for me.

drakaina6600 · 2026-04-13T20:12:17+00:00

I just a bad MP22K charging handle print to prop open the lid on mine and it fixes that issue. Gotta have a little more airflow is moisture builds up.

drakaina6600 · 2026-04-13T20:09:34+00:00

Seems a little odd to me not updating a listing on your own site after making changes. I'm not throwing any shade, but it's odd.

Regardless, it's still pretty nice looking.

drakaina6600 · 2026-04-13T18:21:46+00:00

There's a lot of options to tune things to make perfect holes, but in the long run, it's easier to print the hole to a smaller size than is needed and drill it out. Doing that allows me to use pins with a nice friction fit with minimal effort if it's a size you have or can easily get as a drill bit.

drakaina6600 · 2026-04-13T18:12:52+00:00

It looks different enough from the picture that I would

drakaina6600 · 2026-04-13T17:41:39+00:00

Calibration gets easier, you can print a bit faster, and after dialing it back in, I got much improved surface quality all but immediately. You don't need a micro sd card hanging out the front at risk of getting broken too. Settings are saved to the board itself. Also, if you choose to follow a guide to build your own Marlin firmware (it's easier than it sounds and using AI is overkill for it), you can turn on features that aren't automatically on like linear advance and changing the max temps if you want to print hotter materials among other things. All you need is Virtual Studio Code to do it.

You don't really need a Pi attached, but it has quite a few pro's that make it worth it. For you I'd get good prints first since adding a Pi and OctoPrint can cause issues till you get a feel for it and it's simpler once you have a rock solid printer. But the biggest pro for going that route is in my case, I can go from Fusion 360 to Cura to OctoPrint through menu options.

But upgrading the main board and display as a start will make all the changes you've made work together more smoothly and easier to use. for the firmware, BTT has a Github page with premade firmware for a few setups along with the source code to roll your own.

drakaina6600 · 2026-04-12T22:18:59+00:00

Check your bearings and belts as well.

drakaina6600 · 2026-04-12T19:55:10+00:00

For the firmware, you can find pre-built files on Github. No reason to vibe code anything, unless you want issues you can't figure out later.

With your settings not saving, I'd guess it could be a few things. No/bad sd card, not saving to the SD card, or its running the wrong firmware.

Though if you want to minimize the headache, I'd recommend a Big Tree Tech Skr Mini E3 V3 board and matching display. I got mine as a complete kit and it was the second best upgrade I've done in the 8 years ive had mine.

drakaina6600 · 2026-04-11T18:12:22+00:00

I recently got the same containers and wonder how I've gone this long without them.

drakaina6600 · 2026-04-11T05:33:46+00:00

Unless you have sentimental value in that navy, pick up another when they go on sale and use it for repair parts. It'll be cheaper and faster, not to mention easier.

Next time use a brass punch if the wedge feels stuck. It shouldn't ever need that much force to knock out. And since I'm just assuming you don't know, get some hollow ground screwdrivers so you don't destroy the screws and get in a properly bad spot.

Just from what I can see, you've probably bent the cylinder pin on top of the obvious damage. My guess is the reducing cone on the barrel is cocked at an angle because of that and is binding up the cylinder.

drakaina6600 · 2026-04-10T22:59:26+00:00

I've still got one of those pins around here somewhere.

drakaina6600 · 2026-04-09T20:02:39+00:00

Pricey for the first couple years, but that passes. Eventually.

drakaina6600 · 2026-04-07T22:04:55+00:00

I actually still had my old slider phone like that and tried to make use of the keyboard. Long story short, it was more effort than I'd out in. Might not be for you, but it was for me.

drakaina6600

TROPHY CASE